Bangkok Green Edition

Despite being nicknamed the Big Mango, Bangkok is a sprawling concrete jungle that keeps growing every day. The skyline is dotted with skyscrapers and construction cranes as developers continue to build the city skywards. At almost all hours of the day, you can hear the incessant buzz of construction. Due to this, many visitors rarely spend time in Bangkok, opting instead for the mountain views of the north or the white sand beaches in the south. But to forego Bangkok is to skip out on the beating pulse of the country. It's where the traditional and the modern collide, and where you will get the truest sense of how Thais have always tried to blend the two into something uniquely their own.

These days there's a growing movement within the city to revive green spaces and expand urban agriculture in an attempt to counter-balance the malls and condos that are multiplying every day. For those of you who want to see a different, greener side of the Big Mango, check out these recommendations from The Little Greenhouse in the Big Mango.

WHERE TO EAT

Although Thai food has many meat-based specialties, if you’re vegetarian or vegan, or simply curious, there are a number of places to enjoy delicious meat-free options in Bangkok. In Thai, the word jay (rhymes with “hay”) means “vegan” while mung-saht-wi-raht means “vegetarian”.

Na Aroon Restaurant in AriyasomVilla (photo credit: Na Aroon Restaurant)

Na Aroon Restaurant in Ariyasom Villa
This delightful restaurant is within a charming boutique hotel nestled in a leafy oasis at the end of Sukhumvit Soi 1. The exclusively pescatarian menu (only seafood, vegetarian or vegan options) offers a dizzying array of Thai specialities that are often off limits elsewhere for vegetarians/vegans due to traditional ingredients of fish sauce or shrimp paste. Make sure to try the yum som-o (pomelo salad), tom kha gai (sour coconut “chicken” soup) and the massamun curry for an unforgettable meal.
Address:  65 Sukhumvit Soi 1, Klongtoey Nua, Wattana, Bangkok 10110 [MAP]
T: +66 2 253 8800
Nearest BTS: Nana Station

Barley Sushi at Rasayana Raw (photo credit: Little Greenhouse in the Big Mango)

Rasayana Raw Restaurant and Spa
In a city where temperatures are routinely above 35 degrees Celsius, it’s often hard to imagine eating anything other than fresh, light meals. Rasayana is the go-to spot. With only raw vegan dishes and loads of fresh juices, you will leave this place feeling revived. Personal favorites are the barley sushi, kale “coleslaw” salad and lemon cheesecake. They also have a spa with cleansing programs in addition to the usual massage offerings.
Address: 57 Soi Sukhumvit 39 (Soi Prom-mitr), Klongton-Nua, Wattana, Bangkok 10110 [MAP]
T: +66 2 662 4803
Nearest BTS: Phrom Phong Station

Suppaniga Eating Room
Suppaniga was among one of the first establishments in a recent trend of hip restaurants serving “grandma’s specialties”, meaning old-fashioned, home-style food. The owner of Suppaniga also opened the Somtum Der branch in NYC. Be sure to ask for their separate vegetarian menu. Their crispy fried tofu with Thai sweet and spicy curry is one of the most delicious things I’ve ever had. Wash it down with a refreshing Thaijito made with Thai basil and Chalong Bay rum from Phuket.
Address: 160/11 Soi Sukhumvit 55 (Thonglor), Klongton Nuea, Watthana, Bangkok 10110 [MAP]
T: +66 2 714 7508
Nearest BTS: Thong Lo Station

Suppaniga Eating Room (photo credit: Suppaniga)

Khao soi at Khun Churn (photo credit: Little Greenhouse in the Big Mango)

Khun Churn at EatThai
If you fancy a quick but tasty lunch while touring around the city, stop by EatThai food court in the basement of Central Embassy mall. Among the collection of stalls (all representing famous eateries from across Bangkok) is Khun Churn’s, which is 100% vegetarian. Try the northern Thai speciality of khao soi, a spicy and sour noodle soup topped with pickled onions and deep-fried crispy noodles.
Address: Central Embassy Mall, 546/4 Phloen Chit, Lumphini, Pathum Wan, Bangkok 10330
T: +66 81 642 3747
Nearest BTS: Phloen Chit Station

Seven Spoons (photo credit: Seven Spoons)

Seven Spoons
This veg-friendly restaurant has been featured as one of the top must-dine spots in Bangkok repeatedly over the past year. Located on the edge of Bangkok’s Chinatown, this small eatery is a charming, friendly spot to while away an evening. Though be prepared to fight over their mushroom fritti! Not only does the food delight the tastebuds, but it is as organic and locally-sourced as possible.
Address: 22-24 Chakkrapatipong Road (corner of of Jor Por Ror and Chakkrapatipong), Bangkok 10100 [MAP]
T: +66 2 629 9214
Nearest BTS: Ratchathewi + taxi

WHERE TO STAY

Bangkok has a hotel for just about any taste and budget. If you’re aiming to experience something different than a cheap backpacking spot on Khao San or a hotel chain, try one of these options that have a little local flair.

Ariyasom Villa
Centrally located not far from the Nana BTS station is this green oasis in the middle of the concrete jungle. This boutique hotel is quite a perfect retreat after a hot day of sightseeing.
Address:  65 Sukhumvit Soi 1, Klongtoey Nua, Wattana, Bangkok 10110 [MAP]
T: +66 2 253 8800

Phranakorn Nornlen (photo credits: Little Greenhouse in the Big Mango)

Phranakorn Nornlen
A quirky “green hotel” near old Bangkok’s Samsen area. All the rooms are modestly furnished and comfortable, with colorful, handpainted walls. There are no TVs. Instead, there are regular offerings of classes in soap carving, Thai cooking and sewing. Enjoy lunch at their rooftop restaurant and check out their urban garden.
Address:  46 Thewet soi 1, Phranakorn, Bangkhunprom, Krungkasem, Bangkok 10200 [MAP]
T: +66 2 628 8188

Urban garden at Phranakorn Nornlen

Room at Phranakorn Nornlen

SALA Rattanakosin Bangkok (photo credits: SALA Resorts)

SALA Rattanakosin
If you’re looking for something more upscale, try this boutique hotel located right on the Chao Phraya River. Simple but luxuriously furnished rooms with a direct view on Wat Arun, or Temple of the Dawn. Ideally located near Wat Po, Museum Siam and a number of good eateries, like Eat Sight Story.
Address: 39 Maharat Road, Rattanakosin Island, Bangkok 10200 [MAP]
T: +66 2 622 1388

WHAT TO DO

Tired of seeing temples? Can't bear another museum? Try some of these rejuvenating alternatives.

Floating Markets Boat & Bike Tour (photo credit: Grasshopper Adventures)

Bike Tour
Try an early-morning bicycle tour to discover hidden gems of the Big Mango. SpiceRoads or Grasshopper Adventures are two well-run tour operators in the city.

Grasshopper Adventures
Address: 57 Ratchadamneon Klang Rd, Phranakorn, Bangkok 10200 [MAP]
T: +66 2 280 0832

SpiceRoads Cycle Tours
Address: 45 (Sub Soi Pannee), Soi Pridi Banomyong 26, Sukhumvit Soi 71, Wattana, Bangkok 10110 [MAP]
T:  +66 2 381 7490

Khao Yai National Park (photo credit: Khao Yai National Park)

Khao Yai National Park
If you want to see some of the region’s wildlife, bypass the ethically-dubious Tiger Temple and elephant camps.  Located just a few hours’ drive outside the city, this UNESCO Natural World Heritage Site is a haven to diverse and rare wildlife such as wild elephants, gaur, Asiatic black bears and gibbons. Guided-treks and overnight camping are possible but plan early because advance permission from the park is required.  Look up the Khao Yai Nationa Park's website for more info on how to get there.

Siam Green Sky (photo credit: Bangkok Post)

Siam Green Sky
This experimental edible garden on the rooftop of the Siam Square shopping mall in central Bangkok is a must-see. Started by Chulalongkorn University, Siam Green Sky is a new pilot program in green space management and will serve as a learning centre for Bangkokians who want to learn more about urban agriculture.
Hours of Operation: every Wednesday and Saturday from 10:00 to 18:00 hrs., without charge. Guided visits only, divided into three rounds: 1) 10:30 to 11:30am ; 2) 2:30 to 3:30pm; and 3) 4:30 to 5:30 pm.  You can book a tour in advance by either calling +66 99 001 8514 or emailing siamgreensky@gmail.com.
Address: Siam Square One Shopping Mall, 254 Phayathai Road, Wang Mai, Pathum Wan, Bangkok 10330 [MAP]
Nearest BTS: Siam Station

Root Garden at Thong Lor (photo credit: Root Garden)

Root Garden
Another urban agriculture project, in the middle of Sukhumvit’s upscale Thong Lor neighborhood, offers visitors opportunities to get their hands dirty by helping water plants or feed animals. It’s run by a local NGO that advocates for efficient, small-scale and pro-poor land use in Thailand.
Open from 8 am to 8 pm, Tuesday to Sunday.
Address: Khlong Tan Nuea, in between Thonglor Soi 1 and 3, Watthana, Bangkok 10110 [MAP]
T: +66 85 825 2298
Nearest BTS: Thong Lo Station

Wat Po Traditional Medicine and Massage School (photo credit: Wat Po Massage School)

Thai Massage at Wat Po Traditional Medicine and Massage School
Instead of getting a massage at a spa or the hotel, try the Wat Po Traditional Medicine and Massage School. Wat Po has been a center for Thai medicine and massage for decades. Beware, traditional Thai massages aren’t always relaxing since they manipulate your limbs. Be sure to say jep noi if it hurts.
Address: 392/33-34 Maharach Rd., Prabarommaharajawang, Pranakorn, Bangkok 10200 [MAP]
T: +66 2 622 3551 / 2 622 3533

Globe-Trotting Contributors
Recommendations by Sara Lehman, founder of the Little Greenhouse in the Big Mango, currently living in Bangkok (Thailand)
Illustrations by Rafael Fernández & Marie-Adélaïde Mol, previously based in Singapore and currently living in Panama City (Panama)

Sara // Little Green House in the Big Mango

Rafael + Marie-Adelaide

Stopover in Dubai

Dubai is a great city to make a stopover if you’re traveling from the Americas to Asia (and vice-versa).  We stopped in Dubai for 2 days as we were moving from Singapore to Panama, and discovered that Dubai has far more to offer than we had expected.  Beyond its gigantic malls and exuberant architecture, Dubai has a fascinating history and a growing local art scene.  Our globe-trotting friends – Maru, Wolfgang and Andrés – who lived in Dubai, shared their favorite spots and helped us compose the following recommendations.

WHAT TO SEE AND VISIT

Burj Khalifa (photo courtesy of Arabian Business)

Burj Khalifa
Tallest man-made structure in the world, 830 meters (2,722 ft). To visit the Burj Khalifa, you can either go to the observation deck called At The Top, or go for drinks or tea at At.Mosphere (the lounge) in the Armani Hotel, which is located in the Burj Khalifa. The best time for both plans is 5-5:30 (sunset) because you will be able to enjoy the view both by day and by night.
Note: it is important to make reservations in advance!
Address: 1 Sheikh Mohammed bin Rashid Blvd, Dubai, United Arab Emirates [MAP]
Metro Station: Burj Khalifa/ Dubai Mall

The Dubai Mall (photo courtesy of Dubai Mall)

The Dubai Mall
Biggest mall in the world. Connects to At the Top in Burj Khalifa, to the Dubai Fountain and Souk Al Bahar. Don’t miss the aquarium, the Level Shoe District, the Fashion Avenue and Kinokuniya Book World (nice, huge, bookstore).
Address: Financial Center Road, Near Souk Al Bahar Bridge, DownTown Dubai, United Arab Emirates [MAP]
Metro Station: Burj Khalifa/Dubai Mall (Red Line)

Book World by Kinokuniya
Adddress: The Dubai Mall, Level 2, DownTown Dubai, United Arab Emirates [MAP]
T: +971 4 434 0111

The Dubai Fountain (photo courtesy of Dubai Mall)

Dancing Fountains/Dubai Fountain
Similar to the Fountains of Bellagio in Las Vegas, they are the world’s largest dancing fountains. You can see the Dancing Fountains from the Dubai Mall or Souk Al Bahar. The show schedule is as follows: 1 & 1:30PM (except Fridays: 1:30pm & 2pm) and every 30 minutes from 6PM to 11PM.
Metro Station: Burj Khalifa/Dubai Mall (Red Line)

Mall of the Emirates
Our favorite mall, not as modern or big as the Dubai Mall but much more manageable. Ski Dubai is located in the mall. The concept is cool (an indoor ski slope) but in our opinion, not a must.
Address: Al Barsha 1, Dubai, United Arab Emirates [MAP]
Metro Station: Mall of the Emirates (Red Line)

Mall of the Emirates (photo courtesy of Dubai Metro)

Souk Madinat Jumeirah
Reproduction of a traditional Arabian souk. Beautiful! A Must!  Great restaurants are also there, such as The Meat Co. (steakhouse).  Located at the heart of the Madinat Jumeirah Resort, the souk is open daily from 10am to 11pm.  To get there, you can take the Metro (Red Line) to the Mall of the Emirates Metro Station and take a taxi from there.
Address: Interchange 4, Exit No 4, Jumeirah Rd, Dubai, United Arab Emirates [MAP]
T: +971 4 366 8888

Souk Madinat Jumeirah (photo courtesy of Jumeirah)

Burj Al Arab (photo courtesy of Jumeirah)

Burj Al Arab
Its architecture is stunning however, the décor inside is very arabesque and in our opinion, a bit tacky.  Nevertheless, it is supposedly the most luxurious and only 7 star hotel in the world.  You can only go inside if you are staying there or have brunch/lunch/tea/dinner reservations.  For light snacks, afternoon tea or drinks, go to the Sky View Bar on the 27th Floor (be ready to spend money!).
Note: reservations are a must!  Best way to get there is by car/taxi/Uber.
Address: Jumeirah Beach Rd, Jumeirah 3, Dubai, United Arab Emirates  [MAP]
T: +971 4 301 7777

Dubai International Financial Centre (photo courtesy of Arabian Business)

Dubai International Financial Centre (DIFC)
Dubai’s financial centre.  Very trendy area at night.  The Ritz Carlton downtown is located here and there are a bunch of trendy art galleries and amazing restaurants such as Zuma, Roberto’s, La Petite Maison and Gaucho (all excellent, see additional details in the "Where to Eat" section below). 
Address: Sheikh Zayed Road, Dubai, United Arab Emirates [MAP]
Metro Station:  Financial Centre (Red Line)

Below are a few cultural sights worth seeing in Dubai’s historic district:

Dubai Museum (photo courtesy of Jumeirah)

Dubai Museum
If you’re interested in finding out about the history of Dubai, check out the Dubai Museum.  You literally “walk through the years,” and get to see how Dubai grew from a small fishing town to a global city and commercial center for the Gulf Region. Really worth a visit!
Address: Al Fahidi Fort – Opposite Grand Mosque, Near Arabian Court Hotel – Al Fahidi St, Dubai, United Arab Emirates [MAP]
Metro Station: Al Fahidi (Green Line)
T: +971 4 353 1862
 

Al Bastakiya Historical Neighborhood
After the Dubai Museum, check out Dubai's historical neighborhood, located a few minutes away from the Al Fahidi Fort/Dubai Museum.  To get there, walk along Al Fahidi St., away from the Museum and towards the roundabout. The neighborhood is pedestrian-only and is a nice oasis of tranquility.  Look for XVA Gallery, stop by the café and try their legendary mint lemonade!  XVA Café is also a good spot to have lunch (tasty local food at reasonable prices).

XVA Café (photo courtesy of XVA Art Hotel & Gallery)

XVA Café
Open daily from 7 am to 10 pm
Address: Al Bastakiya, off Al-Fahidi round about, Al Fahidi St, Dubai, United Arab Emirates [MAP]
Metro Station: Al Fahidi (Green Line)
T: +971 4 353 5383

Gold Souk
A souk dedicated to gold.  Touristy but fun to see the daily gold rate that appears on digital billboards displayed along the souk.  Be ready to get hassled by vendors selling fake designer bags and watches (just act uninterested and they will leave you alone).  The souk is quite small and can be visited quickly.
Address: d – 24 D 85, Dubai, United Arab Emirates [MAP]
Metro Station: Al Ras (Green Line)

The Gold Souk

Deira Spice Souk
A short walk from the Gold Souk, the Spice Souk is a bit touristy but you’ll be able to see – and smell – all sorts of colorful and fragrant spices from the region.
Address: D 85, Dubai, United Arab Emirates [MAP]
Metro Station: Al Ras (Green Line)

The Spice Souk (photo courtesy of Dubai Tourism)

If you’re into contemporary art and want to get off the tourist track, check out the Al Quoz Industrial Zone, where many local artists have their workshops and galleries.

Al Quoz Industrial Zone

There are many cool art spaces in Al Quoz and we only got to see a few because of time-constraints (our 2-day trip was too short!). 

We recommend that you check out Alserkal Avenue where you’ll find art spaces, including galleries, workshops and collaborative spaces.  We also wanted to go to The Courtyard but didn't have time to make it there.

Alserkal Avenue
Address: Street 8, Al Quoz 1 (EXIT 43 off of Sheikh Zayed Rd, Dubai, United Arab Emirates [MAP]
T: +971 50 556 9797

At Alserkal Avenue, stop by A4 Space, a collaborative space for artists, writers and the culturally curious to create, connect and collaborate.  Check out the cultural library at The Loft and have a coffee at Appetite Café, both located inside A4 Space.  Look up the calendar of events to see what's going on while you're in Dubai!

To get to Alserkal Avenue, you can take the Metro (Red Line) to either Noor Bank or First Gulf Bank (Gold & Diamond Park) and take a cab from there.  Additional information on how to get there can be found here. 

Note: it can be difficult to find a cab in Al Quoz to make it back Downtown around rush hour (5-5:30pm) so make sure you plan ahead.

A4 Space / The Loft (photo courtesy of Alserkal Avenue)

WHERE TO EAT

Wafi Gourmet / Dubai Mall Branch (photo courtesy of Wafi Gourmet)

Wafi Gourmet (Lebanese)
Delicious and authentic Lebanese cuisine.  Serves a wide selection of mezze, kebabs and seafood.  The Dubai Mall branch is located a few steps from the Burj Khalifah and has a nice terrace, where locals have shisha while enjoying the view of the Burj Khalifa Lake.  Good spot for lunch or dinner.
Address: Lower Ground floor, Dubai Mall, Downtown Burj Khalifa [MAP]
T: +971 4 330 8297

La Petite Maison (photo courtesy of La Petite Maison)

La Petite Maison (French)
Very trendy. Located in DIFC (Downtown Dubai).
Address: Gate Village No, 8, Dubai International Financial Center, 312th Road, Dubai, United Arab Emirates [MAP]
Metro Station:  Financial Centre (Red Line)
T: +971 4 439 0505

Roberto's (photo courtesy of Roberto's)

Roberto’s (Italian)
Delicious and trendy. Located in DIFC (Downtown Dubai).
Address: The Bay Gate, Dubai International Financial Center, Dubai, United Arab Emirates [MAP]
Metro Station:  Financial Centre (Red Line)
T: +971 4 386 0066

The Meat Co. (Steakhouse)
Great selection of steaks but also serves fish. Located by the waterway in Souk Madinat.  Nice spot for dinner.
Address:  Souk Madinat Jumeirah, Dubai, United Arab Emirates [MAP]
T: +971 4 368 6040

MeatCo @ Souk Madinat (photo courtesy of The Meat Co.)

Pai Thai (Thai)
Located in Al Qasr Hotel, one of the boutique hotels in Madinat Jumeirah. Go to Souk Madinat and take a small boat that takes you to the restaurant.
Address: Al Qasr, Madinat Jumeirah Resort, Al Sufouh Road, Dubai, United Arab Emirates [MAP]
T: +971 4 366 5866

Pierchic (Seafood)
Super romantic.  Expensive but has the best view of Burj Al Arab.  Located at the end of the pier at Al Qasr, Madinat Jumeirah.  Access from Al Qasr pool and beach area.
Address: Al Qasr, Madinat Jumeirah Resort, Al Sufouh Road, Dubai, United Arab Emirates [MAP]
T: +971 4 366 5866
 

Pierchic (photo courtesy of Jumeirah)

WHERE TO GO OUT

101 Lounge & Bar (photo courtesy of One & Only The Palm)

101 Lounge & Bar
Beautiful for drinks at sunset time 5:30PM. A Must! Located in the One & Only The Palm (Palm Jumeirah).
Address: West Crescent, The Palm Jumeirah, Dubai, United Arab Emirates [MAP]
T: +971 4 440 1030

The Act (photo courtesy of The Act)

The Act
Combines performances, music and good Peruvian food. Located in the Shangri-la.
Address: Shangri-La Hotel, 42nd floor, Sheikh Zayed Road, Dubai, United Arab Erimates [MAP]
Metro Station: Financial Centre
T: +971 4 355 1116

Globe-Trotting Contributors
Maru Velez and Wolfgang Harten, previously based in Dubai and currently living in Quito (Ecuador)
Andrés Pages, previously based in Dubai and currently living in Panama City (Panama)
Marie-Adélaïde Mol and Rafael Fernandez, previously based in Singapore and currently living in Panama City (Panama)

Maru + Wolfgang

Andrés

Marie-Adelaide + Rafael

Singapore Beyond Shopping

Singapore is famous for its shopping malls, particularly those on Orchard Road.  However, the “little red dot,” as Singapore is sometimes called, has a lot more to offer than shopping.  If you'd like to explore the city beyond Orchard Road, check out some of our favorite spots.

WHAT TO SEE AND VISIT

Marina Barrage

Marina Barrage
One of our top 3 hang-out spots in Singapore, Marina Barrage is a masterpiece of engineering and urban planning.  Functionally, it is a dam that catches rainwater to create a freshwater reservoir, and architecturally, it is one of Singapore’s best public spaces. On the weekend, locals go to Marina Barrage to have a picnic and relax, enjoying the panoramic views of Singapore’s impressive skyline.  It is one of the few places in the city where there always is a nice breeze, which is why it's a prime spot for kiting.  Also, if you’re interested in learning about the history of Singapore’s development and its careful planning for the future, visit the Sustainable Singapore Gallery - it's fun and very well done (the Gallery is open daily  from 9am to 9pm except Tuesday, and admission is free).
Address: 8 Marina Gardens Drive, Singapore 018951
Getting There: You can always take a cab to Marina Barrage. Alternatively, you can take the MRT to the Marina Bay Station where you can catch Bus 400 at Exit B or walk from the Marina Bay MRT Station Exit A (about a 30 min walk)

Garden Rhapsody @ the Supertree Grove

Gardens by the Bay
Built on reclaimed land and located next to Marina Barrage, Gardens by the Bay are one of Singapore’s latest attractions.  If you’re pressed for time, skip the greenhouses and go straight to the Supertree Grove to take a walk along the Skyway.  A great time to go to the Supertrees is at sunset.  You’ll get a beautiful view of the city’s skyline and when night falls, the Supertrees become alive with a light and sound show called Garden Rhapsody (the show starts daily at 7:45pm).  If you’re hungry, stop by the nearby Satay by the Bay and have some satays (grilled meat on skewers) while enjoying the waterfront.  Note: the satays are a bit pricey but still worth a try...
Address: 18 Marina Gardens Drive, Singapore 018953
Nearest MRT Station:  Bayfront or Marina Bay

Tiong Bahru
If you’ve had enough of skyscrapers, get a change of scenery by going to Tiong Bahru.  Built in the 1930s, the neighborhood has managed to preserve its authenticity while becoming a hip spot with small cafés, bakeries, boutiques and indie bookstores.  Make sure you stop by Books Actually, one of our favorite bookstores where you can find anything from best sellers to locally published authors, and a back room filled with vintage toys!

Books Actually
Address: 9 Yong Siak St, Singapore 168645
Tel: +65 6222 9195
Nearest MRT Station: Tiong Bahru (10 min walk to Yong Siak St)

    Books Actually Bookstore in Tiong Bahru

The Henderson Waves (photo courtesy of National Parks Board)

The Henderson Waves
If you enjoy hiking, go for a walk at the Henderson Waves, Singapore’s highest pedestrian bridge.  Suspended above the trees, you’ll walk through lush tropical trees, stroll by colonial Black and White houses, and wander along architecturally unique pedestrian bridges.  We recommend walking from the Henderson Waves at Henderson Rd to the Alexandra Arch at Alexandra Rd, which takes approximately 1 hr.  When you arrive at Alexandra Rd, cross the street and head over to Hort Park.  There, you can have a coffee and/or snack at the quirky Garden Café where you’ll be surrounded by flowers and plants of different varieties.
Note: this is a very easy hike.
Getting There: Take a cab to Henderson Road or take the MRT to Harbour Front Station Exit D. Then take Bus # 131, 145, 176, 408*, or 648 and alight at the bus stop along Henderson Road, and take the staircase up to Mount Faber Park

WHERE TO EAT

Maxwell Hawker Center (Tanjong Pagar)
Located in Chinatown, Maxwell is one the most famous food courts – aka Hawker Centers – in Singapore. You'll find lots of different food stalls, where you can have delicious local food for less than S$10.  We recommend trying out Chicken Rice and/or Fish Balls, two of Singapore’s local dishes. Typically, the most popular stalls have the longest line.
Note: a small pack of paper tissue on a table means that the table is “reserved” (or choped in local slang). In fact, make sure you bring your own paper tissue, not only to reserve your table but also because there are no paper napkins at Hawker Centers! Address:  1 Kadayanallur St (@ Maxwell Rd), Singapore 069184
Closest MRT Station: Tanjong Pagar or Chinatown

The Loft (photo courtesy of The Loft)

The Loft (Chinatown)
Tucked on the 1st floor of a traditional Chinese shophouse, The Loft makes great coffee and serves delicious waffles.  Nice spot for late breakfast or brunch.  The staff is very friendly and they have free WIFI.  As a pointer, The Loft is across the street from Maxwell.
Address:  268A South Bridge Rd (@ Smith St), Singapore 058817
Tel: +65 6221 2103
Closest MRT Station: Chinatown

Artistry (Bugis)
Located near Arab Street, Artistry is one of our favorite cafes/restaurants.  The small cafe/bar/restaurant has a nice terrace where you can have dinner and/or drinks.  They feature art exhibitions and sometimes host live music events inside. Nice place for a drink or a light lunch/brunch.
Address:  17 Jalan Pinang (@ Victoria St), Singapore 199149
Tel: +65 6298 2420
Closest MRT Station: Bugis Junction

PS Café @ Harding Road (photo courtesy of PS Café)

PS Café at Harding Road (Dempsey)
Located at the heart of Dempsey Hill and surrounded by lush greenery, PS Café serves delicious food in a relaxed atmosphere. Dempsey Hill used to be known as former British army barracks and the Central Manpower Base of Singapore (“CMPB”) but has since then been turned into a retail and lifestyle destination. PS Café can be a good spot to go to after visiting the Botanic Garden, which is located across from Dempsey Hill (on the other side of Holland Road).
Address: 28b Harding Rd, Singapore 249549
Tel / SMS: +65 9070 8782

Em by the River (Robertson Quay) 
Nice place for brunch with good food and an interesting décor (the furniture is made out of concrete or carved out of logs).  The restaurant has a great outdoor space where you can enjoy your meal or drinks by the river.  There are no MRT stations nearby so take a cab to get there.
Address: 1 Nanson Rd #01-05 of Gallery Hotel, Singapore 238909
Tel: +65 6836 9691

Strangers Reunion (Kampong Bahru)
Always bustling, Strangers Reunions is an eclectic café/restaurant mostly known for its waffles but also serving eggs and other dishes.  Nice spot for a late breakfast or lunch.  Expect a wait on weekends…
Address:  37 Kampong Bahru Rd, Singapore 169356
Tel: +65 6222 4869
Closest MRT Station: Outram Park
 

WHERE TO HAVE A COFFEE

Hand-drip coffee @ Just Want Coffee

Just Want Coffee Everton
Just Want Coffee – aka JWC – is a great hang out spot for a lazy Saturday afternoon and one of our favorite cafés.  It is located on the ground level of the Everton Park HDB, right across the street from The Pinnacle.  We recommend trying their Ethiopian hand-drip coffee, which is really tasty.  They also make delicious iced coco and pastries!
Address: 1 Everton Park (@ Neil Rd & Cantonment Rd), Singapore 081001
Tel: +65 6225 8115
Closest MRT Station: Outram Park

Nylon Coffee
If you’re a coffee lover, definitely stop by Nylon where coffee beans are freshly roasted at the back of the micro-roastery.  They just recently added a standing bar so you can enjoy your coffee in the AC! The café is hidden at the back of the Everton Park HDB.  To get there, go around Block 4 and look for the moustache: Nylon Coffee Roasters’ avatar.
Address: 4 Everton Park #01-40, Singapore 081001
Tel: +65 6220 2330
Closest MRT Station: Outram Park

Nylon Coffee Roasters (photo courtesy of Nylon Coffee blog)

WHERE TO HAVE DRINKS

Bar Stories (Arab Street)
Bespoke cocktails are en vogue and Bar Stories may have started the trend in Singapore.  Instead of handing you a drink menu, the waiter will ask you to reveal your favorite ingredients or the type of cocktail you’re in the mood for.  The result: a special concoction served in a funky martini glass or a smoking tea-jar.  A fun and delicious experience!
Address: 57A Haji Lane, Singapore 189250
Tel: +65 6298 0838
Closest MRT Station: Bugis Junction

The Screening Room Rooftop Bar (Ann Siang Hill)
Enjoy rooftop views of the hip and historic Ann Siang Hill and Club Street, once the home ground of traditional Chinese clan associations.  The bar is at the top of a beautiful heritage house. 
Address: 12 Ann Siang Rd, Singapore 069692
Tel: +65 6221 1694
Closest MRT Station: Chinatown

View from Level 33

Level 33 (CBD)
Located on the 33rd floor of the Standard Chartered tower in the Central Business District (aka CBD), the bar has one of the most stunning views of the Marina Bay. Make sure you arrive early because it can get a bit crowded, especially on weekends.  Otherwise, make a reservation and ask for a table at the terrace.
Address: 8 Marina Blvd, #33-01, MBFC Tower 1, Singapore 018981
Tel: +65 6834 3133

Ku Dé Ta (Marina Bay)
If you’re in the mood for clubbing, go to Ku Dé Ta for late night drinks and dancing.  From the top of the Marina Bay Sands, you’ll get an amazing view of Singapore by night.
Address: 1 Bayfront Avenue, Marina Bay Sands SkyPark, Singapore 018956
Tel: +65 6688 7688

Globe-Trotting Contributors
Marie-Adélaïde & Rafael Fernández
Previously based in Singapore, currently living in Panama City

Rafael + Marie-Adélaïde

Hanoi On and Off the Tourist Circuit

If you enjoy history and architecture, you will love Hanoi!  We traveled to Hanoi twice while living in Singapore, and were lucky to be shown around by two globe-trotters, Pem and Sara, who lived in Hanoi at the time.  They took us to some of their favorite local spots, including restaurants, cafes and bars around town.  There is a lot to do in Hanoi so make sure you have at least 2 to 3 days to explore the city.  Also check out our post on Hanoi's Up and Coming Art Scene!

WHAT TO SEE AND VISIT

Temple of Literature (Dong Da District)
Travel back in time at the Temple of Literature, home to Vietnam's first national university (established in 1076).  You can then have lunch at KOTO Restaurant (more info below), located right next to the Temple of Literature on Van Mieu street.
 

Temple of Literature

Hai Ba Trung Temple (Hai Ba Trung District)
Visit this small Buddhist temple dedicated to the Trung Sisters.  The temple is tucked away from the busy streets of Hanoi and a bit less touristy.

Hoan Kiem Lake (Hoan Kiem District)
Walk along Hoan Kiem Lake and visit the red-painted Huc Bridge.  Then go to City View Café and enjoy the view while having a fresh juice or local beer.


City View Café
Address: Han Viet Tower, 6th Floor, 203 Minh Khai St., Hai Ba Trung, Hanoi
T: +84 (0)4 2215 5768

 Huc Bridge (photo courtesy of Dolma Photography)

Sights of Hanoi's bustling streets from the City View Cafe

Hoa Lo Prison or "Hanoi Hilton" (photo courtesy of Dolma Photography)

Hoa Lo Prison, aka Maison Centrale
Prisons usually aren't at the top of our list of recommendations but in the case of Hanoi, Hoa Lo Prison is a must see.  You'll even get to see what are said to be John McCain's Vietnam War fatigues.

Uncle Ho (Chi Minh)'s Mausoleum
You have to get there early to visit the mausoleum and see Ho Chi Minh's embalmed body. The museum isn't a must, mostly in Vietnamese too...

The above are the general sights you'll read about in guides.  You can skip the water puppet show, at least the one in Hanoi - although it may be worth seeing one in a smaller village depending where you are traveling.
 

WHERE TO EAT

KOTO (Dong Da District - near Temple of Literature) 
Not-for-profit training restaurant that teaches Vietnamese youngsters from disadvantaged backgrounds to cook and serve up some tasty dishes. Try the vegetarian (or non-veg) bun bo nam bo.
Address: 59 Van Mieu Street, Dong Da, Hanoi, Vietnam
T: +84 (0)4 3747 0337  

Pots n’ Pans (Hai Ba Trung District)
Founded by a KOTO graduate, this sleek resto on Mai Hac De does Vietnamese-Western fusion right. Staff are super nice and are usually KOTO graduates too. Buy one, get one free happy hour every day.  Open 11.30am until late, 7 days.
Address: 57 Bui Thi Xuan Street, Hai Ba Trung, Hanoi, Vietnam
T: +84 (0)4 3944 0204/05

Nang Tam Vegetarian (Hoan Kiem District)
Vietnamese vegetarian in a house just off Tran Hung Dao.  Tofu in tomatoes and grilled aubergine should not be missed.
Address: 79A Tran Hung Dao, Hoan Kiem, Hanoi
T: +84 (0)4 3942 4140

Nga Hang Ngon (Hoan Kiem District)
This restaurant on Tran Hung Dao street serves typical Vietnamese street food done restaurant-style. It occupies two renovated colonial-style houses and open courtyard, and is widely popular with vietnamese and foreigners.
Address: 18 Phan Boi Chau, Hoan Kiem, Hanoi, Vietnam
T: + 84 (0)4 3942 8162/63

Puku (Hoan Kiem District)
Irish nachos, free wifi and great coffee drinks can be enjoyed here.  Open 24 hours.
Address: 16/18 Tong Duy Tan, Hoan Kiem, Hanoi, Vietnam
T: +84 (0)4 3928 5244 

New Day Restaurant (Old Quarter/North of Hoan Kiem Lake)
Good local cuisine without the hazards of street food.
Address: 72 Ma May, Hanoi, Vietnam
T: +84 (0)4 3828 0315

Green Tangerine (Old Quarter/Hoan Kiem District)
Innovative and elevated Vietnamese-French fusion in a beautifully restored french villa on Hang Be Street.
Address: 48 Hang Be, Hoan Kiem, Hanoi, Vietnam
T: +84 (0)4 3825 1286

La Restaurant (Old Quarter/Hoan Kiem District)
Located near St. Joseph’s Cathedral, a place to enjoy well-done Vietnamese favorites in a relaxed setting. Incredible potato and gouda soup.
Address: 25 Ly Quoc S, Hoan Kiem, Hanoi, Vietnam
T: +84 (0)4 3928 8933

Namaste Hanoi (Old Quarter/Hoan Kiem District)
Tasty offerings of both North and South Indian cuisine in veg and non-veg varieties. Crispy dosas that are bigger than your head.
Address: 46 Tho Nhuom St, Hoan Kiem, Hanoi, Vietnam
T: +84 (0)4 3935 2400 

Tamarind Vegetarian (Old Quarter/Hoan Kiem District)
Backpacker-type restaurant with vegetarian creations with interesting names such as veggie towers of babel or veggie coffin. Travel agency in the back.
Address: 80 Ma May, Hoan Kiem, Hanoi, Vietnam
T: +84 (0)4 3926 1296
 

WHERE TO HAVE COFFEE

Whipped Egg Coffee at Hanoi Social Club (photo courtesy of Dolma Photography)

Hanoi Social Club (Hoan Kiem District)
Very cool spot with a bohemian vibe.  A steamy cappuccino with their sticky toffee pudding hits the spot. Also a great place to try the uniquely Vietnamese cà phê trứng, coffee with whipped egg.
Address: 6 Hoi Vu, Hoan Kiem, Hanoi, Vietnam
T: +84 (0)4 3938 2117

Marilyn (Hoan Kiem District)
Resto-cafe with a rooftop overlooking St. Joseph’s Cathedral.  Their fresh fruit smoothies are refreshing after a walk around the old quarter.
Address: 04 Au Trieu, Hoan Kiem, Hanoi, Vietnam

Joma Bakery Café (Hoan Kiem District)
Bakery cafe of Lao origin with a big space on Ly Quoc Su, near the Cathedral. Great soup, free WIFI and free refills on large americano coffees.  Open every day 7am–9pm.
Address: 22 Ly Quoc Su, Hoan Kiem, Hanoi, Vietnam
T: +84 (0)4 3938 1619

    Kinh Do Café (photo courtesy of Dolma Photography)

Kinh Do Cafe (Hoan Kiem District) 
Great spot for breakfast. Catherine Deneuve was a regular while filming Indochine.
Address: 252 Hang Bong, Hoan Kiem, Vietnam
T: +84 4 3825 0216

Saint-Honoré Bakery (Hai Ba Trung District)
In the shadow of Vincom Towers, this French-inspired cafe offers dozens of different pastries, breads, and mouthwatering tarts.  Good for lunch when you are craving a cheesy, well-grilled panini.
Address: 31 Thai Phien, Ha Ba Trung, Hanoi, Vietnam
T: +84 (0)4 3974 9483


WHERE TO GO FOR DRINKS

*Ta Hien Street* (Old Quarter)
For evening drinks, go to Ta Hien Street where there are lots of bars and bia hoi's (literally freshly [brewed] beer). Sitting on a tiny plastic stool on the sidewalk is the way to go here! For a sit down place nearby, check out Mao's Red lounge. 

Mao’s Red Lounge (Old Quarter)
Bar on pub street with cheap drinks, good DJ, and a funky ambiance.
Address: 7 Ta Hien, Hanoi, Vietnam
T: +84 (0)4 3926 3104

CAMA ATK (Hai Ba Trung District)
Chill space to enjoy some well-spun tunes and a stiff, handcrafted cocktail.
Open Wednesday – Saturday 6:00pm – midnight.
Address: 73A Mai Hac De, Hanoi, Vietnam

Madake (Tay Ho District)
The new it-place to go to down a few beers and chat up friends both old and new.  Tasty Thai food also made on site.
Address: 81 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Hanoi, Vietnam
T: +84 (0)4 6276 6665
 

WHERE TO SHOP

Tan My Design (Hoan Kiem District)
Beautiful vietnamese-made household items that make great gifts. Nice pieces of jewelry and clothing too.
Address: 61 Hang Gai,, Hanoi, Vietnam
T: +84 (0)4 3938 1154
 

HOW TO GET AROUND (Prices as of January 2014)

By Motorbike
Renting a motorbike is the best way to see the city if you are comfortable with it. You can rent one for the day on Ta Hien Street, in the old quarter where you'll find lots of different stores.  Rental should cost about US$4/5 (i.e. 85K to 105K VND) a day.

By Cab
Cabs are quite inexpensive in general. Depending on how big they are, starting price is usually, 8K/10K/14K VND. Some meters do go faster than others, so in general I recommend taking the Mai Linh company (white and green cabs).  A cab from Noibai Airport in Hanoi to Downtown Hanoi should cost around 350K VND. Ask for 300K and settle for 350K - that's actually the price. If you arrive late at night and there are fewer cabs, they may get greedier.  That happened to us at 1am on a Monday, we paid 500K VND.
 

Globe-Trotting Contributors
Pierre-Emmanuel Mol, Sara Lehman, Marie-Adélaïde Mol, Rafael Fernández

Pem + Sara

Marie-Adelaide + Rafael