Bangkok Green Edition

Despite being nicknamed the Big Mango, Bangkok is a sprawling concrete jungle that keeps growing every day. The skyline is dotted with skyscrapers and construction cranes as developers continue to build the city skywards. At almost all hours of the day, you can hear the incessant buzz of construction. Due to this, many visitors rarely spend time in Bangkok, opting instead for the mountain views of the north or the white sand beaches in the south. But to forego Bangkok is to skip out on the beating pulse of the country. It's where the traditional and the modern collide, and where you will get the truest sense of how Thais have always tried to blend the two into something uniquely their own.

These days there's a growing movement within the city to revive green spaces and expand urban agriculture in an attempt to counter-balance the malls and condos that are multiplying every day. For those of you who want to see a different, greener side of the Big Mango, check out these recommendations from The Little Greenhouse in the Big Mango.

WHERE TO EAT

Although Thai food has many meat-based specialties, if you’re vegetarian or vegan, or simply curious, there are a number of places to enjoy delicious meat-free options in Bangkok. In Thai, the word jay (rhymes with “hay”) means “vegan” while mung-saht-wi-raht means “vegetarian”.

Na Aroon Restaurant in AriyasomVilla (photo credit: Na Aroon Restaurant)

Na Aroon Restaurant in Ariyasom Villa
This delightful restaurant is within a charming boutique hotel nestled in a leafy oasis at the end of Sukhumvit Soi 1. The exclusively pescatarian menu (only seafood, vegetarian or vegan options) offers a dizzying array of Thai specialities that are often off limits elsewhere for vegetarians/vegans due to traditional ingredients of fish sauce or shrimp paste. Make sure to try the yum som-o (pomelo salad), tom kha gai (sour coconut “chicken” soup) and the massamun curry for an unforgettable meal.
Address:  65 Sukhumvit Soi 1, Klongtoey Nua, Wattana, Bangkok 10110 [MAP]
T: +66 2 253 8800
Nearest BTS: Nana Station

Barley Sushi at Rasayana Raw (photo credit: Little Greenhouse in the Big Mango)

Rasayana Raw Restaurant and Spa
In a city where temperatures are routinely above 35 degrees Celsius, it’s often hard to imagine eating anything other than fresh, light meals. Rasayana is the go-to spot. With only raw vegan dishes and loads of fresh juices, you will leave this place feeling revived. Personal favorites are the barley sushi, kale “coleslaw” salad and lemon cheesecake. They also have a spa with cleansing programs in addition to the usual massage offerings.
Address: 57 Soi Sukhumvit 39 (Soi Prom-mitr), Klongton-Nua, Wattana, Bangkok 10110 [MAP]
T: +66 2 662 4803
Nearest BTS: Phrom Phong Station

Suppaniga Eating Room
Suppaniga was among one of the first establishments in a recent trend of hip restaurants serving “grandma’s specialties”, meaning old-fashioned, home-style food. The owner of Suppaniga also opened the Somtum Der branch in NYC. Be sure to ask for their separate vegetarian menu. Their crispy fried tofu with Thai sweet and spicy curry is one of the most delicious things I’ve ever had. Wash it down with a refreshing Thaijito made with Thai basil and Chalong Bay rum from Phuket.
Address: 160/11 Soi Sukhumvit 55 (Thonglor), Klongton Nuea, Watthana, Bangkok 10110 [MAP]
T: +66 2 714 7508
Nearest BTS: Thong Lo Station

Suppaniga Eating Room (photo credit: Suppaniga)

Khao soi at Khun Churn (photo credit: Little Greenhouse in the Big Mango)

Khun Churn at EatThai
If you fancy a quick but tasty lunch while touring around the city, stop by EatThai food court in the basement of Central Embassy mall. Among the collection of stalls (all representing famous eateries from across Bangkok) is Khun Churn’s, which is 100% vegetarian. Try the northern Thai speciality of khao soi, a spicy and sour noodle soup topped with pickled onions and deep-fried crispy noodles.
Address: Central Embassy Mall, 546/4 Phloen Chit, Lumphini, Pathum Wan, Bangkok 10330
T: +66 81 642 3747
Nearest BTS: Phloen Chit Station

Seven Spoons (photo credit: Seven Spoons)

Seven Spoons
This veg-friendly restaurant has been featured as one of the top must-dine spots in Bangkok repeatedly over the past year. Located on the edge of Bangkok’s Chinatown, this small eatery is a charming, friendly spot to while away an evening. Though be prepared to fight over their mushroom fritti! Not only does the food delight the tastebuds, but it is as organic and locally-sourced as possible.
Address: 22-24 Chakkrapatipong Road (corner of of Jor Por Ror and Chakkrapatipong), Bangkok 10100 [MAP]
T: +66 2 629 9214
Nearest BTS: Ratchathewi + taxi

WHERE TO STAY

Bangkok has a hotel for just about any taste and budget. If you’re aiming to experience something different than a cheap backpacking spot on Khao San or a hotel chain, try one of these options that have a little local flair.

Ariyasom Villa
Centrally located not far from the Nana BTS station is this green oasis in the middle of the concrete jungle. This boutique hotel is quite a perfect retreat after a hot day of sightseeing.
Address:  65 Sukhumvit Soi 1, Klongtoey Nua, Wattana, Bangkok 10110 [MAP]
T: +66 2 253 8800

Phranakorn Nornlen (photo credits: Little Greenhouse in the Big Mango)

Phranakorn Nornlen
A quirky “green hotel” near old Bangkok’s Samsen area. All the rooms are modestly furnished and comfortable, with colorful, handpainted walls. There are no TVs. Instead, there are regular offerings of classes in soap carving, Thai cooking and sewing. Enjoy lunch at their rooftop restaurant and check out their urban garden.
Address:  46 Thewet soi 1, Phranakorn, Bangkhunprom, Krungkasem, Bangkok 10200 [MAP]
T: +66 2 628 8188

Urban garden at Phranakorn Nornlen

Room at Phranakorn Nornlen

SALA Rattanakosin Bangkok (photo credits: SALA Resorts)

SALA Rattanakosin
If you’re looking for something more upscale, try this boutique hotel located right on the Chao Phraya River. Simple but luxuriously furnished rooms with a direct view on Wat Arun, or Temple of the Dawn. Ideally located near Wat Po, Museum Siam and a number of good eateries, like Eat Sight Story.
Address: 39 Maharat Road, Rattanakosin Island, Bangkok 10200 [MAP]
T: +66 2 622 1388

WHAT TO DO

Tired of seeing temples? Can't bear another museum? Try some of these rejuvenating alternatives.

Floating Markets Boat & Bike Tour (photo credit: Grasshopper Adventures)

Bike Tour
Try an early-morning bicycle tour to discover hidden gems of the Big Mango. SpiceRoads or Grasshopper Adventures are two well-run tour operators in the city.

Grasshopper Adventures
Address: 57 Ratchadamneon Klang Rd, Phranakorn, Bangkok 10200 [MAP]
T: +66 2 280 0832

SpiceRoads Cycle Tours
Address: 45 (Sub Soi Pannee), Soi Pridi Banomyong 26, Sukhumvit Soi 71, Wattana, Bangkok 10110 [MAP]
T:  +66 2 381 7490

Khao Yai National Park (photo credit: Khao Yai National Park)

Khao Yai National Park
If you want to see some of the region’s wildlife, bypass the ethically-dubious Tiger Temple and elephant camps.  Located just a few hours’ drive outside the city, this UNESCO Natural World Heritage Site is a haven to diverse and rare wildlife such as wild elephants, gaur, Asiatic black bears and gibbons. Guided-treks and overnight camping are possible but plan early because advance permission from the park is required.  Look up the Khao Yai Nationa Park's website for more info on how to get there.

Siam Green Sky (photo credit: Bangkok Post)

Siam Green Sky
This experimental edible garden on the rooftop of the Siam Square shopping mall in central Bangkok is a must-see. Started by Chulalongkorn University, Siam Green Sky is a new pilot program in green space management and will serve as a learning centre for Bangkokians who want to learn more about urban agriculture.
Hours of Operation: every Wednesday and Saturday from 10:00 to 18:00 hrs., without charge. Guided visits only, divided into three rounds: 1) 10:30 to 11:30am ; 2) 2:30 to 3:30pm; and 3) 4:30 to 5:30 pm.  You can book a tour in advance by either calling +66 99 001 8514 or emailing siamgreensky@gmail.com.
Address: Siam Square One Shopping Mall, 254 Phayathai Road, Wang Mai, Pathum Wan, Bangkok 10330 [MAP]
Nearest BTS: Siam Station

Root Garden at Thong Lor (photo credit: Root Garden)

Root Garden
Another urban agriculture project, in the middle of Sukhumvit’s upscale Thong Lor neighborhood, offers visitors opportunities to get their hands dirty by helping water plants or feed animals. It’s run by a local NGO that advocates for efficient, small-scale and pro-poor land use in Thailand.
Open from 8 am to 8 pm, Tuesday to Sunday.
Address: Khlong Tan Nuea, in between Thonglor Soi 1 and 3, Watthana, Bangkok 10110 [MAP]
T: +66 85 825 2298
Nearest BTS: Thong Lo Station

Wat Po Traditional Medicine and Massage School (photo credit: Wat Po Massage School)

Thai Massage at Wat Po Traditional Medicine and Massage School
Instead of getting a massage at a spa or the hotel, try the Wat Po Traditional Medicine and Massage School. Wat Po has been a center for Thai medicine and massage for decades. Beware, traditional Thai massages aren’t always relaxing since they manipulate your limbs. Be sure to say jep noi if it hurts.
Address: 392/33-34 Maharach Rd., Prabarommaharajawang, Pranakorn, Bangkok 10200 [MAP]
T: +66 2 622 3551 / 2 622 3533

Globe-Trotting Contributors
Recommendations by Sara Lehman, founder of the Little Greenhouse in the Big Mango, currently living in Bangkok (Thailand)
Illustrations by Rafael Fernández & Marie-Adélaïde Mol, previously based in Singapore and currently living in Panama City (Panama)

Sara // Little Green House in the Big Mango

Rafael + Marie-Adelaide

Coming Soon...

Recently started by Sara Lehman, Little Greenhouse in the Big Mango is a blog chronicling her pursuit of a more sustainable urban lifestyle. Sara lived in major cities almost all her life and can't imagine living anywhere else. But it's clear to her that as more of the human population moves to cities, we are going to have to figure out better ways to share an increasingly overcrowded, overheated and over-exploited planet.

Learn more about Little Greenhouse in the Big Mango here. 

Bangkok Insider

WHAT TO SEE AND VISIT

Reclining Buddha at Wat Pho

Recommended Tour (if you only have a day in Bangkok)

Start your day at the Mandarin Oriental Hotel to see its old colonial house and then board the river taxi to venture north on the Chao Phraya river.

Get off the water taxi to see the Wat Pho temple, Wat Phra Kaew (Emerald Buddha) and the Grand Palace grounds.

Warning: scam operators have been known to target tourists trying to see these sights. A very friendly Thai (some are friendlier than others!) will approach you to tell you the [Grand Palace, Emerald Buddha, etc.] is closed for a special holiday or closed until the afternoon, and try to divert you by "helping" you get a cheap tuk-tuk. Visitors should always approach a tourist police or preferably, the main entrance of these sites first to inquire.

After all the sightseeing, reward yourself with a sunset drink at The Deck (more info below), which has a rooftop offering amazing sunset views of Wat Arun (Temple of Dawn). Really beautiful view but try to get there in advance of sunset since you will not be alone, for sure!

End the day taking a tuk tuk over to Khao San Rd. It is the main backpacker street and although not significant to Thai history, it's an interesting street to see nonetheless, and it's always a happening place with all the pubs and restaurants.
















Other places to visit 

Jim Thompson House
Amazing collection of Thai antiques and house of the creator of Jim Thompson silk business.  The house is architecturally and culturally fascinating, and the cherry on top is the mystery surrounding Jim Thompson's disappearance. He used to be a former CIA agent before starting his silk company, and one day while hiking in Malaysia in the 1970s, he completely disappeared. Not a trace. This house is his legacy. Also, check out the Jim Thompson store, which has a lot of beautiful gifts to bring back for the family.
Address: 6 Soi Kasemsan 2, Rama 1 Road, Bangkok, 10400, Thailand
Skytrain Stop: National Stadium Station

Chatuchak Weekend Market
If you are in Bangkok on the weekend, check out Chatuchak Market early in the morning. It gets very crowded during the day. It's a great place to buy gifts and just see the busiest market in Bangkok.
SkyTrain Stop: Mochit Station 
MRT Stop: Kamphaenpetch Station

Chinatown or Little India
Both Chinese and Indians are prevalent in Thai history and culture, and these communities are vibrant. These neighborhoods are definitely worth checking out.

Floating Market

Floating Market
The floating market is actually outside of Bangkok and maybe will help you see why Bangkok used to be called the Venice of the East! It requires waking up very early (2-4 am!) and taking a hired taxi or public bus to the floating market. Great photo ops.










WHERE TO EAT

Supatra River House
Delicious Thai restaurant located on the Chao Phraya river bank. Their tom kha kai is incredible!
Address: 266 Soi Wat Rakhang, Siriraj, Bangkok Noi, Bangkok 10700, Thailand
Water Taxi Stop: Tha Chang Wang Lang Pier
 

WHERE TO GO FOR DRINKS

View of Wat Arun from The Deck

The Deck
After all the sightseeing, reward yourself with a sunset drink at The Deck, which has a rooftop offering amazing views of sunset with Wat Arun (Temple of the Dawn). Really beautiful but try to get there in advance of sunset since you will not be alone, for sure!
Address:  36-38 Soi Pratoo Nok Yoong, Maharat Road, Rattanakosin Island, Bangkok, 10200, Thailand
Water Taxi Stop: Tatien Pier

Sirocco
If you are looking for a grande finale, check out Sirocco, atop the Lebua, where the opening scene of Hangover 2 was filmed.  The view of Bangkok is amazing and it's a fantastic place for a drink on your final night in Bangkok. 
Tip: if the main bar is too crowded, snap a few photos of the view and go to the side bar for a drink.
Address: 1055 Silom Road, Bangrak, Bangkok, 10500, Thailand
BTS/Water Taxi Stop: Saphan Thaksin Station/Central Pier (5-10 min walk to Lebua)

                           Panoramic view from Sirocco (photo courtesy of Jeffrey Chua)

WHERE TO GO OUT 

Silom and Patpong are the mainstays of Bangkok nightlife. Though Patpong is seedier than Silom, it might just be worth checking out for a view into a different, darker side of Bangkok.  Soi 11 also has nightlife for all tastes and budgets. There's Above 11 at Fraser Suites for some hi-so fusion tapas with an incredible view of the city, or there are street-side bars serving cheap drinks from a tricked-out Volkswagen van - and everything in between! 

Above 11 Rooftop Bar
Address: 33 rd floor of the Fraser Suites Sukhumvit @ 38/8 Sukhumvit Soi 11, Klong Toey Nua, Wattana, Bangkok 10110, Thailand
BTS Stop: Nana station

WHERE TO STAY

Riva Surya Bangkok Hotel
Riva Surya is a small boutique hotel near the Old City. Overlooking the river, the hotel nicely blends modern and traditional Thai architecture. It's a great to place to stay if you wish to spend time in the historical part of Bangkok. And to go to the City Center, just hop in a Water Taxi from the Phra Arthit Pier located a few steps away from the hotel. 
Address: 23 Phra Arthit Road, Pranakorn, Bangkok, 10200, Thailand
Water Taxi Stop: Phra Arthit Pier

WHERE TO SHOP

Terminal 21 Mall
The newest mall in Bangkok, themed around an airport. It is an interesting look into the contemporary Thai cultural past-time - shopping! 
Address: 2,88 Sukhumvit Soi 19, Sukhumvit Rd, North Khlong Toei, Wattana, Bangkok 10110, Thailand
BTS Stop: Asok Station

WHERE TO GET TAILOR-MADE SHIRTS

Larry's Fashion (photo courtesy of Dolma Photography)

Larry's Fashion
Bangkok is known for its tailors and there are many to choose from but we recommend Larry. He is fast, reliable and his shop is centrally located near the Phrom Phong Skytrain station.
Address: 105 Sukhumvit Soi 22, Sukhumvit Rd, Khlong Toei, Sukhumvit, Bangkok,10110, Thailand
BTS Stop: Phrom Phong Station
 

WHERE TO GET A MASSAGE

Urban Retreat Spa
Massage parlors abound in Bangkok but some of them can be a bit sketchy.  We recommend Urban Retreat, a clean, pleasant and affordable spa.  They have two convenient locations, which you you can choose from depending where you are staying.
Open Daily from 10 am to 10 pm.
BTS Phrom Phong Branch: +66 (0) 2204 1042-3
BTS Asoke Branch: +66 (0) 2229 4701-3


HOW TO GET AROUND

Tuk Tuk (photo courtesy of Dolma Photography)

Sky Trains (BTS) and Subway (MRT)
Bangkok is known for its traffic jams so we recommend using the sky trains (BTS) and Bangkok's subway (MRT) as much as you can. The MRT connects to the BTS at Asok station. Day Passes are available for 130 Bhat.

Water Taxi (Chao Phraya Express Boats)
Another great way to beat the traffic - and to get a different view of Bangkok - is to navigate the city with Water Taxis.  The Water Taxis make stops on both sides of the Chao Phraya river.  You can transfer to the BTS (Sky Train) at Central Pier / Saphan Thaksin.

Tuk Tuk
You shouldn't leave Bangkok without taking a Tuk Tuk at least once.  You will most likely be over-charged for the ride and can bargain with the driver but you might want to let it go and consider it part of the Bangkok experience.

Globe-Trotting Contributors
Pierre-Emmanuel Mol & Sara Lehman, currently living in Bangkok
and formerly in Hanoi.  Check out their blog The Lotus & The Frog!

Coming Soon...

B A N G K O K !