A Day in Teshima

We found out about Teshima while visiting the Chichu Art Museum in Naoshima, where we came across photos of the Teshima Art Museum and other art installations on the island.  Our itinerary was very tight and we only had a day left in Naoshima but with the help of a very friendly receptionist at the Benesse House, we devised a plan to make a small detour via Teshima before heading to our next destination – Kobe.  Teshima is amazing and if you’re planning to go all the way to Naoshima, we really recommend adding a day in Teshima to your itinerary.

WHAT TO SEE AND VISIT

Teshima Art Musueum (photo courtesy of Iwan Baan)

Teshima Art Museum
The crown jewel of Teshima, this museum is one of the most extraordinary pieces of contemporary architecture in the world.  The Teshima Art Museum is the product of a collaboration between architect Ryue Nishizawa and artist Rei Naito.  As you approach the museum site, you will be drawn into an intriguing organic shaped structure that hugs the landscape around it.  In its interior, an incredible vaulted space will absorb you into a silent experience of reflection and contemplation of water droplets gliding through the concrete surface.  You can’t miss this architectural wonder.  [MAP]

Les Archives du Coeur (photo courtesy of Yasuhide Kuge)

Les Archives du Coeur
Located on the east end of Teshima,  Les Archives du Coeur (“Heart Archives") by French artist Christian Boltanski is an art installation dedicated to record and archive the heartbeats of all its visitors.  After recording your heartbeat, you will enter a chamber where the recorded heartbeats (including yours if you choose to) will be the focus of an incredible audio-visual installation.  A truly out-of-body experience!  [MAP]

Due to our tight schedule, we could only visit a few installations but you can find out about other art sites on Teshima via the Art Setouchi website. 

Note: some of the artworks such as Tom Na H-iu by Mariko Mori and Distant Memory by Chiharu Shiota’s are closed during winter (from mid-November to end of March).

WHERE TO HAVE A COFFEE (OR TEA)

Café Il Vento
What appears to be a traditional Japanese house on the outside, is in fact a café with a psychedelic décor in the inside.  The artwork/café, also called Was du liebst, bring dich auch zum weinen  (“what you love, will also make you cry” in German), was designed by German artist Tobias Rehberger.  A great spot to have coffee and delicious home-made cakes after exploring the island!

Café Il Vento / Was du liebst, bring dich auch zum weinen

Teshima Art Museum Café (photo courtesy of Wallpaper*)

Teshima Art Museum Café
Designed by architect Ryue Nishizawa, the café is like a droplet of the Art Museum, very minimalist and zen. Try out their rice balls or their delicious donuts made with rice grown in the rice terraces of Teshima.

HOW TO GET THERE

From/To Naoshima
There is a ferry boat that runs between Miyanoura Port in Naoshima and Ieura Port in Teshima.   The boat ride takes approximately 20 minutes and costs 600 yen/person.
[Naoshima/Teshima Ferry Timetables]

From/To Uno Port
The ferry boat from/to Uno Port makes stops at both Ieura Port and Karato Port in Teshima.  The boat ride takes from 40 minutes (to Ieura) to an hour (to Karato), and costs between 750 and 1000 yen. 
[Uno/Teshima Ferry Timetables]

Teshima Passenger Ferry Boat

Note:  You can find additional information on how to get to Teshima on the Japan-Guide site.
 

HOW TO GET AROUND TESHIMA

Teshima Local Bus (photo courtesy of Japan-Guide)

The day we went to Naoshima was rainy so we got around by local bus (200 yen/ride) and by walk.  However, if you’re there on a sunny day, another option is to rent a bike so you can explore the island on your own schedule (the local bus doesn’t come by very often).

Note: The Art Setouchi website recommends renting pedelecs (power assisted bicycles) due to the steep hills in some parts of the island.  Bicycles can be rented on the South Side of the Ieura port terminal building from 9:00-16:00 (1,000 yen for 4 hours; 100 yen every additional hour; 40 pedelecs.  Closed on Tuesday, or on Wednesday if Tuesday is a national holiday).


OTHER USEFUL TIPS 

Baggage Check
If you’re visiting Teshima on the go (with your luggage), there is a baggage check service (300 yen/bag) at the Ieura Port Ferry Terminal, from 8:30am to 5pm.  We used the baggage check service and it was great!
 

Globe-Trotting Contributors
Marie-Adélaïde Mol and Rafael Fernández

Exploring Naoshima

Naoshima is one of the most amazing places we've ever visited. After an epic journey by air, land and sea, arriving in Naoshima was like landing in an oasis of nature and culture. If you’re into architecture, art, philosophy, and want to get off the usual tourist track in Japan, then Naoshima is for you.  The trip can be long and arduous but the journey to get there is part of the experience.  If you can, we recommend staying at least 3 full days so you can also explore Naoshima's sister islands, Teshima and Inujima.

WHAT TO SEE AND VISIT

Lee Ufan Museum

Lee Ufan Museum
We arrived at the museum on a late morning, after getting dropped off by the Benesse House shuttle bus that stops at the different art sites on the island. Perhaps a prelude to the Chichu Art Museum, the Lee Ufan Museum can be found nestled in the hills between the Benesse House Museum and the Chichu Art Museum. This pavilion-size structure gives you a preview of Tadao Ando ’s ideas for the island's buildings as spaces of retreat and reflection.

Chichu Art Museum (photo courtesy of Iwan Baan)

Chichu Art Museum
A short walk from Lee Ufan, the Chichu Art Museum is the crownpiece of Naoshima Island. Also designed by Tadao Ando, the museum leads its visitors through a journey of art installations by Claude Monet, James Turrell and Walter de Maria.
What makes Chichu truly unique is that the museum was carefully designed by Ando to best exhibit the artworks. Each art installation was beyond our imagination and we were mesmerized by the perfect harmony between the space and the artworks. Exploring the museum is an exterior-interior experience realized by Ando through his masterful use of light and concrete.   The truth is that words don’t do justice to this place, and you have to go there to see and experience this one of a kind museum and architectural masterpiece. 

Art House Project (photo courtesy of Benesse House)

Art House Project
The Art House Project consists of a series of 1- or 2-storey traditional Japanese houses scattered among Honmura District, Naoshima’s main residential area. Stepping inside the traditional houses, you'll discover incredible modern art installations.

Start at Honmura Lounge & Archive where you can get your ticket (we recommend the option that gives you access to all the houses) and a small map to navigate the labyrinth of streets of Honmura. While visiting the Art House Project, we met a really cool couple of Columbia University Law Professors with whom we explored the different houses and art installations.  It was a blast!
 

Ando Museum (photo courtesy of Benesse House)

Ando Museum
The Ando Museum is a great little museum that showcases Tadao Ando’s work as an architect, including hand-drawn sketches and models.  The museum is located in a traditional Japanese house, across from the Minamidera Art House. Definitely worth visiting if you want to learn more about the architect behind most of the buildings found on the Benesse Art Site. 

Yayoi Kusama's Yellow Pumpkin

Yayoi Kusama’s Pumpkins
There are two of Yayoi Kusama’s Pumpkins on Naoshima: the Red Pumpkin is at the Naoshima Ferry Terminal in the Miyanoura Area, and the Yellow Pumpkin is near the Benesse House Park.  They are staples of Naoshima and nice spots to take photos!

Check out the Benesse House official website for additional information on the Art Site, and the Naoshima Travel Guide for additional sights and activities on the island.

WHERE TO STAY

Benesse House Oval (photo courtesy of Iwan Baan)

Hotel Benesse House
The Hotel Benesse House is divided into three parts: the Park, the Beach and the Museum, which includes the Oval.  The hotel is architecturally exquisite,  every piece of furniture is well crafted and every detail has been well thought-out. We stayed at the Park and found it amazing, as our room was overlooking a garden of sculptures (a bit like Charles Trenet’s Jardin Extraordinaire!).  Yet, we were left wondering about the Oval, which is connected to the museum and is only accessible to hotel guests via monorail.  It was one of the best hotels we ever stayed at, and even though the rooms are pricey, we really recommend staying at the Benesse House.
Important Tip: make reservations well ahead of time because there are limited availabilities, especially at the Oval!

Check out the Naoshima Travel Guide for additional (and cheaper) accommodations on the island.
 

WHERE TO EAT

Issen Restaurant (photo courtesy of Iwan Baan)

Museum Restaurant Issen
Issen is located inside the Benesse House Museum.  To arrive at the restaurant, we walked across the museum until we reached one of the main galleries.  The setting was incredible, the service was excellent, and the food included a variety of Japanese traditional dishes that were both delicious and beautifully served.  After dinner, we were able to visit the museum in complete peacefulness. Note: you have to make a reservation.

HOW TO GET THERE

On our way to Naoshima on the JR Uno Line

There are several ways to get to Naoshima. In our case, we were traveling from Singapore and decided to go to Naoshima straight from Narita Airport (may sound crazy but totally doable thanks to Japan's amazing railway system).  A great tip we received at Narita was to transfer from the Narita Express to a Shinkansen (bullet train) at Shinagawa Station, which is a smaller train station and therefore easier to navigate than Tokyo Station.  From Shinagawa, we took a Nozomi Shinkansen (the fastest train category) to Okayama, where we switched to the JR Seto Ohashi Line from Okayama Station to Chayamachi Station.  At Chayamachi, we transferred to the JR Uno Line that took us to Uno Port.  We then walked from Uno Port Station to the ferry dock, which are a few meters away from each other.  Finally, we took the ferry to Naoshima.  When we arrived in Naoshima, the Benesse House shuttle bus (free for hotel guests) was waiting for us at the Ferry Terminal and took us to the Hotel Benesse House. 

Note: the best thing about traveling by train - aside from the mind-blowing efficiency of the Japanese railway system - is that you get to see the country.  As we approached Uno port, the landscape really changed to a more rural scenery.  On the trains from Okayama to Uno Port, we were the only none-Japanese passengers, traveling alongside commuters and children coming home from school. When we were lost, people helped us find our way and made sure we didn't miss our stop at Chayamachi to transfer the Uno Line.  It's a great way to interact with locals and see the less traveled parts of Japan!

Below is a summary of our itinerary from Narita Airport to Naoshima:

Narita Airport
Narita Express
|
Shinagawa Station
Transfer to Nozomi Shinkansen
|
Okayama Station
Transfer to JR Seto Ohashi Line
|
Chayamachi Station
Transfer to JR Uno Line
|
Uno Port Station
Transfer to Ferry Passenger Boat
|
Naoshima
Total travel time: approx. 8 hours

Additional directions can be found on the Benesse House website. We also discovered an alternative route by boat from Awaji Island to Naoshima, which is part of a two day tour of Awaji and Naoshima offered by Awaji Yume Tours.

Arriving at the Naoshima Ferry Terminal

Globe-Trotting Contributors: Marie-Adélaïde Mol and Rafael Fernández, with the help of Mary Seto, our globe-trotting friend from Japan, living in Panama City

Bali Bliss

Over the years, Bali has grown tremendously and attracts a lot of tourists, particularly along the coast from Kuta to Seminyak.  If you prefer to stay away from the crowds, we recommend staying around Ubud, about an hour away from Denpasar.  Ubud is still somewhat preserved and offers beautiful landscapes of rice terraces.  If you're looking for a place to relax and revitalize yourself while surrounded by nature, Ubud is the place to go.

WHAT TO SEE AND VISIT

The Green School
Entirely built with bamboo, the Green School was created with a didactic focus on green initiatives and lifestyle. The school is laid out in different sections carved in the rainforest with majestic bamboo structures.  A great display of a modern built form with indigenous materials, the Green School is a must see for architects and environmentalists.  The bamboo structures are amazing and the school looks like it came straight out of a science fiction movie. The Green School organizes daily visits and we recommend that you book your tour in advance.

The Green School

Tours: weekdays from Monday to Friday @ 4pm (no tours during public holidays), US$10 or 120,000 Rupiah per adult

Address: Jalan Raya Sibang Kaja, Banjar Saren, Abiansemal, Badung, 80352 Bali, Indonesia

WHERE TO STAY

Chapung SeBali

Chapung SeBali
Located a few kilometers away from Ubud near Keliki Village, Chapung blends Scandinavian modernism with Bali's tropical environment.  The hotel is composed of individual villas with a private pool and overlooking rice paddies.  The restaurant serves delicious food, mixing local and western flavors, with herbs and vegetables coming from the hotel's organic garden.  You can also rent a bike (for free if you booked directly through the hotel website) and explore the hotel's surroundings on wheels.  Although not inexpensive, we found that Chapung offers great quality accommodations and amazing service at a reasonable price, considering the rates for most private villa hotels in the Ubud area.
Tip: ask for Villa 6!
Note: during our last stay (in December 2013), we found out that the hotel was building a new section with hotel rooms and a pool.  We hope that by increasing the hotel capacity, Chapung won't lose its peacefulness and serenity.
Address: Jalan Raya Sebali, Keliki, Ubud, 80561 Bali, Indonesia
Tel: +62 361 898 9102 / +62 361 898 9103

WHERE TO EAT

Karsa Kafé
A short walk or bike ride away from Chapung SeBali, Karsa Kafé is a great lunch spot where you can enjoy a nasi goreng and fresh mango juice overlooking rice terraces.  The road is said to take you all the way to Ubud.  We haven't tried going all the way down to Ubud but the walk or bike ride along the rice fields and temples is definitely worth it!
Address: Bangkiang Sidem, Keliki, Tegallalang Gianyar, Bali, Indonesia
Tel: +62 817 344 658

View of the rice terraces from Karsa Kafé

WHERE TO HAVE A COFFEE 

F.R.E.A.K. Coffee
Famous among coffee drinkers in Ubud, F.R.E.A.K. has become an institution in Bali.  The original coffee shop is located in Ubud but they also have a branch at the entrance of the Green School, where you can have a cup of joe while waiting for your tour. Address: Jalan Silang Karang, Singekerta, Tebongkang, Ubud, Bali, Indonesia
Tel: +62 878 6212 9173
 

Globe-Trotting Contributors
Marie-Adélaïde & Rafael Fernández

Singapore Beyond Shopping

Singapore is famous for its shopping malls, particularly those on Orchard Road.  However, the “little red dot,” as Singapore is sometimes called, has a lot more to offer than shopping.  If you'd like to explore the city beyond Orchard Road, check out some of our favorite spots.

WHAT TO SEE AND VISIT

Marina Barrage

Marina Barrage
One of our top 3 hang-out spots in Singapore, Marina Barrage is a masterpiece of engineering and urban planning.  Functionally, it is a dam that catches rainwater to create a freshwater reservoir, and architecturally, it is one of Singapore’s best public spaces. On the weekend, locals go to Marina Barrage to have a picnic and relax, enjoying the panoramic views of Singapore’s impressive skyline.  It is one of the few places in the city where there always is a nice breeze, which is why it's a prime spot for kiting.  Also, if you’re interested in learning about the history of Singapore’s development and its careful planning for the future, visit the Sustainable Singapore Gallery - it's fun and very well done (the Gallery is open daily  from 9am to 9pm except Tuesday, and admission is free).
Address: 8 Marina Gardens Drive, Singapore 018951
Getting There: You can always take a cab to Marina Barrage. Alternatively, you can take the MRT to the Marina Bay Station where you can catch Bus 400 at Exit B or walk from the Marina Bay MRT Station Exit A (about a 30 min walk)

Garden Rhapsody @ the Supertree Grove

Gardens by the Bay
Built on reclaimed land and located next to Marina Barrage, Gardens by the Bay are one of Singapore’s latest attractions.  If you’re pressed for time, skip the greenhouses and go straight to the Supertree Grove to take a walk along the Skyway.  A great time to go to the Supertrees is at sunset.  You’ll get a beautiful view of the city’s skyline and when night falls, the Supertrees become alive with a light and sound show called Garden Rhapsody (the show starts daily at 7:45pm).  If you’re hungry, stop by the nearby Satay by the Bay and have some satays (grilled meat on skewers) while enjoying the waterfront.  Note: the satays are a bit pricey but still worth a try...
Address: 18 Marina Gardens Drive, Singapore 018953
Nearest MRT Station:  Bayfront or Marina Bay

Tiong Bahru
If you’ve had enough of skyscrapers, get a change of scenery by going to Tiong Bahru.  Built in the 1930s, the neighborhood has managed to preserve its authenticity while becoming a hip spot with small cafés, bakeries, boutiques and indie bookstores.  Make sure you stop by Books Actually, one of our favorite bookstores where you can find anything from best sellers to locally published authors, and a back room filled with vintage toys!

Books Actually
Address: 9 Yong Siak St, Singapore 168645
Tel: +65 6222 9195
Nearest MRT Station: Tiong Bahru (10 min walk to Yong Siak St)

    Books Actually Bookstore in Tiong Bahru

The Henderson Waves (photo courtesy of National Parks Board)

The Henderson Waves
If you enjoy hiking, go for a walk at the Henderson Waves, Singapore’s highest pedestrian bridge.  Suspended above the trees, you’ll walk through lush tropical trees, stroll by colonial Black and White houses, and wander along architecturally unique pedestrian bridges.  We recommend walking from the Henderson Waves at Henderson Rd to the Alexandra Arch at Alexandra Rd, which takes approximately 1 hr.  When you arrive at Alexandra Rd, cross the street and head over to Hort Park.  There, you can have a coffee and/or snack at the quirky Garden Café where you’ll be surrounded by flowers and plants of different varieties.
Note: this is a very easy hike.
Getting There: Take a cab to Henderson Road or take the MRT to Harbour Front Station Exit D. Then take Bus # 131, 145, 176, 408*, or 648 and alight at the bus stop along Henderson Road, and take the staircase up to Mount Faber Park

WHERE TO EAT

Maxwell Hawker Center (Tanjong Pagar)
Located in Chinatown, Maxwell is one the most famous food courts – aka Hawker Centers – in Singapore. You'll find lots of different food stalls, where you can have delicious local food for less than S$10.  We recommend trying out Chicken Rice and/or Fish Balls, two of Singapore’s local dishes. Typically, the most popular stalls have the longest line.
Note: a small pack of paper tissue on a table means that the table is “reserved” (or choped in local slang). In fact, make sure you bring your own paper tissue, not only to reserve your table but also because there are no paper napkins at Hawker Centers! Address:  1 Kadayanallur St (@ Maxwell Rd), Singapore 069184
Closest MRT Station: Tanjong Pagar or Chinatown

The Loft (photo courtesy of The Loft)

The Loft (Chinatown)
Tucked on the 1st floor of a traditional Chinese shophouse, The Loft makes great coffee and serves delicious waffles.  Nice spot for late breakfast or brunch.  The staff is very friendly and they have free WIFI.  As a pointer, The Loft is across the street from Maxwell.
Address:  268A South Bridge Rd (@ Smith St), Singapore 058817
Tel: +65 6221 2103
Closest MRT Station: Chinatown

Artistry (Bugis)
Located near Arab Street, Artistry is one of our favorite cafes/restaurants.  The small cafe/bar/restaurant has a nice terrace where you can have dinner and/or drinks.  They feature art exhibitions and sometimes host live music events inside. Nice place for a drink or a light lunch/brunch.
Address:  17 Jalan Pinang (@ Victoria St), Singapore 199149
Tel: +65 6298 2420
Closest MRT Station: Bugis Junction

PS Café @ Harding Road (photo courtesy of PS Café)

PS Café at Harding Road (Dempsey)
Located at the heart of Dempsey Hill and surrounded by lush greenery, PS Café serves delicious food in a relaxed atmosphere. Dempsey Hill used to be known as former British army barracks and the Central Manpower Base of Singapore (“CMPB”) but has since then been turned into a retail and lifestyle destination. PS Café can be a good spot to go to after visiting the Botanic Garden, which is located across from Dempsey Hill (on the other side of Holland Road).
Address: 28b Harding Rd, Singapore 249549
Tel / SMS: +65 9070 8782

Em by the River (Robertson Quay) 
Nice place for brunch with good food and an interesting décor (the furniture is made out of concrete or carved out of logs).  The restaurant has a great outdoor space where you can enjoy your meal or drinks by the river.  There are no MRT stations nearby so take a cab to get there.
Address: 1 Nanson Rd #01-05 of Gallery Hotel, Singapore 238909
Tel: +65 6836 9691

Strangers Reunion (Kampong Bahru)
Always bustling, Strangers Reunions is an eclectic café/restaurant mostly known for its waffles but also serving eggs and other dishes.  Nice spot for a late breakfast or lunch.  Expect a wait on weekends…
Address:  37 Kampong Bahru Rd, Singapore 169356
Tel: +65 6222 4869
Closest MRT Station: Outram Park
 

WHERE TO HAVE A COFFEE

Hand-drip coffee @ Just Want Coffee

Just Want Coffee Everton
Just Want Coffee – aka JWC – is a great hang out spot for a lazy Saturday afternoon and one of our favorite cafés.  It is located on the ground level of the Everton Park HDB, right across the street from The Pinnacle.  We recommend trying their Ethiopian hand-drip coffee, which is really tasty.  They also make delicious iced coco and pastries!
Address: 1 Everton Park (@ Neil Rd & Cantonment Rd), Singapore 081001
Tel: +65 6225 8115
Closest MRT Station: Outram Park

Nylon Coffee
If you’re a coffee lover, definitely stop by Nylon where coffee beans are freshly roasted at the back of the micro-roastery.  They just recently added a standing bar so you can enjoy your coffee in the AC! The café is hidden at the back of the Everton Park HDB.  To get there, go around Block 4 and look for the moustache: Nylon Coffee Roasters’ avatar.
Address: 4 Everton Park #01-40, Singapore 081001
Tel: +65 6220 2330
Closest MRT Station: Outram Park

Nylon Coffee Roasters (photo courtesy of Nylon Coffee blog)

WHERE TO HAVE DRINKS

Bar Stories (Arab Street)
Bespoke cocktails are en vogue and Bar Stories may have started the trend in Singapore.  Instead of handing you a drink menu, the waiter will ask you to reveal your favorite ingredients or the type of cocktail you’re in the mood for.  The result: a special concoction served in a funky martini glass or a smoking tea-jar.  A fun and delicious experience!
Address: 57A Haji Lane, Singapore 189250
Tel: +65 6298 0838
Closest MRT Station: Bugis Junction

The Screening Room Rooftop Bar (Ann Siang Hill)
Enjoy rooftop views of the hip and historic Ann Siang Hill and Club Street, once the home ground of traditional Chinese clan associations.  The bar is at the top of a beautiful heritage house. 
Address: 12 Ann Siang Rd, Singapore 069692
Tel: +65 6221 1694
Closest MRT Station: Chinatown

View from Level 33

Level 33 (CBD)
Located on the 33rd floor of the Standard Chartered tower in the Central Business District (aka CBD), the bar has one of the most stunning views of the Marina Bay. Make sure you arrive early because it can get a bit crowded, especially on weekends.  Otherwise, make a reservation and ask for a table at the terrace.
Address: 8 Marina Blvd, #33-01, MBFC Tower 1, Singapore 018981
Tel: +65 6834 3133

Ku Dé Ta (Marina Bay)
If you’re in the mood for clubbing, go to Ku Dé Ta for late night drinks and dancing.  From the top of the Marina Bay Sands, you’ll get an amazing view of Singapore by night.
Address: 1 Bayfront Avenue, Marina Bay Sands SkyPark, Singapore 018956
Tel: +65 6688 7688

Globe-Trotting Contributors
Marie-Adélaïde & Rafael Fernández
Previously based in Singapore, currently living in Panama City

Rafael + Marie-Adélaïde