Cultural Excursion to Mexico City

Located and developed on the site of former Aztec capital Tenochtitlan, Mexico City (a.k.a. Mexico D.F.) is one of Latin America’s most incredible cities in terms of art and modernist architecture.  One only needs to walk around the esplanade of the UNAM university campus to appreciate the sophistication of Mexican architecture and experience one of the best expressions of an authentic Latin American modernist identity.

Our globe-trotting friend Laura González Fierro, a talented architect and designer from Mexico City, shared her favorite spots in her hometown with a focus on architecture, history and local flavors.  Laura is the founder of +ADD, a studio dedicated to [Architecture + Design + Development].  She lived and practiced architecture in Mexico City, Paris and New York, and her practice is currently in NYC and Sao Paulo.

WHAT TO SEE AND VISIT

Note on Mexico City's Organization: Mexico City is divided into Delegaciones (Del.), which are "districts" within the city, and Colonias (Col.), which are "neighborhoods" within a delegación.  For more info, check out El Defe's website, which has great maps of Mexico City by colonia and delegación!

Note on Museums: most museums are closed on Mondays...

The fountain @ Museo Nacional de Antropologia (photo credit: @mnantropologia)

Museo Nacional de Antropologia
A beautiful building designed by Architect Pedro Ramírez Vázquez in 1964.  The fountain at the entrance is very famous and the museum is fantastic!
Address: Av. Paseo de la Reforma y Calzada Gandhi S/N, Col. Chapultepec Polanco, Del. Miguel Hidalgo, 11560 México, D.F. [MAP]
T: +52 55 4040 5300
Nearest Metro Station: Auditorio (Line 7) / Chapultepec (Line 1)

Museo Tamayo (photo credit: @eneltamayo)

Museo Tamayo
Located in Polanco, a very good museum of contemporary art, designed by Architects Teodoro González de León and Abraham Zabludovsky.
Address: Paseo de la Reforma 51 / esq. Gandhi, Col. Bosque de Chapultepec, Del. Miguel Hidalgo, 11580 México, D.F. [MAP]
T: +52 55 4122 8200
Nearest Metro Station: Chapultepec (Line 1) / Auditorio (Line 7)

The terrace @ Casa Luis Berragan (photo credit: Museo Casa Luis Barragán)

Museo Casa Luis Barragán
Our very own Mexican Pritzker winner – Luis Barragán. This place is magical, very nice experience in D.F.
Note: Visits are by appointment only so make sure you book in advance! For more info, check out the Casa Barragán website.
Address: General Francisco Ramírez 12-14, Col. Ampliación Daniel Garza, Del. Miguel Hidalgo, 11840 México, D.F. [MAP]
T: +52 55 5515 4908
Nearest Metro Station: Constituyentes (Line 7)

 

Museo Casa Estudio Diego Rivera y Frida Kahlo (photo credit: Estudio Diego Rivera)

San Angel Neighborhood 
If you go to San Angel Inn (see Restaurants section below for more info), take a walk through San Angel neighborhood, it’s very nice.  It is also the neighborhood where the Museo Casa Estudio Diego Rivera y Frida Kahlo is located.  If you’re in the area, make sure you stop by!

Museo Casa Estudio Diego Rivera y Frida Kahlo
The House-Studio of Diego Rivera and Frida Kahlo was designed by Mexican Painter and Architect Juan O'Gorman, who was a close friend of Diego Rivera. Built in 1931, it was one of the first buildings in Mexico City to combine organic Mexican Architecture with modern design ideals such as efficiency and functionality.
Address: Av. Altavista esq. Diego Rivera, Col. San Ángel Inn, Del. Álvaro Obregón, 01060 México, D.F. [MAP]
T: +52 55 8647 5470

UNAM Library (photo credit: Visit Mexico)

UNAM
The National University, Universidad Nacional Autónoma de México (a.k.a UNAM), is a monument to Modern Architecture and its campus is classified as a UNESCO World Heritage site.  Make sure you see the Biblioteca Central, famous for its murals by Mexican Painter and Architect Juan O'Gorman.  Also, in the cultural section you have the Espacio Escultórico de la UNAM, a very cool sculpture to visit.

Espacio Escultórico
Address: Mario de La Cueva, Col. Ciudad Universitaria, Del. Coyoacán, México, D.F. [MAP]

Bibilioteca Central
Address: Circuito Interior S/N,  Col. Ciudad Universitaria, Del. Coyoacán, 04510 México, D.F. [MAP]
T: +52 55 5622 1603

MUAC
Museum of Contemporary Art located in UNAM at the south end of the city. Very cool building designed by Mexican Architect Architect Teodoro González de León!
Address: Av de Los Insurgentes sur 3000, Col. Ciudad Universitaria, Del. Coyoacán, 04510 México, D.F. [MAP]
T: +52 55 5622 6972

Museo Universitario de Arte Contemporáneo (photo credit: MUAC via CNN Mexico)

Casa Azul in Coyoacán (photo credit: Visit Mexico)

Coyoacán
Located in the south of the city in Colonia Coyoacán.  The main plaza is beautiful and the Museo Frida Kahlo, the famous Casa Azul, is there.

Museo Frida Kahlo
Address: Londres 247, Col. Del Carmen, Del. Coyoacán, 04100 México, D.F. [MAP]
T: +52 55 5554 5999

Zócalo a.k.a. Plaza de la Constitución (photo credit: Visit Mexico)

Zócalo
The main plaza of Mexico City, where government, religion and the people collide.
Address: Plaza de la Constitución S/N, Col. Centro, Del. Cuauhtémoc, 06010 México, D.F. [MAP]
Nearest Metro Station: Zócalo (Line 2)

If you love books and have a thing for libraries (as we do), check out the following libraries! 

Bookshop @ La Ciudadela - The City of Books  (photo credit: Jaime Navarro via Dezeen)

La Ciudadela - The City of Books
In 2011, the National Council for Culture and the Arts, el Conaculta, launched the initiative to restore La Ciudadela as the “City of Books” and turn it into a cultural hub for Mexico DF housing a library as well as cultural programs and activities.  Architects Bernardo Gómez-Pimienta and Alejandro Sánchez were selected to renovate the 18th century building with contemporary architecture and technologies. One of the renovated sections is a bookshop with hundreds of wooden boxes mounted to the walls and ceilings, and a glass floor giving the space a levitating effect.  For more information on the renovation of this historic building, read this Dezeen article and the official Conaculta website (the latter is in Spanish only). 
Address: Biblioteca de México, Plaza de la Ciudadela 4, Col. Centro, Del. Cuauhtémoc, 06040 México, D.F. [MAP]
T: +52 55 4155 0830
Nearest Metro Station:  Balderas (Lines 1 and 3)

Jaime García Terres Library designed by arquitectura 911sc (photo credit: Jaime Navarro)

Personal Libraries @ La Ciudadela
In addition to the renovation of La Ciudadela, el Conaculta organized a competition and commissioned 5 architects to design personal libraries for celebrated Mexican writers: José Luis Martínez, Antonio Castro Leal, Jaime García Terres, Alí Chumacero and Carlos Mosiváis.  The intention was to design a dedicated library for each writer in order to house their private collections (donated to the state when they passed away).  Some of the collections have up to 40,000 books!  The result is beautiful and each library has its own defining character.
Address: Biblioteca de México, Plaza de la Ciudadela 4, Col. Centro, Del. Cuauhtémoc, 06040 México, D.F. [MAP]
T: +52 55 4155 0830
Nearest Metro Station:  Balderas (Lines 1 and 3)

The Biblioteca Vasconcelos was designed by Alberto Kalach, one of the best architects in Mexico at the moment.  In this library, the bookshelves are hanging from the main slab, giving the impression they are suspended. In the middle of this beautiful space there is a sculpture by Gabriel Orozco called Mátrix Móvil (the skeleton of a whale with motifs in graphite).
Address: Eje 1 norte Mosqueta s/n esq. Aldama, Col. Buenavista, Del. Cuauhtémoc, 06350 México D.F. [MAP]
T: +52 55 9157 2800
Nearest Metro Station: Buenavista (Line B)

La Biblioteca Vasconcelos (photo credit:  Tax Arquitectura via Design Boom)

WHERE TO STAY (in order of preference)

Rooftop Terrace @ Hotel Condesa DF (photo credit: Hotel Condesa)

Condesa DF
This hotel is really gorgeous and very well located.  The terrace is really nice and the hotel is located in Condesa, which is a very boho neighborhood where many cool things are located.
Address:  Av. Veracruz 102, Col. Condesa, Del. Cuauhtémoc, 06700 Mexico, D.F. [MAP]
T: +52 55 5241 2600

Pool Terrace @ Downtown Mexico (photo credit: Downtown Mexico)

Downtown Mexico
This hotel is part of the same group but located in downtown (Centro), which is all colonial and absolutely gorgeous but it might be too intense for your first time in DF as El Centro Historico is crowded, dynamic, popular and intense in general. I LOVE el Centro but maybe you spend one morning or afternoon there rather than staying there. The good thing about this hotel is the building and great refurbishment in a modern style, great combination of old and new, plus it’s close to the Airport.
Address:  Isabel la Católica 30, Col. Centro, Del. Cuauhtémoc, 06010 México, D.F. [MAP]
T: + 52 55 5130 6830

Terrace @ Hotel Habita (photo credit: Hotel Habita)

Hotel Habita
Same group but located in Polanco, which is a very nice area—more residential and upscale but less hip!
Address:  Av. Presidente Masaryk 201, Col. Polanco, Del. Miguel Hidalgo, 11560 México, D.F. [MAP]
T: +52 (55) 5282 3100

RESTAURANTS

Note: try to book restaurants in advance!

Contramar (photo credit: Contramar via Conde Nast Traveler)

Contramar
This is an iconic place you just can't miss!!! The ambiance is fabulous and the food excellent (order Tostadas de atun Contramar y Pescado a la talla), it’s where all the hip and creative people go to all the time. Mau the host is adorable!  The idea is to go there at 3PM and leave at 6, 7, or 8! Fridays are amazing there. Located in Roma-Condesa.
Address: Durango 200, Col. Roma, Del. Cuauhtémoc, 06700 México D.F. [MAP]
T: +52 55 55 5514 3169

MeroToro (photo credit: Sabores de Mexico)

MeroToro
Located in Condesa and same owners as Contramar is this delicious restaurant with a cuisine from Baja California, excellent!
Address: Amsterdam 204, Col. Condesa, Del. Cuauhtémoc, 03020 México D.F. [MAP]
T: +52 55 5564 7799

Rosetta Restaurante (photo credit: Rosetta)

Rosetta
Located in Colonia Roma (one of the most beautiful neighborhoods in DF; it’s very parisian or french in a way, old houses from 1900's and little plazas). This restaurant is delicious and beautiful, great pastas and bread - all made there. 
Address: Colima 166, Col. Roma, Del. Cuauhtémoc, 06700 México, D.F. [MAP]
T: +52 55 5533 7804

Panadería Rosetta
Fabulous place for breakfast!  They have 2 locations (one of them is in Roma) and make really really good bread (same owner as Rosetta).

HAVRE
Havre 73, Col. Juárez, Del. Cuauhtémoc, 06600 México, D.F. [MAP]
T: +52 55 5207 7065

ROMA
Colima 179, Col. Roma, Del. Cuauhtémoc, 06700 México, D.F. [MAP]
T: +52 55 5207 2976

Panadería Rosetta (photo credit: Rosetta)

Belmondo (photo credit: Time Out Mexico)

Belmondo
Really nice small place for salad and sandwiches, located in Colonia Roma.
Address: Calle Tabasco 109, Col. Roma, Del. Cuauhtémoc, 06700 México, D.F. [MAP]
T: +52 55 6273 2079

San Angel Inn
This was an old Hacienda located outside of Mexico City long time ago.  As the city grew it ended up within the city in one of the most beautiful neighborhoods in the southern part of DF.  I try to go every time I am in the city, I love the ambiance and it’s a classic! Try to seat at the terrace, otherwise inside is very nice too and the service is amazing.  It’s all Mexican food and really good.
Address: Diego Rivera 50 y Altavista, Col. San Angel Inn, Del. Álvaro Obregón, 01060 México, D.F. [MAP]
T: +52 55 5616 1402

San Angel Inn (photo credit: The American Academy of Hospitality Sciences)

Pujol (photo credit: Fiamma Piacentini for Pujol)

Pujol
This place is amazing. The owner is famous Mexican chef Enrique Olvera and it’s a fantastic experience. You will experience a high end modern Mexican cuisine that makes you travel through the subconscious of Mexico. A MUST!
Address: Petrarca 254, Col. Polanco, Del. Miguel Hidalgo, 11550 México, D.F. [MAP]
T: +52 55 5545 3507

Quintonil (photo credit: Quintonil)

Quintonil
Located in Polanco.  The sous-chef from Pujol created this great restaurant with a modern version of Mexican food. It’s very interesting and delicious!
Address: Newton 55, Col. Polanco, Del. Álvaro Obregón, 11560 México, D.F. [MAP]
T: +52 55 5280 2680

Maximo Bistrot
Another disciple of Enrique Olvera. This place is amazing and located in Colonia Roma.
Address: Tonalá 133, Col. Roma, Del. Cuauhtémoc, 06700 México, D.F. [MAP]
T: +52 55 5264 4291

Maximo Bistrot Local (photo credit: Maximo Bistrot)

CANTINAS AND BARS

Covadonga Cantina (photo credit: Art Deco Mexico)

Covadonga Cantina El Escudo
Located in Roma-Condesa this is a very cool cantina in a very well located neighborhood. It has become very hip also to spend afternoons in cantinas!
Address:  Calle Puebla 121, Col. Roma Norte, Del. Cuauhtémoc, 06700  México, D.F. [MAP]
T: +52 55 5533 2701

La Opera Cantina (photo credit: Ciudad de México Zona WiFi)

La Opera
Located in Centro.  A very pompous cantina in the heart of the city. You can eat in all cantinas and this one has a very Spanish menu...
Address: 5 de Mayo 10, Col. Alameda Central, Del. Cuauhtémoc, 06010 México, D.F. [MAP]
T: +52 55 5512 8959

La Faena (photo credit: Time Out Mexico)

La Faena
Located in Centro.  I love this cantina, this one is basically just to have drinks. Very authentic!
Address:  Calle Venustiana Carranza 49-B, Col. Centro, Del. Cuauhtémoc, México, D.F. [MAP]
T: +52 55 5510 4417

M.N. Roy
An underground place that became very hip. Designed by Emmanuel Picault, a frenchy who came to Mexico to deal with vintage furniture and created an empire. 
Note: can be a bit tough to get in on the weekends…
Address:  Mérida 186, Col. Roma Norte, Del. Cuauhtémoc, 06700 México, D.F. [MAP]

M.N. Roy Exterior Facade (photo credit: Dezeen)

M.N. Roy Interior by Emmanuel Picault and Ludwig Godefroy. (photo credit: Dezeen)

Globe-Trotting Contributors
Recommendations by Laura González Fierro, originally from Mexico City (Mexico), currently living and working between Sao Paulo (Brazil) and NYC (USA)
Illustrations by Rafael Fernández and web design by Marie-Adélaïde Mol, previously based in Singapore and currently living in Panama City (Panama)

Laura

Marie-Adelaide + Rafael

Stopover in Dubai

Dubai is a great city to make a stopover if you’re traveling from the Americas to Asia (and vice-versa).  We stopped in Dubai for 2 days as we were moving from Singapore to Panama, and discovered that Dubai has far more to offer than we had expected.  Beyond its gigantic malls and exuberant architecture, Dubai has a fascinating history and a growing local art scene.  Our globe-trotting friends – Maru, Wolfgang and Andrés – who lived in Dubai, shared their favorite spots and helped us compose the following recommendations.

WHAT TO SEE AND VISIT

Burj Khalifa (photo courtesy of Arabian Business)

Burj Khalifa
Tallest man-made structure in the world, 830 meters (2,722 ft). To visit the Burj Khalifa, you can either go to the observation deck called At The Top, or go for drinks or tea at At.Mosphere (the lounge) in the Armani Hotel, which is located in the Burj Khalifa. The best time for both plans is 5-5:30 (sunset) because you will be able to enjoy the view both by day and by night.
Note: it is important to make reservations in advance!
Address: 1 Sheikh Mohammed bin Rashid Blvd, Dubai, United Arab Emirates [MAP]
Metro Station: Burj Khalifa/ Dubai Mall

The Dubai Mall (photo courtesy of Dubai Mall)

The Dubai Mall
Biggest mall in the world. Connects to At the Top in Burj Khalifa, to the Dubai Fountain and Souk Al Bahar. Don’t miss the aquarium, the Level Shoe District, the Fashion Avenue and Kinokuniya Book World (nice, huge, bookstore).
Address: Financial Center Road, Near Souk Al Bahar Bridge, DownTown Dubai, United Arab Emirates [MAP]
Metro Station: Burj Khalifa/Dubai Mall (Red Line)

Book World by Kinokuniya
Adddress: The Dubai Mall, Level 2, DownTown Dubai, United Arab Emirates [MAP]
T: +971 4 434 0111

The Dubai Fountain (photo courtesy of Dubai Mall)

Dancing Fountains/Dubai Fountain
Similar to the Fountains of Bellagio in Las Vegas, they are the world’s largest dancing fountains. You can see the Dancing Fountains from the Dubai Mall or Souk Al Bahar. The show schedule is as follows: 1 & 1:30PM (except Fridays: 1:30pm & 2pm) and every 30 minutes from 6PM to 11PM.
Metro Station: Burj Khalifa/Dubai Mall (Red Line)

Mall of the Emirates
Our favorite mall, not as modern or big as the Dubai Mall but much more manageable. Ski Dubai is located in the mall. The concept is cool (an indoor ski slope) but in our opinion, not a must.
Address: Al Barsha 1, Dubai, United Arab Emirates [MAP]
Metro Station: Mall of the Emirates (Red Line)

Mall of the Emirates (photo courtesy of Dubai Metro)

Souk Madinat Jumeirah
Reproduction of a traditional Arabian souk. Beautiful! A Must!  Great restaurants are also there, such as The Meat Co. (steakhouse).  Located at the heart of the Madinat Jumeirah Resort, the souk is open daily from 10am to 11pm.  To get there, you can take the Metro (Red Line) to the Mall of the Emirates Metro Station and take a taxi from there.
Address: Interchange 4, Exit No 4, Jumeirah Rd, Dubai, United Arab Emirates [MAP]
T: +971 4 366 8888

Souk Madinat Jumeirah (photo courtesy of Jumeirah)

Burj Al Arab (photo courtesy of Jumeirah)

Burj Al Arab
Its architecture is stunning however, the décor inside is very arabesque and in our opinion, a bit tacky.  Nevertheless, it is supposedly the most luxurious and only 7 star hotel in the world.  You can only go inside if you are staying there or have brunch/lunch/tea/dinner reservations.  For light snacks, afternoon tea or drinks, go to the Sky View Bar on the 27th Floor (be ready to spend money!).
Note: reservations are a must!  Best way to get there is by car/taxi/Uber.
Address: Jumeirah Beach Rd, Jumeirah 3, Dubai, United Arab Emirates  [MAP]
T: +971 4 301 7777

Dubai International Financial Centre (photo courtesy of Arabian Business)

Dubai International Financial Centre (DIFC)
Dubai’s financial centre.  Very trendy area at night.  The Ritz Carlton downtown is located here and there are a bunch of trendy art galleries and amazing restaurants such as Zuma, Roberto’s, La Petite Maison and Gaucho (all excellent, see additional details in the "Where to Eat" section below). 
Address: Sheikh Zayed Road, Dubai, United Arab Emirates [MAP]
Metro Station:  Financial Centre (Red Line)

Below are a few cultural sights worth seeing in Dubai’s historic district:

Dubai Museum (photo courtesy of Jumeirah)

Dubai Museum
If you’re interested in finding out about the history of Dubai, check out the Dubai Museum.  You literally “walk through the years,” and get to see how Dubai grew from a small fishing town to a global city and commercial center for the Gulf Region. Really worth a visit!
Address: Al Fahidi Fort – Opposite Grand Mosque, Near Arabian Court Hotel – Al Fahidi St, Dubai, United Arab Emirates [MAP]
Metro Station: Al Fahidi (Green Line)
T: +971 4 353 1862
 

Al Bastakiya Historical Neighborhood
After the Dubai Museum, check out Dubai's historical neighborhood, located a few minutes away from the Al Fahidi Fort/Dubai Museum.  To get there, walk along Al Fahidi St., away from the Museum and towards the roundabout. The neighborhood is pedestrian-only and is a nice oasis of tranquility.  Look for XVA Gallery, stop by the café and try their legendary mint lemonade!  XVA Café is also a good spot to have lunch (tasty local food at reasonable prices).

XVA Café (photo courtesy of XVA Art Hotel & Gallery)

XVA Café
Open daily from 7 am to 10 pm
Address: Al Bastakiya, off Al-Fahidi round about, Al Fahidi St, Dubai, United Arab Emirates [MAP]
Metro Station: Al Fahidi (Green Line)
T: +971 4 353 5383

Gold Souk
A souk dedicated to gold.  Touristy but fun to see the daily gold rate that appears on digital billboards displayed along the souk.  Be ready to get hassled by vendors selling fake designer bags and watches (just act uninterested and they will leave you alone).  The souk is quite small and can be visited quickly.
Address: d – 24 D 85, Dubai, United Arab Emirates [MAP]
Metro Station: Al Ras (Green Line)

The Gold Souk

Deira Spice Souk
A short walk from the Gold Souk, the Spice Souk is a bit touristy but you’ll be able to see – and smell – all sorts of colorful and fragrant spices from the region.
Address: D 85, Dubai, United Arab Emirates [MAP]
Metro Station: Al Ras (Green Line)

The Spice Souk (photo courtesy of Dubai Tourism)

If you’re into contemporary art and want to get off the tourist track, check out the Al Quoz Industrial Zone, where many local artists have their workshops and galleries.

Al Quoz Industrial Zone

There are many cool art spaces in Al Quoz and we only got to see a few because of time-constraints (our 2-day trip was too short!). 

We recommend that you check out Alserkal Avenue where you’ll find art spaces, including galleries, workshops and collaborative spaces.  We also wanted to go to The Courtyard but didn't have time to make it there.

Alserkal Avenue
Address: Street 8, Al Quoz 1 (EXIT 43 off of Sheikh Zayed Rd, Dubai, United Arab Emirates [MAP]
T: +971 50 556 9797

At Alserkal Avenue, stop by A4 Space, a collaborative space for artists, writers and the culturally curious to create, connect and collaborate.  Check out the cultural library at The Loft and have a coffee at Appetite Café, both located inside A4 Space.  Look up the calendar of events to see what's going on while you're in Dubai!

To get to Alserkal Avenue, you can take the Metro (Red Line) to either Noor Bank or First Gulf Bank (Gold & Diamond Park) and take a cab from there.  Additional information on how to get there can be found here. 

Note: it can be difficult to find a cab in Al Quoz to make it back Downtown around rush hour (5-5:30pm) so make sure you plan ahead.

A4 Space / The Loft (photo courtesy of Alserkal Avenue)

WHERE TO EAT

Wafi Gourmet / Dubai Mall Branch (photo courtesy of Wafi Gourmet)

Wafi Gourmet (Lebanese)
Delicious and authentic Lebanese cuisine.  Serves a wide selection of mezze, kebabs and seafood.  The Dubai Mall branch is located a few steps from the Burj Khalifah and has a nice terrace, where locals have shisha while enjoying the view of the Burj Khalifa Lake.  Good spot for lunch or dinner.
Address: Lower Ground floor, Dubai Mall, Downtown Burj Khalifa [MAP]
T: +971 4 330 8297

La Petite Maison (photo courtesy of La Petite Maison)

La Petite Maison (French)
Very trendy. Located in DIFC (Downtown Dubai).
Address: Gate Village No, 8, Dubai International Financial Center, 312th Road, Dubai, United Arab Emirates [MAP]
Metro Station:  Financial Centre (Red Line)
T: +971 4 439 0505

Roberto's (photo courtesy of Roberto's)

Roberto’s (Italian)
Delicious and trendy. Located in DIFC (Downtown Dubai).
Address: The Bay Gate, Dubai International Financial Center, Dubai, United Arab Emirates [MAP]
Metro Station:  Financial Centre (Red Line)
T: +971 4 386 0066

The Meat Co. (Steakhouse)
Great selection of steaks but also serves fish. Located by the waterway in Souk Madinat.  Nice spot for dinner.
Address:  Souk Madinat Jumeirah, Dubai, United Arab Emirates [MAP]
T: +971 4 368 6040

MeatCo @ Souk Madinat (photo courtesy of The Meat Co.)

Pai Thai (Thai)
Located in Al Qasr Hotel, one of the boutique hotels in Madinat Jumeirah. Go to Souk Madinat and take a small boat that takes you to the restaurant.
Address: Al Qasr, Madinat Jumeirah Resort, Al Sufouh Road, Dubai, United Arab Emirates [MAP]
T: +971 4 366 5866

Pierchic (Seafood)
Super romantic.  Expensive but has the best view of Burj Al Arab.  Located at the end of the pier at Al Qasr, Madinat Jumeirah.  Access from Al Qasr pool and beach area.
Address: Al Qasr, Madinat Jumeirah Resort, Al Sufouh Road, Dubai, United Arab Emirates [MAP]
T: +971 4 366 5866
 

Pierchic (photo courtesy of Jumeirah)

WHERE TO GO OUT

101 Lounge & Bar (photo courtesy of One & Only The Palm)

101 Lounge & Bar
Beautiful for drinks at sunset time 5:30PM. A Must! Located in the One & Only The Palm (Palm Jumeirah).
Address: West Crescent, The Palm Jumeirah, Dubai, United Arab Emirates [MAP]
T: +971 4 440 1030

The Act (photo courtesy of The Act)

The Act
Combines performances, music and good Peruvian food. Located in the Shangri-la.
Address: Shangri-La Hotel, 42nd floor, Sheikh Zayed Road, Dubai, United Arab Erimates [MAP]
Metro Station: Financial Centre
T: +971 4 355 1116

Globe-Trotting Contributors
Maru Velez and Wolfgang Harten, previously based in Dubai and currently living in Quito (Ecuador)
Andrés Pages, previously based in Dubai and currently living in Panama City (Panama)
Marie-Adélaïde Mol and Rafael Fernandez, previously based in Singapore and currently living in Panama City (Panama)

Maru + Wolfgang

Andrés

Marie-Adelaide + Rafael

A Day in Teshima

We found out about Teshima while visiting the Chichu Art Museum in Naoshima, where we came across photos of the Teshima Art Museum and other art installations on the island.  Our itinerary was very tight and we only had a day left in Naoshima but with the help of a very friendly receptionist at the Benesse House, we devised a plan to make a small detour via Teshima before heading to our next destination – Kobe.  Teshima is amazing and if you’re planning to go all the way to Naoshima, we really recommend adding a day in Teshima to your itinerary.

WHAT TO SEE AND VISIT

Teshima Art Musueum (photo courtesy of Iwan Baan)

Teshima Art Museum
The crown jewel of Teshima, this museum is one of the most extraordinary pieces of contemporary architecture in the world.  The Teshima Art Museum is the product of a collaboration between architect Ryue Nishizawa and artist Rei Naito.  As you approach the museum site, you will be drawn into an intriguing organic shaped structure that hugs the landscape around it.  In its interior, an incredible vaulted space will absorb you into a silent experience of reflection and contemplation of water droplets gliding through the concrete surface.  You can’t miss this architectural wonder.  [MAP]

Les Archives du Coeur (photo courtesy of Yasuhide Kuge)

Les Archives du Coeur
Located on the east end of Teshima,  Les Archives du Coeur (“Heart Archives") by French artist Christian Boltanski is an art installation dedicated to record and archive the heartbeats of all its visitors.  After recording your heartbeat, you will enter a chamber where the recorded heartbeats (including yours if you choose to) will be the focus of an incredible audio-visual installation.  A truly out-of-body experience!  [MAP]

Due to our tight schedule, we could only visit a few installations but you can find out about other art sites on Teshima via the Art Setouchi website. 

Note: some of the artworks such as Tom Na H-iu by Mariko Mori and Distant Memory by Chiharu Shiota’s are closed during winter (from mid-November to end of March).

WHERE TO HAVE A COFFEE (OR TEA)

Café Il Vento
What appears to be a traditional Japanese house on the outside, is in fact a café with a psychedelic décor in the inside.  The artwork/café, also called Was du liebst, bring dich auch zum weinen  (“what you love, will also make you cry” in German), was designed by German artist Tobias Rehberger.  A great spot to have coffee and delicious home-made cakes after exploring the island!

Café Il Vento / Was du liebst, bring dich auch zum weinen

Teshima Art Museum Café (photo courtesy of Wallpaper*)

Teshima Art Museum Café
Designed by architect Ryue Nishizawa, the café is like a droplet of the Art Museum, very minimalist and zen. Try out their rice balls or their delicious donuts made with rice grown in the rice terraces of Teshima.

HOW TO GET THERE

From/To Naoshima
There is a ferry boat that runs between Miyanoura Port in Naoshima and Ieura Port in Teshima.   The boat ride takes approximately 20 minutes and costs 600 yen/person.
[Naoshima/Teshima Ferry Timetables]

From/To Uno Port
The ferry boat from/to Uno Port makes stops at both Ieura Port and Karato Port in Teshima.  The boat ride takes from 40 minutes (to Ieura) to an hour (to Karato), and costs between 750 and 1000 yen. 
[Uno/Teshima Ferry Timetables]

Teshima Passenger Ferry Boat

Note:  You can find additional information on how to get to Teshima on the Japan-Guide site.
 

HOW TO GET AROUND TESHIMA

Teshima Local Bus (photo courtesy of Japan-Guide)

The day we went to Naoshima was rainy so we got around by local bus (200 yen/ride) and by walk.  However, if you’re there on a sunny day, another option is to rent a bike so you can explore the island on your own schedule (the local bus doesn’t come by very often).

Note: The Art Setouchi website recommends renting pedelecs (power assisted bicycles) due to the steep hills in some parts of the island.  Bicycles can be rented on the South Side of the Ieura port terminal building from 9:00-16:00 (1,000 yen for 4 hours; 100 yen every additional hour; 40 pedelecs.  Closed on Tuesday, or on Wednesday if Tuesday is a national holiday).


OTHER USEFUL TIPS 

Baggage Check
If you’re visiting Teshima on the go (with your luggage), there is a baggage check service (300 yen/bag) at the Ieura Port Ferry Terminal, from 8:30am to 5pm.  We used the baggage check service and it was great!
 

Globe-Trotting Contributors
Marie-Adélaïde Mol and Rafael Fernández

Exploring Naoshima

Naoshima is one of the most amazing places we've ever visited. After an epic journey by air, land and sea, arriving in Naoshima was like landing in an oasis of nature and culture. If you’re into architecture, art, philosophy, and want to get off the usual tourist track in Japan, then Naoshima is for you.  The trip can be long and arduous but the journey to get there is part of the experience.  If you can, we recommend staying at least 3 full days so you can also explore Naoshima's sister islands, Teshima and Inujima.

WHAT TO SEE AND VISIT

Lee Ufan Museum

Lee Ufan Museum
We arrived at the museum on a late morning, after getting dropped off by the Benesse House shuttle bus that stops at the different art sites on the island. Perhaps a prelude to the Chichu Art Museum, the Lee Ufan Museum can be found nestled in the hills between the Benesse House Museum and the Chichu Art Museum. This pavilion-size structure gives you a preview of Tadao Ando ’s ideas for the island's buildings as spaces of retreat and reflection.

Chichu Art Museum (photo courtesy of Iwan Baan)

Chichu Art Museum
A short walk from Lee Ufan, the Chichu Art Museum is the crownpiece of Naoshima Island. Also designed by Tadao Ando, the museum leads its visitors through a journey of art installations by Claude Monet, James Turrell and Walter de Maria.
What makes Chichu truly unique is that the museum was carefully designed by Ando to best exhibit the artworks. Each art installation was beyond our imagination and we were mesmerized by the perfect harmony between the space and the artworks. Exploring the museum is an exterior-interior experience realized by Ando through his masterful use of light and concrete.   The truth is that words don’t do justice to this place, and you have to go there to see and experience this one of a kind museum and architectural masterpiece. 

Art House Project (photo courtesy of Benesse House)

Art House Project
The Art House Project consists of a series of 1- or 2-storey traditional Japanese houses scattered among Honmura District, Naoshima’s main residential area. Stepping inside the traditional houses, you'll discover incredible modern art installations.

Start at Honmura Lounge & Archive where you can get your ticket (we recommend the option that gives you access to all the houses) and a small map to navigate the labyrinth of streets of Honmura. While visiting the Art House Project, we met a really cool couple of Columbia University Law Professors with whom we explored the different houses and art installations.  It was a blast!
 

Ando Museum (photo courtesy of Benesse House)

Ando Museum
The Ando Museum is a great little museum that showcases Tadao Ando’s work as an architect, including hand-drawn sketches and models.  The museum is located in a traditional Japanese house, across from the Minamidera Art House. Definitely worth visiting if you want to learn more about the architect behind most of the buildings found on the Benesse Art Site. 

Yayoi Kusama's Yellow Pumpkin

Yayoi Kusama’s Pumpkins
There are two of Yayoi Kusama’s Pumpkins on Naoshima: the Red Pumpkin is at the Naoshima Ferry Terminal in the Miyanoura Area, and the Yellow Pumpkin is near the Benesse House Park.  They are staples of Naoshima and nice spots to take photos!

Check out the Benesse House official website for additional information on the Art Site, and the Naoshima Travel Guide for additional sights and activities on the island.

WHERE TO STAY

Benesse House Oval (photo courtesy of Iwan Baan)

Hotel Benesse House
The Hotel Benesse House is divided into three parts: the Park, the Beach and the Museum, which includes the Oval.  The hotel is architecturally exquisite,  every piece of furniture is well crafted and every detail has been well thought-out. We stayed at the Park and found it amazing, as our room was overlooking a garden of sculptures (a bit like Charles Trenet’s Jardin Extraordinaire!).  Yet, we were left wondering about the Oval, which is connected to the museum and is only accessible to hotel guests via monorail.  It was one of the best hotels we ever stayed at, and even though the rooms are pricey, we really recommend staying at the Benesse House.
Important Tip: make reservations well ahead of time because there are limited availabilities, especially at the Oval!

Check out the Naoshima Travel Guide for additional (and cheaper) accommodations on the island.
 

WHERE TO EAT

Issen Restaurant (photo courtesy of Iwan Baan)

Museum Restaurant Issen
Issen is located inside the Benesse House Museum.  To arrive at the restaurant, we walked across the museum until we reached one of the main galleries.  The setting was incredible, the service was excellent, and the food included a variety of Japanese traditional dishes that were both delicious and beautifully served.  After dinner, we were able to visit the museum in complete peacefulness. Note: you have to make a reservation.

HOW TO GET THERE

On our way to Naoshima on the JR Uno Line

There are several ways to get to Naoshima. In our case, we were traveling from Singapore and decided to go to Naoshima straight from Narita Airport (may sound crazy but totally doable thanks to Japan's amazing railway system).  A great tip we received at Narita was to transfer from the Narita Express to a Shinkansen (bullet train) at Shinagawa Station, which is a smaller train station and therefore easier to navigate than Tokyo Station.  From Shinagawa, we took a Nozomi Shinkansen (the fastest train category) to Okayama, where we switched to the JR Seto Ohashi Line from Okayama Station to Chayamachi Station.  At Chayamachi, we transferred to the JR Uno Line that took us to Uno Port.  We then walked from Uno Port Station to the ferry dock, which are a few meters away from each other.  Finally, we took the ferry to Naoshima.  When we arrived in Naoshima, the Benesse House shuttle bus (free for hotel guests) was waiting for us at the Ferry Terminal and took us to the Hotel Benesse House. 

Note: the best thing about traveling by train - aside from the mind-blowing efficiency of the Japanese railway system - is that you get to see the country.  As we approached Uno port, the landscape really changed to a more rural scenery.  On the trains from Okayama to Uno Port, we were the only none-Japanese passengers, traveling alongside commuters and children coming home from school. When we were lost, people helped us find our way and made sure we didn't miss our stop at Chayamachi to transfer the Uno Line.  It's a great way to interact with locals and see the less traveled parts of Japan!

Below is a summary of our itinerary from Narita Airport to Naoshima:

Narita Airport
Narita Express
|
Shinagawa Station
Transfer to Nozomi Shinkansen
|
Okayama Station
Transfer to JR Seto Ohashi Line
|
Chayamachi Station
Transfer to JR Uno Line
|
Uno Port Station
Transfer to Ferry Passenger Boat
|
Naoshima
Total travel time: approx. 8 hours

Additional directions can be found on the Benesse House website. We also discovered an alternative route by boat from Awaji Island to Naoshima, which is part of a two day tour of Awaji and Naoshima offered by Awaji Yume Tours.

Arriving at the Naoshima Ferry Terminal

Globe-Trotting Contributors: Marie-Adélaïde Mol and Rafael Fernández, with the help of Mary Seto, our globe-trotting friend from Japan, living in Panama City

Bali Bliss

Over the years, Bali has grown tremendously and attracts a lot of tourists, particularly along the coast from Kuta to Seminyak.  If you prefer to stay away from the crowds, we recommend staying around Ubud, about an hour away from Denpasar.  Ubud is still somewhat preserved and offers beautiful landscapes of rice terraces.  If you're looking for a place to relax and revitalize yourself while surrounded by nature, Ubud is the place to go.

WHAT TO SEE AND VISIT

The Green School
Entirely built with bamboo, the Green School was created with a didactic focus on green initiatives and lifestyle. The school is laid out in different sections carved in the rainforest with majestic bamboo structures.  A great display of a modern built form with indigenous materials, the Green School is a must see for architects and environmentalists.  The bamboo structures are amazing and the school looks like it came straight out of a science fiction movie. The Green School organizes daily visits and we recommend that you book your tour in advance.

The Green School

Tours: weekdays from Monday to Friday @ 4pm (no tours during public holidays), US$10 or 120,000 Rupiah per adult

Address: Jalan Raya Sibang Kaja, Banjar Saren, Abiansemal, Badung, 80352 Bali, Indonesia

WHERE TO STAY

Chapung SeBali

Chapung SeBali
Located a few kilometers away from Ubud near Keliki Village, Chapung blends Scandinavian modernism with Bali's tropical environment.  The hotel is composed of individual villas with a private pool and overlooking rice paddies.  The restaurant serves delicious food, mixing local and western flavors, with herbs and vegetables coming from the hotel's organic garden.  You can also rent a bike (for free if you booked directly through the hotel website) and explore the hotel's surroundings on wheels.  Although not inexpensive, we found that Chapung offers great quality accommodations and amazing service at a reasonable price, considering the rates for most private villa hotels in the Ubud area.
Tip: ask for Villa 6!
Note: during our last stay (in December 2013), we found out that the hotel was building a new section with hotel rooms and a pool.  We hope that by increasing the hotel capacity, Chapung won't lose its peacefulness and serenity.
Address: Jalan Raya Sebali, Keliki, Ubud, 80561 Bali, Indonesia
Tel: +62 361 898 9102 / +62 361 898 9103

WHERE TO EAT

Karsa Kafé
A short walk or bike ride away from Chapung SeBali, Karsa Kafé is a great lunch spot where you can enjoy a nasi goreng and fresh mango juice overlooking rice terraces.  The road is said to take you all the way to Ubud.  We haven't tried going all the way down to Ubud but the walk or bike ride along the rice fields and temples is definitely worth it!
Address: Bangkiang Sidem, Keliki, Tegallalang Gianyar, Bali, Indonesia
Tel: +62 817 344 658

View of the rice terraces from Karsa Kafé

WHERE TO HAVE A COFFEE 

F.R.E.A.K. Coffee
Famous among coffee drinkers in Ubud, F.R.E.A.K. has become an institution in Bali.  The original coffee shop is located in Ubud but they also have a branch at the entrance of the Green School, where you can have a cup of joe while waiting for your tour. Address: Jalan Silang Karang, Singekerta, Tebongkang, Ubud, Bali, Indonesia
Tel: +62 878 6212 9173
 

Globe-Trotting Contributors
Marie-Adélaïde & Rafael Fernández