Bangkok Green Edition
The Globe-Trotters Collective
Despite being nicknamed the Big Mango, Bangkok is a sprawling concrete jungle that keeps growing every day. The skyline is dotted with skyscrapers and construction cranes as developers continue to build the city skywards. At almost all hours of the day, you can hear the incessant buzz of construction. Due to this, many visitors rarely spend time in Bangkok, opting instead for the mountain views of the north or the white sand beaches in the south. But to forego Bangkok is to skip out on the beating pulse of the country. It's where the traditional and the modern collide, and where you will get the truest sense of how Thais have always tried to blend the two into something uniquely their own.
These days there's a growing movement within the city to revive green spaces and expand urban agriculture in an attempt to counter-balance the malls and condos that are multiplying every day. For those of you who want to see a different, greener side of the Big Mango, check out these recommendations from The Little Greenhouse in the Big Mango.
WHERE TO EAT
Although Thai food has many meat-based specialties, if you’re vegetarian or vegan, or simply curious, there are a number of places to enjoy delicious meat-free options in Bangkok. In Thai, the word jay (rhymes with “hay”) means “vegan” while mung-saht-wi-raht means “vegetarian”.
Na Aroon Restaurant in AriyasomVilla (photo credit: Na Aroon Restaurant)
Na Aroon Restaurant in Ariyasom Villa
This delightful restaurant is within a charming boutique hotel nestled in a leafy oasis at the end of Sukhumvit Soi 1. The exclusively pescatarian menu (only seafood, vegetarian or vegan options) offers a dizzying array of Thai specialities that are often off limits elsewhere for vegetarians/vegans due to traditional ingredients of fish sauce or shrimp paste. Make sure to try the yum som-o (pomelo salad), tom kha gai (sour coconut “chicken” soup) and the massamun curry for an unforgettable meal.
Address: 65 Sukhumvit Soi 1, Klongtoey Nua, Wattana, Bangkok 10110 [MAP]
T: +66 2 253 8800
Nearest BTS: Nana Station
Barley Sushi at Rasayana Raw (photo credit: Little Greenhouse in the Big Mango)
Rasayana Raw Restaurant and Spa
In a city where temperatures are routinely above 35 degrees Celsius, it’s often hard to imagine eating anything other than fresh, light meals. Rasayana is the go-to spot. With only raw vegan dishes and loads of fresh juices, you will leave this place feeling revived. Personal favorites are the barley sushi, kale “coleslaw” salad and lemon cheesecake. They also have a spa with cleansing programs in addition to the usual massage offerings.
Address: 57 Soi Sukhumvit 39 (Soi Prom-mitr), Klongton-Nua, Wattana, Bangkok 10110 [MAP]
T: +66 2 662 4803
Nearest BTS: Phrom Phong Station
Suppaniga Eating Room
Suppaniga was among one of the first establishments in a recent trend of hip restaurants serving “grandma’s specialties”, meaning old-fashioned, home-style food. The owner of Suppaniga also opened the Somtum Der branch in NYC. Be sure to ask for their separate vegetarian menu. Their crispy fried tofu with Thai sweet and spicy curry is one of the most delicious things I’ve ever had. Wash it down with a refreshing Thaijito made with Thai basil and Chalong Bay rum from Phuket.
Address: 160/11 Soi Sukhumvit 55 (Thonglor), Klongton Nuea, Watthana, Bangkok 10110 [MAP]
T: +66 2 714 7508
Nearest BTS: Thong Lo Station
Suppaniga Eating Room (photo credit: Suppaniga)
Khao soi at Khun Churn (photo credit: Little Greenhouse in the Big Mango)
Khun Churn at EatThai
If you fancy a quick but tasty lunch while touring around the city, stop by EatThai food court in the basement of Central Embassy mall. Among the collection of stalls (all representing famous eateries from across Bangkok) is Khun Churn’s, which is 100% vegetarian. Try the northern Thai speciality of khao soi, a spicy and sour noodle soup topped with pickled onions and deep-fried crispy noodles.
Address: Central Embassy Mall, 546/4 Phloen Chit, Lumphini, Pathum Wan, Bangkok 10330
T: +66 81 642 3747
Nearest BTS: Phloen Chit Station
Seven Spoons (photo credit: Seven Spoons)
Seven Spoons
This veg-friendly restaurant has been featured as one of the top must-dine spots in Bangkok repeatedly over the past year. Located on the edge of Bangkok’s Chinatown, this small eatery is a charming, friendly spot to while away an evening. Though be prepared to fight over their mushroom fritti! Not only does the food delight the tastebuds, but it is as organic and locally-sourced as possible.
Address: 22-24 Chakkrapatipong Road (corner of of Jor Por Ror and Chakkrapatipong), Bangkok 10100 [MAP]
T: +66 2 629 9214
Nearest BTS: Ratchathewi + taxi
WHERE TO STAY
Bangkok has a hotel for just about any taste and budget. If you’re aiming to experience something different than a cheap backpacking spot on Khao San or a hotel chain, try one of these options that have a little local flair.
Ariyasom Villa
Centrally located not far from the Nana BTS station is this green oasis in the middle of the concrete jungle. This boutique hotel is quite a perfect retreat after a hot day of sightseeing.
Address: 65 Sukhumvit Soi 1, Klongtoey Nua, Wattana, Bangkok 10110 [MAP]
T: +66 2 253 8800
Phranakorn Nornlen (photo credits: Little Greenhouse in the Big Mango)
Phranakorn Nornlen
A quirky “green hotel” near old Bangkok’s Samsen area. All the rooms are modestly furnished and comfortable, with colorful, handpainted walls. There are no TVs. Instead, there are regular offerings of classes in soap carving, Thai cooking and sewing. Enjoy lunch at their rooftop restaurant and check out their urban garden.
Address: 46 Thewet soi 1, Phranakorn, Bangkhunprom, Krungkasem, Bangkok 10200 [MAP]
T: +66 2 628 8188
Urban garden at Phranakorn Nornlen
Room at Phranakorn Nornlen
SALA Rattanakosin Bangkok (photo credits: SALA Resorts)
SALA Rattanakosin
If you’re looking for something more upscale, try this boutique hotel located right on the Chao Phraya River. Simple but luxuriously furnished rooms with a direct view on Wat Arun, or Temple of the Dawn. Ideally located near Wat Po, Museum Siam and a number of good eateries, like Eat Sight Story.
Address: 39 Maharat Road, Rattanakosin Island, Bangkok 10200 [MAP]
T: +66 2 622 1388
WHAT TO DO
Tired of seeing temples? Can't bear another museum? Try some of these rejuvenating alternatives.
Floating Markets Boat & Bike Tour (photo credit: Grasshopper Adventures)
Bike Tour
Try an early-morning bicycle tour to discover hidden gems of the Big Mango. SpiceRoads or Grasshopper Adventures are two well-run tour operators in the city.
Grasshopper Adventures
Address: 57 Ratchadamneon Klang Rd, Phranakorn, Bangkok 10200 [MAP]
T: +66 2 280 0832
SpiceRoads Cycle Tours
Address: 45 (Sub Soi Pannee), Soi Pridi Banomyong 26, Sukhumvit Soi 71, Wattana, Bangkok 10110 [MAP]
T: +66 2 381 7490
Khao Yai National Park (photo credit: Khao Yai National Park)
Khao Yai National Park
If you want to see some of the region’s wildlife, bypass the ethically-dubious Tiger Temple and elephant camps. Located just a few hours’ drive outside the city, this UNESCO Natural World Heritage Site is a haven to diverse and rare wildlife such as wild elephants, gaur, Asiatic black bears and gibbons. Guided-treks and overnight camping are possible but plan early because advance permission from the park is required. Look up the Khao Yai Nationa Park's website for more info on how to get there.
Siam Green Sky (photo credit: Bangkok Post)
Siam Green Sky
This experimental edible garden on the rooftop of the Siam Square shopping mall in central Bangkok is a must-see. Started by Chulalongkorn University, Siam Green Sky is a new pilot program in green space management and will serve as a learning centre for Bangkokians who want to learn more about urban agriculture.
Hours of Operation: every Wednesday and Saturday from 10:00 to 18:00 hrs., without charge. Guided visits only, divided into three rounds: 1) 10:30 to 11:30am ; 2) 2:30 to 3:30pm; and 3) 4:30 to 5:30 pm. You can book a tour in advance by either calling +66 99 001 8514 or emailing siamgreensky@gmail.com.
Address: Siam Square One Shopping Mall, 254 Phayathai Road, Wang Mai, Pathum Wan, Bangkok 10330 [MAP]
Nearest BTS: Siam Station
Root Garden at Thong Lor (photo credit: Root Garden)
Root Garden
Another urban agriculture project, in the middle of Sukhumvit’s upscale Thong Lor neighborhood, offers visitors opportunities to get their hands dirty by helping water plants or feed animals. It’s run by a local NGO that advocates for efficient, small-scale and pro-poor land use in Thailand.
Open from 8 am to 8 pm, Tuesday to Sunday.
Address: Khlong Tan Nuea, in between Thonglor Soi 1 and 3, Watthana, Bangkok 10110 [MAP]
T: +66 85 825 2298
Nearest BTS: Thong Lo Station
Wat Po Traditional Medicine and Massage School (photo credit: Wat Po Massage School)
Thai Massage at Wat Po Traditional Medicine and Massage School
Instead of getting a massage at a spa or the hotel, try the Wat Po Traditional Medicine and Massage School. Wat Po has been a center for Thai medicine and massage for decades. Beware, traditional Thai massages aren’t always relaxing since they manipulate your limbs. Be sure to say jep noi if it hurts.
Address: 392/33-34 Maharach Rd., Prabarommaharajawang, Pranakorn, Bangkok 10200 [MAP]
T: +66 2 622 3551 / 2 622 3533
Globe-Trotting Contributors
Recommendations by Sara Lehman, founder of the Little Greenhouse in the Big Mango, currently living in Bangkok (Thailand)
Illustrations by Rafael Fernández & Marie-Adélaïde Mol, previously based in Singapore and currently living in Panama City (Panama)
