Hanoi On and Off the Tourist Circuit

If you enjoy history and architecture, you will love Hanoi!  We traveled to Hanoi twice while living in Singapore, and were lucky to be shown around by two globe-trotters, Pem and Sara, who lived in Hanoi at the time.  They took us to some of their favorite local spots, including restaurants, cafes and bars around town.  There is a lot to do in Hanoi so make sure you have at least 2 to 3 days to explore the city.  Also check out our post on Hanoi's Up and Coming Art Scene!

WHAT TO SEE AND VISIT

Temple of Literature (Dong Da District)
Travel back in time at the Temple of Literature, home to Vietnam's first national university (established in 1076).  You can then have lunch at KOTO Restaurant (more info below), located right next to the Temple of Literature on Van Mieu street.
 

Temple of Literature

Hai Ba Trung Temple (Hai Ba Trung District)
Visit this small Buddhist temple dedicated to the Trung Sisters.  The temple is tucked away from the busy streets of Hanoi and a bit less touristy.

Hoan Kiem Lake (Hoan Kiem District)
Walk along Hoan Kiem Lake and visit the red-painted Huc Bridge.  Then go to City View Café and enjoy the view while having a fresh juice or local beer.


City View Café
Address: Han Viet Tower, 6th Floor, 203 Minh Khai St., Hai Ba Trung, Hanoi
T: +84 (0)4 2215 5768

 Huc Bridge (photo courtesy of Dolma Photography)

Sights of Hanoi's bustling streets from the City View Cafe

Hoa Lo Prison or "Hanoi Hilton" (photo courtesy of Dolma Photography)

Hoa Lo Prison, aka Maison Centrale
Prisons usually aren't at the top of our list of recommendations but in the case of Hanoi, Hoa Lo Prison is a must see.  You'll even get to see what are said to be John McCain's Vietnam War fatigues.

Uncle Ho (Chi Minh)'s Mausoleum
You have to get there early to visit the mausoleum and see Ho Chi Minh's embalmed body. The museum isn't a must, mostly in Vietnamese too...

The above are the general sights you'll read about in guides.  You can skip the water puppet show, at least the one in Hanoi - although it may be worth seeing one in a smaller village depending where you are traveling.
 

WHERE TO EAT

KOTO (Dong Da District - near Temple of Literature) 
Not-for-profit training restaurant that teaches Vietnamese youngsters from disadvantaged backgrounds to cook and serve up some tasty dishes. Try the vegetarian (or non-veg) bun bo nam bo.
Address: 59 Van Mieu Street, Dong Da, Hanoi, Vietnam
T: +84 (0)4 3747 0337  

Pots n’ Pans (Hai Ba Trung District)
Founded by a KOTO graduate, this sleek resto on Mai Hac De does Vietnamese-Western fusion right. Staff are super nice and are usually KOTO graduates too. Buy one, get one free happy hour every day.  Open 11.30am until late, 7 days.
Address: 57 Bui Thi Xuan Street, Hai Ba Trung, Hanoi, Vietnam
T: +84 (0)4 3944 0204/05

Nang Tam Vegetarian (Hoan Kiem District)
Vietnamese vegetarian in a house just off Tran Hung Dao.  Tofu in tomatoes and grilled aubergine should not be missed.
Address: 79A Tran Hung Dao, Hoan Kiem, Hanoi
T: +84 (0)4 3942 4140

Nga Hang Ngon (Hoan Kiem District)
This restaurant on Tran Hung Dao street serves typical Vietnamese street food done restaurant-style. It occupies two renovated colonial-style houses and open courtyard, and is widely popular with vietnamese and foreigners.
Address: 18 Phan Boi Chau, Hoan Kiem, Hanoi, Vietnam
T: + 84 (0)4 3942 8162/63

Puku (Hoan Kiem District)
Irish nachos, free wifi and great coffee drinks can be enjoyed here.  Open 24 hours.
Address: 16/18 Tong Duy Tan, Hoan Kiem, Hanoi, Vietnam
T: +84 (0)4 3928 5244 

New Day Restaurant (Old Quarter/North of Hoan Kiem Lake)
Good local cuisine without the hazards of street food.
Address: 72 Ma May, Hanoi, Vietnam
T: +84 (0)4 3828 0315

Green Tangerine (Old Quarter/Hoan Kiem District)
Innovative and elevated Vietnamese-French fusion in a beautifully restored french villa on Hang Be Street.
Address: 48 Hang Be, Hoan Kiem, Hanoi, Vietnam
T: +84 (0)4 3825 1286

La Restaurant (Old Quarter/Hoan Kiem District)
Located near St. Joseph’s Cathedral, a place to enjoy well-done Vietnamese favorites in a relaxed setting. Incredible potato and gouda soup.
Address: 25 Ly Quoc S, Hoan Kiem, Hanoi, Vietnam
T: +84 (0)4 3928 8933

Namaste Hanoi (Old Quarter/Hoan Kiem District)
Tasty offerings of both North and South Indian cuisine in veg and non-veg varieties. Crispy dosas that are bigger than your head.
Address: 46 Tho Nhuom St, Hoan Kiem, Hanoi, Vietnam
T: +84 (0)4 3935 2400 

Tamarind Vegetarian (Old Quarter/Hoan Kiem District)
Backpacker-type restaurant with vegetarian creations with interesting names such as veggie towers of babel or veggie coffin. Travel agency in the back.
Address: 80 Ma May, Hoan Kiem, Hanoi, Vietnam
T: +84 (0)4 3926 1296
 

WHERE TO HAVE COFFEE

Whipped Egg Coffee at Hanoi Social Club (photo courtesy of Dolma Photography)

Hanoi Social Club (Hoan Kiem District)
Very cool spot with a bohemian vibe.  A steamy cappuccino with their sticky toffee pudding hits the spot. Also a great place to try the uniquely Vietnamese cà phê trứng, coffee with whipped egg.
Address: 6 Hoi Vu, Hoan Kiem, Hanoi, Vietnam
T: +84 (0)4 3938 2117

Marilyn (Hoan Kiem District)
Resto-cafe with a rooftop overlooking St. Joseph’s Cathedral.  Their fresh fruit smoothies are refreshing after a walk around the old quarter.
Address: 04 Au Trieu, Hoan Kiem, Hanoi, Vietnam

Joma Bakery Café (Hoan Kiem District)
Bakery cafe of Lao origin with a big space on Ly Quoc Su, near the Cathedral. Great soup, free WIFI and free refills on large americano coffees.  Open every day 7am–9pm.
Address: 22 Ly Quoc Su, Hoan Kiem, Hanoi, Vietnam
T: +84 (0)4 3938 1619

    Kinh Do Café (photo courtesy of Dolma Photography)

Kinh Do Cafe (Hoan Kiem District) 
Great spot for breakfast. Catherine Deneuve was a regular while filming Indochine.
Address: 252 Hang Bong, Hoan Kiem, Vietnam
T: +84 4 3825 0216

Saint-Honoré Bakery (Hai Ba Trung District)
In the shadow of Vincom Towers, this French-inspired cafe offers dozens of different pastries, breads, and mouthwatering tarts.  Good for lunch when you are craving a cheesy, well-grilled panini.
Address: 31 Thai Phien, Ha Ba Trung, Hanoi, Vietnam
T: +84 (0)4 3974 9483


WHERE TO GO FOR DRINKS

*Ta Hien Street* (Old Quarter)
For evening drinks, go to Ta Hien Street where there are lots of bars and bia hoi's (literally freshly [brewed] beer). Sitting on a tiny plastic stool on the sidewalk is the way to go here! For a sit down place nearby, check out Mao's Red lounge. 

Mao’s Red Lounge (Old Quarter)
Bar on pub street with cheap drinks, good DJ, and a funky ambiance.
Address: 7 Ta Hien, Hanoi, Vietnam
T: +84 (0)4 3926 3104

CAMA ATK (Hai Ba Trung District)
Chill space to enjoy some well-spun tunes and a stiff, handcrafted cocktail.
Open Wednesday – Saturday 6:00pm – midnight.
Address: 73A Mai Hac De, Hanoi, Vietnam

Madake (Tay Ho District)
The new it-place to go to down a few beers and chat up friends both old and new.  Tasty Thai food also made on site.
Address: 81 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Hanoi, Vietnam
T: +84 (0)4 6276 6665
 

WHERE TO SHOP

Tan My Design (Hoan Kiem District)
Beautiful vietnamese-made household items that make great gifts. Nice pieces of jewelry and clothing too.
Address: 61 Hang Gai,, Hanoi, Vietnam
T: +84 (0)4 3938 1154
 

HOW TO GET AROUND (Prices as of January 2014)

By Motorbike
Renting a motorbike is the best way to see the city if you are comfortable with it. You can rent one for the day on Ta Hien Street, in the old quarter where you'll find lots of different stores.  Rental should cost about US$4/5 (i.e. 85K to 105K VND) a day.

By Cab
Cabs are quite inexpensive in general. Depending on how big they are, starting price is usually, 8K/10K/14K VND. Some meters do go faster than others, so in general I recommend taking the Mai Linh company (white and green cabs).  A cab from Noibai Airport in Hanoi to Downtown Hanoi should cost around 350K VND. Ask for 300K and settle for 350K - that's actually the price. If you arrive late at night and there are fewer cabs, they may get greedier.  That happened to us at 1am on a Monday, we paid 500K VND.
 

Globe-Trotting Contributors
Pierre-Emmanuel Mol, Sara Lehman, Marie-Adélaïde Mol, Rafael Fernández

Pem + Sara

Marie-Adelaide + Rafael