Cultural Excursion to Mexico City

Located and developed on the site of former Aztec capital Tenochtitlan, Mexico City (a.k.a. Mexico D.F.) is one of Latin America’s most incredible cities in terms of art and modernist architecture.  One only needs to walk around the esplanade of the UNAM university campus to appreciate the sophistication of Mexican architecture and experience one of the best expressions of an authentic Latin American modernist identity.

Our globe-trotting friend Laura González Fierro, a talented architect and designer from Mexico City, shared her favorite spots in her hometown with a focus on architecture, history and local flavors.  Laura is the founder of +ADD, a studio dedicated to [Architecture + Design + Development].  She lived and practiced architecture in Mexico City, Paris and New York, and her practice is currently in NYC and Sao Paulo.

WHAT TO SEE AND VISIT

Note on Mexico City's Organization: Mexico City is divided into Delegaciones (Del.), which are "districts" within the city, and Colonias (Col.), which are "neighborhoods" within a delegación.  For more info, check out El Defe's website, which has great maps of Mexico City by colonia and delegación!

Note on Museums: most museums are closed on Mondays...

The fountain @ Museo Nacional de Antropologia (photo credit: @mnantropologia)

Museo Nacional de Antropologia
A beautiful building designed by Architect Pedro Ramírez Vázquez in 1964.  The fountain at the entrance is very famous and the museum is fantastic!
Address: Av. Paseo de la Reforma y Calzada Gandhi S/N, Col. Chapultepec Polanco, Del. Miguel Hidalgo, 11560 México, D.F. [MAP]
T: +52 55 4040 5300
Nearest Metro Station: Auditorio (Line 7) / Chapultepec (Line 1)

Museo Tamayo (photo credit: @eneltamayo)

Museo Tamayo
Located in Polanco, a very good museum of contemporary art, designed by Architects Teodoro González de León and Abraham Zabludovsky.
Address: Paseo de la Reforma 51 / esq. Gandhi, Col. Bosque de Chapultepec, Del. Miguel Hidalgo, 11580 México, D.F. [MAP]
T: +52 55 4122 8200
Nearest Metro Station: Chapultepec (Line 1) / Auditorio (Line 7)

The terrace @ Casa Luis Berragan (photo credit: Museo Casa Luis Barragán)

Museo Casa Luis Barragán
Our very own Mexican Pritzker winner – Luis Barragán. This place is magical, very nice experience in D.F.
Note: Visits are by appointment only so make sure you book in advance! For more info, check out the Casa Barragán website.
Address: General Francisco Ramírez 12-14, Col. Ampliación Daniel Garza, Del. Miguel Hidalgo, 11840 México, D.F. [MAP]
T: +52 55 5515 4908
Nearest Metro Station: Constituyentes (Line 7)

 

Museo Casa Estudio Diego Rivera y Frida Kahlo (photo credit: Estudio Diego Rivera)

San Angel Neighborhood 
If you go to San Angel Inn (see Restaurants section below for more info), take a walk through San Angel neighborhood, it’s very nice.  It is also the neighborhood where the Museo Casa Estudio Diego Rivera y Frida Kahlo is located.  If you’re in the area, make sure you stop by!

Museo Casa Estudio Diego Rivera y Frida Kahlo
The House-Studio of Diego Rivera and Frida Kahlo was designed by Mexican Painter and Architect Juan O'Gorman, who was a close friend of Diego Rivera. Built in 1931, it was one of the first buildings in Mexico City to combine organic Mexican Architecture with modern design ideals such as efficiency and functionality.
Address: Av. Altavista esq. Diego Rivera, Col. San Ángel Inn, Del. Álvaro Obregón, 01060 México, D.F. [MAP]
T: +52 55 8647 5470

UNAM Library (photo credit: Visit Mexico)

UNAM
The National University, Universidad Nacional Autónoma de México (a.k.a UNAM), is a monument to Modern Architecture and its campus is classified as a UNESCO World Heritage site.  Make sure you see the Biblioteca Central, famous for its murals by Mexican Painter and Architect Juan O'Gorman.  Also, in the cultural section you have the Espacio Escultórico de la UNAM, a very cool sculpture to visit.

Espacio Escultórico
Address: Mario de La Cueva, Col. Ciudad Universitaria, Del. Coyoacán, México, D.F. [MAP]

Bibilioteca Central
Address: Circuito Interior S/N,  Col. Ciudad Universitaria, Del. Coyoacán, 04510 México, D.F. [MAP]
T: +52 55 5622 1603

MUAC
Museum of Contemporary Art located in UNAM at the south end of the city. Very cool building designed by Mexican Architect Architect Teodoro González de León!
Address: Av de Los Insurgentes sur 3000, Col. Ciudad Universitaria, Del. Coyoacán, 04510 México, D.F. [MAP]
T: +52 55 5622 6972

Museo Universitario de Arte Contemporáneo (photo credit: MUAC via CNN Mexico)

Casa Azul in Coyoacán (photo credit: Visit Mexico)

Coyoacán
Located in the south of the city in Colonia Coyoacán.  The main plaza is beautiful and the Museo Frida Kahlo, the famous Casa Azul, is there.

Museo Frida Kahlo
Address: Londres 247, Col. Del Carmen, Del. Coyoacán, 04100 México, D.F. [MAP]
T: +52 55 5554 5999

Zócalo a.k.a. Plaza de la Constitución (photo credit: Visit Mexico)

Zócalo
The main plaza of Mexico City, where government, religion and the people collide.
Address: Plaza de la Constitución S/N, Col. Centro, Del. Cuauhtémoc, 06010 México, D.F. [MAP]
Nearest Metro Station: Zócalo (Line 2)

If you love books and have a thing for libraries (as we do), check out the following libraries! 

Bookshop @ La Ciudadela - The City of Books  (photo credit: Jaime Navarro via Dezeen)

La Ciudadela - The City of Books
In 2011, the National Council for Culture and the Arts, el Conaculta, launched the initiative to restore La Ciudadela as the “City of Books” and turn it into a cultural hub for Mexico DF housing a library as well as cultural programs and activities.  Architects Bernardo Gómez-Pimienta and Alejandro Sánchez were selected to renovate the 18th century building with contemporary architecture and technologies. One of the renovated sections is a bookshop with hundreds of wooden boxes mounted to the walls and ceilings, and a glass floor giving the space a levitating effect.  For more information on the renovation of this historic building, read this Dezeen article and the official Conaculta website (the latter is in Spanish only). 
Address: Biblioteca de México, Plaza de la Ciudadela 4, Col. Centro, Del. Cuauhtémoc, 06040 México, D.F. [MAP]
T: +52 55 4155 0830
Nearest Metro Station:  Balderas (Lines 1 and 3)

Jaime García Terres Library designed by arquitectura 911sc (photo credit: Jaime Navarro)

Personal Libraries @ La Ciudadela
In addition to the renovation of La Ciudadela, el Conaculta organized a competition and commissioned 5 architects to design personal libraries for celebrated Mexican writers: José Luis Martínez, Antonio Castro Leal, Jaime García Terres, Alí Chumacero and Carlos Mosiváis.  The intention was to design a dedicated library for each writer in order to house their private collections (donated to the state when they passed away).  Some of the collections have up to 40,000 books!  The result is beautiful and each library has its own defining character.
Address: Biblioteca de México, Plaza de la Ciudadela 4, Col. Centro, Del. Cuauhtémoc, 06040 México, D.F. [MAP]
T: +52 55 4155 0830
Nearest Metro Station:  Balderas (Lines 1 and 3)

The Biblioteca Vasconcelos was designed by Alberto Kalach, one of the best architects in Mexico at the moment.  In this library, the bookshelves are hanging from the main slab, giving the impression they are suspended. In the middle of this beautiful space there is a sculpture by Gabriel Orozco called Mátrix Móvil (the skeleton of a whale with motifs in graphite).
Address: Eje 1 norte Mosqueta s/n esq. Aldama, Col. Buenavista, Del. Cuauhtémoc, 06350 México D.F. [MAP]
T: +52 55 9157 2800
Nearest Metro Station: Buenavista (Line B)

La Biblioteca Vasconcelos (photo credit:  Tax Arquitectura via Design Boom)

WHERE TO STAY (in order of preference)

Rooftop Terrace @ Hotel Condesa DF (photo credit: Hotel Condesa)

Condesa DF
This hotel is really gorgeous and very well located.  The terrace is really nice and the hotel is located in Condesa, which is a very boho neighborhood where many cool things are located.
Address:  Av. Veracruz 102, Col. Condesa, Del. Cuauhtémoc, 06700 Mexico, D.F. [MAP]
T: +52 55 5241 2600

Pool Terrace @ Downtown Mexico (photo credit: Downtown Mexico)

Downtown Mexico
This hotel is part of the same group but located in downtown (Centro), which is all colonial and absolutely gorgeous but it might be too intense for your first time in DF as El Centro Historico is crowded, dynamic, popular and intense in general. I LOVE el Centro but maybe you spend one morning or afternoon there rather than staying there. The good thing about this hotel is the building and great refurbishment in a modern style, great combination of old and new, plus it’s close to the Airport.
Address:  Isabel la Católica 30, Col. Centro, Del. Cuauhtémoc, 06010 México, D.F. [MAP]
T: + 52 55 5130 6830

Terrace @ Hotel Habita (photo credit: Hotel Habita)

Hotel Habita
Same group but located in Polanco, which is a very nice area—more residential and upscale but less hip!
Address:  Av. Presidente Masaryk 201, Col. Polanco, Del. Miguel Hidalgo, 11560 México, D.F. [MAP]
T: +52 (55) 5282 3100

RESTAURANTS

Note: try to book restaurants in advance!

Contramar (photo credit: Contramar via Conde Nast Traveler)

Contramar
This is an iconic place you just can't miss!!! The ambiance is fabulous and the food excellent (order Tostadas de atun Contramar y Pescado a la talla), it’s where all the hip and creative people go to all the time. Mau the host is adorable!  The idea is to go there at 3PM and leave at 6, 7, or 8! Fridays are amazing there. Located in Roma-Condesa.
Address: Durango 200, Col. Roma, Del. Cuauhtémoc, 06700 México D.F. [MAP]
T: +52 55 55 5514 3169

MeroToro (photo credit: Sabores de Mexico)

MeroToro
Located in Condesa and same owners as Contramar is this delicious restaurant with a cuisine from Baja California, excellent!
Address: Amsterdam 204, Col. Condesa, Del. Cuauhtémoc, 03020 México D.F. [MAP]
T: +52 55 5564 7799

Rosetta Restaurante (photo credit: Rosetta)

Rosetta
Located in Colonia Roma (one of the most beautiful neighborhoods in DF; it’s very parisian or french in a way, old houses from 1900's and little plazas). This restaurant is delicious and beautiful, great pastas and bread - all made there. 
Address: Colima 166, Col. Roma, Del. Cuauhtémoc, 06700 México, D.F. [MAP]
T: +52 55 5533 7804

Panadería Rosetta
Fabulous place for breakfast!  They have 2 locations (one of them is in Roma) and make really really good bread (same owner as Rosetta).

HAVRE
Havre 73, Col. Juárez, Del. Cuauhtémoc, 06600 México, D.F. [MAP]
T: +52 55 5207 7065

ROMA
Colima 179, Col. Roma, Del. Cuauhtémoc, 06700 México, D.F. [MAP]
T: +52 55 5207 2976

Panadería Rosetta (photo credit: Rosetta)

Belmondo (photo credit: Time Out Mexico)

Belmondo
Really nice small place for salad and sandwiches, located in Colonia Roma.
Address: Calle Tabasco 109, Col. Roma, Del. Cuauhtémoc, 06700 México, D.F. [MAP]
T: +52 55 6273 2079

San Angel Inn
This was an old Hacienda located outside of Mexico City long time ago.  As the city grew it ended up within the city in one of the most beautiful neighborhoods in the southern part of DF.  I try to go every time I am in the city, I love the ambiance and it’s a classic! Try to seat at the terrace, otherwise inside is very nice too and the service is amazing.  It’s all Mexican food and really good.
Address: Diego Rivera 50 y Altavista, Col. San Angel Inn, Del. Álvaro Obregón, 01060 México, D.F. [MAP]
T: +52 55 5616 1402

San Angel Inn (photo credit: The American Academy of Hospitality Sciences)

Pujol (photo credit: Fiamma Piacentini for Pujol)

Pujol
This place is amazing. The owner is famous Mexican chef Enrique Olvera and it’s a fantastic experience. You will experience a high end modern Mexican cuisine that makes you travel through the subconscious of Mexico. A MUST!
Address: Petrarca 254, Col. Polanco, Del. Miguel Hidalgo, 11550 México, D.F. [MAP]
T: +52 55 5545 3507

Quintonil (photo credit: Quintonil)

Quintonil
Located in Polanco.  The sous-chef from Pujol created this great restaurant with a modern version of Mexican food. It’s very interesting and delicious!
Address: Newton 55, Col. Polanco, Del. Álvaro Obregón, 11560 México, D.F. [MAP]
T: +52 55 5280 2680

Maximo Bistrot
Another disciple of Enrique Olvera. This place is amazing and located in Colonia Roma.
Address: Tonalá 133, Col. Roma, Del. Cuauhtémoc, 06700 México, D.F. [MAP]
T: +52 55 5264 4291

Maximo Bistrot Local (photo credit: Maximo Bistrot)

CANTINAS AND BARS

Covadonga Cantina (photo credit: Art Deco Mexico)

Covadonga Cantina El Escudo
Located in Roma-Condesa this is a very cool cantina in a very well located neighborhood. It has become very hip also to spend afternoons in cantinas!
Address:  Calle Puebla 121, Col. Roma Norte, Del. Cuauhtémoc, 06700  México, D.F. [MAP]
T: +52 55 5533 2701

La Opera Cantina (photo credit: Ciudad de México Zona WiFi)

La Opera
Located in Centro.  A very pompous cantina in the heart of the city. You can eat in all cantinas and this one has a very Spanish menu...
Address: 5 de Mayo 10, Col. Alameda Central, Del. Cuauhtémoc, 06010 México, D.F. [MAP]
T: +52 55 5512 8959

La Faena (photo credit: Time Out Mexico)

La Faena
Located in Centro.  I love this cantina, this one is basically just to have drinks. Very authentic!
Address:  Calle Venustiana Carranza 49-B, Col. Centro, Del. Cuauhtémoc, México, D.F. [MAP]
T: +52 55 5510 4417

M.N. Roy
An underground place that became very hip. Designed by Emmanuel Picault, a frenchy who came to Mexico to deal with vintage furniture and created an empire. 
Note: can be a bit tough to get in on the weekends…
Address:  Mérida 186, Col. Roma Norte, Del. Cuauhtémoc, 06700 México, D.F. [MAP]

M.N. Roy Exterior Facade (photo credit: Dezeen)

M.N. Roy Interior by Emmanuel Picault and Ludwig Godefroy. (photo credit: Dezeen)

Globe-Trotting Contributors
Recommendations by Laura González Fierro, originally from Mexico City (Mexico), currently living and working between Sao Paulo (Brazil) and NYC (USA)
Illustrations by Rafael Fernández and web design by Marie-Adélaïde Mol, previously based in Singapore and currently living in Panama City (Panama)

Laura

Marie-Adelaide + Rafael

Stopover in Dubai

Dubai is a great city to make a stopover if you’re traveling from the Americas to Asia (and vice-versa).  We stopped in Dubai for 2 days as we were moving from Singapore to Panama, and discovered that Dubai has far more to offer than we had expected.  Beyond its gigantic malls and exuberant architecture, Dubai has a fascinating history and a growing local art scene.  Our globe-trotting friends – Maru, Wolfgang and Andrés – who lived in Dubai, shared their favorite spots and helped us compose the following recommendations.

WHAT TO SEE AND VISIT

Burj Khalifa (photo courtesy of Arabian Business)

Burj Khalifa
Tallest man-made structure in the world, 830 meters (2,722 ft). To visit the Burj Khalifa, you can either go to the observation deck called At The Top, or go for drinks or tea at At.Mosphere (the lounge) in the Armani Hotel, which is located in the Burj Khalifa. The best time for both plans is 5-5:30 (sunset) because you will be able to enjoy the view both by day and by night.
Note: it is important to make reservations in advance!
Address: 1 Sheikh Mohammed bin Rashid Blvd, Dubai, United Arab Emirates [MAP]
Metro Station: Burj Khalifa/ Dubai Mall

The Dubai Mall (photo courtesy of Dubai Mall)

The Dubai Mall
Biggest mall in the world. Connects to At the Top in Burj Khalifa, to the Dubai Fountain and Souk Al Bahar. Don’t miss the aquarium, the Level Shoe District, the Fashion Avenue and Kinokuniya Book World (nice, huge, bookstore).
Address: Financial Center Road, Near Souk Al Bahar Bridge, DownTown Dubai, United Arab Emirates [MAP]
Metro Station: Burj Khalifa/Dubai Mall (Red Line)

Book World by Kinokuniya
Adddress: The Dubai Mall, Level 2, DownTown Dubai, United Arab Emirates [MAP]
T: +971 4 434 0111

The Dubai Fountain (photo courtesy of Dubai Mall)

Dancing Fountains/Dubai Fountain
Similar to the Fountains of Bellagio in Las Vegas, they are the world’s largest dancing fountains. You can see the Dancing Fountains from the Dubai Mall or Souk Al Bahar. The show schedule is as follows: 1 & 1:30PM (except Fridays: 1:30pm & 2pm) and every 30 minutes from 6PM to 11PM.
Metro Station: Burj Khalifa/Dubai Mall (Red Line)

Mall of the Emirates
Our favorite mall, not as modern or big as the Dubai Mall but much more manageable. Ski Dubai is located in the mall. The concept is cool (an indoor ski slope) but in our opinion, not a must.
Address: Al Barsha 1, Dubai, United Arab Emirates [MAP]
Metro Station: Mall of the Emirates (Red Line)

Mall of the Emirates (photo courtesy of Dubai Metro)

Souk Madinat Jumeirah
Reproduction of a traditional Arabian souk. Beautiful! A Must!  Great restaurants are also there, such as The Meat Co. (steakhouse).  Located at the heart of the Madinat Jumeirah Resort, the souk is open daily from 10am to 11pm.  To get there, you can take the Metro (Red Line) to the Mall of the Emirates Metro Station and take a taxi from there.
Address: Interchange 4, Exit No 4, Jumeirah Rd, Dubai, United Arab Emirates [MAP]
T: +971 4 366 8888

Souk Madinat Jumeirah (photo courtesy of Jumeirah)

Burj Al Arab (photo courtesy of Jumeirah)

Burj Al Arab
Its architecture is stunning however, the décor inside is very arabesque and in our opinion, a bit tacky.  Nevertheless, it is supposedly the most luxurious and only 7 star hotel in the world.  You can only go inside if you are staying there or have brunch/lunch/tea/dinner reservations.  For light snacks, afternoon tea or drinks, go to the Sky View Bar on the 27th Floor (be ready to spend money!).
Note: reservations are a must!  Best way to get there is by car/taxi/Uber.
Address: Jumeirah Beach Rd, Jumeirah 3, Dubai, United Arab Emirates  [MAP]
T: +971 4 301 7777

Dubai International Financial Centre (photo courtesy of Arabian Business)

Dubai International Financial Centre (DIFC)
Dubai’s financial centre.  Very trendy area at night.  The Ritz Carlton downtown is located here and there are a bunch of trendy art galleries and amazing restaurants such as Zuma, Roberto’s, La Petite Maison and Gaucho (all excellent, see additional details in the "Where to Eat" section below). 
Address: Sheikh Zayed Road, Dubai, United Arab Emirates [MAP]
Metro Station:  Financial Centre (Red Line)

Below are a few cultural sights worth seeing in Dubai’s historic district:

Dubai Museum (photo courtesy of Jumeirah)

Dubai Museum
If you’re interested in finding out about the history of Dubai, check out the Dubai Museum.  You literally “walk through the years,” and get to see how Dubai grew from a small fishing town to a global city and commercial center for the Gulf Region. Really worth a visit!
Address: Al Fahidi Fort – Opposite Grand Mosque, Near Arabian Court Hotel – Al Fahidi St, Dubai, United Arab Emirates [MAP]
Metro Station: Al Fahidi (Green Line)
T: +971 4 353 1862
 

Al Bastakiya Historical Neighborhood
After the Dubai Museum, check out Dubai's historical neighborhood, located a few minutes away from the Al Fahidi Fort/Dubai Museum.  To get there, walk along Al Fahidi St., away from the Museum and towards the roundabout. The neighborhood is pedestrian-only and is a nice oasis of tranquility.  Look for XVA Gallery, stop by the café and try their legendary mint lemonade!  XVA Café is also a good spot to have lunch (tasty local food at reasonable prices).

XVA Café (photo courtesy of XVA Art Hotel & Gallery)

XVA Café
Open daily from 7 am to 10 pm
Address: Al Bastakiya, off Al-Fahidi round about, Al Fahidi St, Dubai, United Arab Emirates [MAP]
Metro Station: Al Fahidi (Green Line)
T: +971 4 353 5383

Gold Souk
A souk dedicated to gold.  Touristy but fun to see the daily gold rate that appears on digital billboards displayed along the souk.  Be ready to get hassled by vendors selling fake designer bags and watches (just act uninterested and they will leave you alone).  The souk is quite small and can be visited quickly.
Address: d – 24 D 85, Dubai, United Arab Emirates [MAP]
Metro Station: Al Ras (Green Line)

The Gold Souk

Deira Spice Souk
A short walk from the Gold Souk, the Spice Souk is a bit touristy but you’ll be able to see – and smell – all sorts of colorful and fragrant spices from the region.
Address: D 85, Dubai, United Arab Emirates [MAP]
Metro Station: Al Ras (Green Line)

The Spice Souk (photo courtesy of Dubai Tourism)

If you’re into contemporary art and want to get off the tourist track, check out the Al Quoz Industrial Zone, where many local artists have their workshops and galleries.

Al Quoz Industrial Zone

There are many cool art spaces in Al Quoz and we only got to see a few because of time-constraints (our 2-day trip was too short!). 

We recommend that you check out Alserkal Avenue where you’ll find art spaces, including galleries, workshops and collaborative spaces.  We also wanted to go to The Courtyard but didn't have time to make it there.

Alserkal Avenue
Address: Street 8, Al Quoz 1 (EXIT 43 off of Sheikh Zayed Rd, Dubai, United Arab Emirates [MAP]
T: +971 50 556 9797

At Alserkal Avenue, stop by A4 Space, a collaborative space for artists, writers and the culturally curious to create, connect and collaborate.  Check out the cultural library at The Loft and have a coffee at Appetite Café, both located inside A4 Space.  Look up the calendar of events to see what's going on while you're in Dubai!

To get to Alserkal Avenue, you can take the Metro (Red Line) to either Noor Bank or First Gulf Bank (Gold & Diamond Park) and take a cab from there.  Additional information on how to get there can be found here. 

Note: it can be difficult to find a cab in Al Quoz to make it back Downtown around rush hour (5-5:30pm) so make sure you plan ahead.

A4 Space / The Loft (photo courtesy of Alserkal Avenue)

WHERE TO EAT

Wafi Gourmet / Dubai Mall Branch (photo courtesy of Wafi Gourmet)

Wafi Gourmet (Lebanese)
Delicious and authentic Lebanese cuisine.  Serves a wide selection of mezze, kebabs and seafood.  The Dubai Mall branch is located a few steps from the Burj Khalifah and has a nice terrace, where locals have shisha while enjoying the view of the Burj Khalifa Lake.  Good spot for lunch or dinner.
Address: Lower Ground floor, Dubai Mall, Downtown Burj Khalifa [MAP]
T: +971 4 330 8297

La Petite Maison (photo courtesy of La Petite Maison)

La Petite Maison (French)
Very trendy. Located in DIFC (Downtown Dubai).
Address: Gate Village No, 8, Dubai International Financial Center, 312th Road, Dubai, United Arab Emirates [MAP]
Metro Station:  Financial Centre (Red Line)
T: +971 4 439 0505

Roberto's (photo courtesy of Roberto's)

Roberto’s (Italian)
Delicious and trendy. Located in DIFC (Downtown Dubai).
Address: The Bay Gate, Dubai International Financial Center, Dubai, United Arab Emirates [MAP]
Metro Station:  Financial Centre (Red Line)
T: +971 4 386 0066

The Meat Co. (Steakhouse)
Great selection of steaks but also serves fish. Located by the waterway in Souk Madinat.  Nice spot for dinner.
Address:  Souk Madinat Jumeirah, Dubai, United Arab Emirates [MAP]
T: +971 4 368 6040

MeatCo @ Souk Madinat (photo courtesy of The Meat Co.)

Pai Thai (Thai)
Located in Al Qasr Hotel, one of the boutique hotels in Madinat Jumeirah. Go to Souk Madinat and take a small boat that takes you to the restaurant.
Address: Al Qasr, Madinat Jumeirah Resort, Al Sufouh Road, Dubai, United Arab Emirates [MAP]
T: +971 4 366 5866

Pierchic (Seafood)
Super romantic.  Expensive but has the best view of Burj Al Arab.  Located at the end of the pier at Al Qasr, Madinat Jumeirah.  Access from Al Qasr pool and beach area.
Address: Al Qasr, Madinat Jumeirah Resort, Al Sufouh Road, Dubai, United Arab Emirates [MAP]
T: +971 4 366 5866
 

Pierchic (photo courtesy of Jumeirah)

WHERE TO GO OUT

101 Lounge & Bar (photo courtesy of One & Only The Palm)

101 Lounge & Bar
Beautiful for drinks at sunset time 5:30PM. A Must! Located in the One & Only The Palm (Palm Jumeirah).
Address: West Crescent, The Palm Jumeirah, Dubai, United Arab Emirates [MAP]
T: +971 4 440 1030

The Act (photo courtesy of The Act)

The Act
Combines performances, music and good Peruvian food. Located in the Shangri-la.
Address: Shangri-La Hotel, 42nd floor, Sheikh Zayed Road, Dubai, United Arab Erimates [MAP]
Metro Station: Financial Centre
T: +971 4 355 1116

Globe-Trotting Contributors
Maru Velez and Wolfgang Harten, previously based in Dubai and currently living in Quito (Ecuador)
Andrés Pages, previously based in Dubai and currently living in Panama City (Panama)
Marie-Adélaïde Mol and Rafael Fernandez, previously based in Singapore and currently living in Panama City (Panama)

Maru + Wolfgang

Andrés

Marie-Adelaide + Rafael

Hanoi On and Off the Tourist Circuit

If you enjoy history and architecture, you will love Hanoi!  We traveled to Hanoi twice while living in Singapore, and were lucky to be shown around by two globe-trotters, Pem and Sara, who lived in Hanoi at the time.  They took us to some of their favorite local spots, including restaurants, cafes and bars around town.  There is a lot to do in Hanoi so make sure you have at least 2 to 3 days to explore the city.  Also check out our post on Hanoi's Up and Coming Art Scene!

WHAT TO SEE AND VISIT

Temple of Literature (Dong Da District)
Travel back in time at the Temple of Literature, home to Vietnam's first national university (established in 1076).  You can then have lunch at KOTO Restaurant (more info below), located right next to the Temple of Literature on Van Mieu street.
 

Temple of Literature

Hai Ba Trung Temple (Hai Ba Trung District)
Visit this small Buddhist temple dedicated to the Trung Sisters.  The temple is tucked away from the busy streets of Hanoi and a bit less touristy.

Hoan Kiem Lake (Hoan Kiem District)
Walk along Hoan Kiem Lake and visit the red-painted Huc Bridge.  Then go to City View Café and enjoy the view while having a fresh juice or local beer.


City View Café
Address: Han Viet Tower, 6th Floor, 203 Minh Khai St., Hai Ba Trung, Hanoi
T: +84 (0)4 2215 5768

 Huc Bridge (photo courtesy of Dolma Photography)

Sights of Hanoi's bustling streets from the City View Cafe

Hoa Lo Prison or "Hanoi Hilton" (photo courtesy of Dolma Photography)

Hoa Lo Prison, aka Maison Centrale
Prisons usually aren't at the top of our list of recommendations but in the case of Hanoi, Hoa Lo Prison is a must see.  You'll even get to see what are said to be John McCain's Vietnam War fatigues.

Uncle Ho (Chi Minh)'s Mausoleum
You have to get there early to visit the mausoleum and see Ho Chi Minh's embalmed body. The museum isn't a must, mostly in Vietnamese too...

The above are the general sights you'll read about in guides.  You can skip the water puppet show, at least the one in Hanoi - although it may be worth seeing one in a smaller village depending where you are traveling.
 

WHERE TO EAT

KOTO (Dong Da District - near Temple of Literature) 
Not-for-profit training restaurant that teaches Vietnamese youngsters from disadvantaged backgrounds to cook and serve up some tasty dishes. Try the vegetarian (or non-veg) bun bo nam bo.
Address: 59 Van Mieu Street, Dong Da, Hanoi, Vietnam
T: +84 (0)4 3747 0337  

Pots n’ Pans (Hai Ba Trung District)
Founded by a KOTO graduate, this sleek resto on Mai Hac De does Vietnamese-Western fusion right. Staff are super nice and are usually KOTO graduates too. Buy one, get one free happy hour every day.  Open 11.30am until late, 7 days.
Address: 57 Bui Thi Xuan Street, Hai Ba Trung, Hanoi, Vietnam
T: +84 (0)4 3944 0204/05

Nang Tam Vegetarian (Hoan Kiem District)
Vietnamese vegetarian in a house just off Tran Hung Dao.  Tofu in tomatoes and grilled aubergine should not be missed.
Address: 79A Tran Hung Dao, Hoan Kiem, Hanoi
T: +84 (0)4 3942 4140

Nga Hang Ngon (Hoan Kiem District)
This restaurant on Tran Hung Dao street serves typical Vietnamese street food done restaurant-style. It occupies two renovated colonial-style houses and open courtyard, and is widely popular with vietnamese and foreigners.
Address: 18 Phan Boi Chau, Hoan Kiem, Hanoi, Vietnam
T: + 84 (0)4 3942 8162/63

Puku (Hoan Kiem District)
Irish nachos, free wifi and great coffee drinks can be enjoyed here.  Open 24 hours.
Address: 16/18 Tong Duy Tan, Hoan Kiem, Hanoi, Vietnam
T: +84 (0)4 3928 5244 

New Day Restaurant (Old Quarter/North of Hoan Kiem Lake)
Good local cuisine without the hazards of street food.
Address: 72 Ma May, Hanoi, Vietnam
T: +84 (0)4 3828 0315

Green Tangerine (Old Quarter/Hoan Kiem District)
Innovative and elevated Vietnamese-French fusion in a beautifully restored french villa on Hang Be Street.
Address: 48 Hang Be, Hoan Kiem, Hanoi, Vietnam
T: +84 (0)4 3825 1286

La Restaurant (Old Quarter/Hoan Kiem District)
Located near St. Joseph’s Cathedral, a place to enjoy well-done Vietnamese favorites in a relaxed setting. Incredible potato and gouda soup.
Address: 25 Ly Quoc S, Hoan Kiem, Hanoi, Vietnam
T: +84 (0)4 3928 8933

Namaste Hanoi (Old Quarter/Hoan Kiem District)
Tasty offerings of both North and South Indian cuisine in veg and non-veg varieties. Crispy dosas that are bigger than your head.
Address: 46 Tho Nhuom St, Hoan Kiem, Hanoi, Vietnam
T: +84 (0)4 3935 2400 

Tamarind Vegetarian (Old Quarter/Hoan Kiem District)
Backpacker-type restaurant with vegetarian creations with interesting names such as veggie towers of babel or veggie coffin. Travel agency in the back.
Address: 80 Ma May, Hoan Kiem, Hanoi, Vietnam
T: +84 (0)4 3926 1296
 

WHERE TO HAVE COFFEE

Whipped Egg Coffee at Hanoi Social Club (photo courtesy of Dolma Photography)

Hanoi Social Club (Hoan Kiem District)
Very cool spot with a bohemian vibe.  A steamy cappuccino with their sticky toffee pudding hits the spot. Also a great place to try the uniquely Vietnamese cà phê trứng, coffee with whipped egg.
Address: 6 Hoi Vu, Hoan Kiem, Hanoi, Vietnam
T: +84 (0)4 3938 2117

Marilyn (Hoan Kiem District)
Resto-cafe with a rooftop overlooking St. Joseph’s Cathedral.  Their fresh fruit smoothies are refreshing after a walk around the old quarter.
Address: 04 Au Trieu, Hoan Kiem, Hanoi, Vietnam

Joma Bakery Café (Hoan Kiem District)
Bakery cafe of Lao origin with a big space on Ly Quoc Su, near the Cathedral. Great soup, free WIFI and free refills on large americano coffees.  Open every day 7am–9pm.
Address: 22 Ly Quoc Su, Hoan Kiem, Hanoi, Vietnam
T: +84 (0)4 3938 1619

    Kinh Do Café (photo courtesy of Dolma Photography)

Kinh Do Cafe (Hoan Kiem District) 
Great spot for breakfast. Catherine Deneuve was a regular while filming Indochine.
Address: 252 Hang Bong, Hoan Kiem, Vietnam
T: +84 4 3825 0216

Saint-Honoré Bakery (Hai Ba Trung District)
In the shadow of Vincom Towers, this French-inspired cafe offers dozens of different pastries, breads, and mouthwatering tarts.  Good for lunch when you are craving a cheesy, well-grilled panini.
Address: 31 Thai Phien, Ha Ba Trung, Hanoi, Vietnam
T: +84 (0)4 3974 9483


WHERE TO GO FOR DRINKS

*Ta Hien Street* (Old Quarter)
For evening drinks, go to Ta Hien Street where there are lots of bars and bia hoi's (literally freshly [brewed] beer). Sitting on a tiny plastic stool on the sidewalk is the way to go here! For a sit down place nearby, check out Mao's Red lounge. 

Mao’s Red Lounge (Old Quarter)
Bar on pub street with cheap drinks, good DJ, and a funky ambiance.
Address: 7 Ta Hien, Hanoi, Vietnam
T: +84 (0)4 3926 3104

CAMA ATK (Hai Ba Trung District)
Chill space to enjoy some well-spun tunes and a stiff, handcrafted cocktail.
Open Wednesday – Saturday 6:00pm – midnight.
Address: 73A Mai Hac De, Hanoi, Vietnam

Madake (Tay Ho District)
The new it-place to go to down a few beers and chat up friends both old and new.  Tasty Thai food also made on site.
Address: 81 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Hanoi, Vietnam
T: +84 (0)4 6276 6665
 

WHERE TO SHOP

Tan My Design (Hoan Kiem District)
Beautiful vietnamese-made household items that make great gifts. Nice pieces of jewelry and clothing too.
Address: 61 Hang Gai,, Hanoi, Vietnam
T: +84 (0)4 3938 1154
 

HOW TO GET AROUND (Prices as of January 2014)

By Motorbike
Renting a motorbike is the best way to see the city if you are comfortable with it. You can rent one for the day on Ta Hien Street, in the old quarter where you'll find lots of different stores.  Rental should cost about US$4/5 (i.e. 85K to 105K VND) a day.

By Cab
Cabs are quite inexpensive in general. Depending on how big they are, starting price is usually, 8K/10K/14K VND. Some meters do go faster than others, so in general I recommend taking the Mai Linh company (white and green cabs).  A cab from Noibai Airport in Hanoi to Downtown Hanoi should cost around 350K VND. Ask for 300K and settle for 350K - that's actually the price. If you arrive late at night and there are fewer cabs, they may get greedier.  That happened to us at 1am on a Monday, we paid 500K VND.
 

Globe-Trotting Contributors
Pierre-Emmanuel Mol, Sara Lehman, Marie-Adélaïde Mol, Rafael Fernández

Pem + Sara

Marie-Adelaide + Rafael

Berlin by Night

If you need a starting point or a place to meet your friends before going out, the Hakuna Matata kiosk at the U2 Eberswalder Strasse metro stationis a common meeting point before people go out in the Prenzlauerberg area.

Zu mir oder zu dir (photo courtesy of Pierre-Emmanuel Mol)

Zu mir oder zu dir
Very cool spot with retro chairs and sofas. Very chill, the bar has a home-like atmosphere. Great music and colorful lighting.
Address: Lychener Strasse off Danziger Strasse
Metro: U2 Eberswalder Str.

Schwarz Sauer
Local joint where hip artists hangout. Always packed!
Address: Kastanienalle
Metro: U2 Eberswalder Str.

Morgenrot
Very cheap bar on the ground floor with a space for concerts underground. Great bar to end the night. Very alternative - so don't be surprised if you run into one or two mohawks - and very Berlin!!
Address: Kastanienalle
Metro: U2 Eberswalder Str.

103
A bit more classy and hip (there is also a Club 103 at Friedriechshain near the Watergate)
Address: Kastanienalle
Metro: U2 Eberswalder Str.

Kauf dich Gluecklich
Thrift store/cafe that serves delicious home-made waffles and crepes. Very cool spot to have a drink early evening. Cash only!
Address: Oderberger Strasse 44, 10119 Berlin
Metro: U2 Eberswalder Str.

Weinerei
Very cool wine bar/restaurant near Zionskirche (the church is off Kastanienallee, near 103). You should go after 8pm, when the "wine happy hour" begins. You pay 1 euro to have an empty glass and then pay what you think is fair at the end of the evening. There is also a buffet, which you pay for with a donation as well. You serve yourself so it's entirely based on trust. I hope it didn't go bankrupt...!
Address: Zionkirchestrasse 40, 10119 Berlin (South end of the Zionskirchplatz)
Metro: U8 Rosenthaler Platz

Dach Kammer
Located on Simon Dach Strasse near Friedriechshain (other hip area on the East Side), the bar is decorated like a former East Berlin apartment. Great atmosphere, especially on the top floor.
Address: Simon-Dach Strasse 39, 10245 Berlin
Metro: Warschauer Str.

Cafe am Neuensee
Very cool Biergarten located by the lake in the heart of Tiergarten. Well hidden spot to relax and have Hefeweizen or Kristall beers with locals after a long day of shopping on the Ku-damm.
Address: Lichtensteinallee 2, 10787 Berlin
Metro: Zoologischegarten

Globe-Trotting Contributor: Pierre-Emmanuel Mol