Cultural Excursion to Mexico City

Located and developed on the site of former Aztec capital Tenochtitlan, Mexico City (a.k.a. Mexico D.F.) is one of Latin America’s most incredible cities in terms of art and modernist architecture.  One only needs to walk around the esplanade of the UNAM university campus to appreciate the sophistication of Mexican architecture and experience one of the best expressions of an authentic Latin American modernist identity.

Our globe-trotting friend Laura González Fierro, a talented architect and designer from Mexico City, shared her favorite spots in her hometown with a focus on architecture, history and local flavors.  Laura is the founder of +ADD, a studio dedicated to [Architecture + Design + Development].  She lived and practiced architecture in Mexico City, Paris and New York, and her practice is currently in NYC and Sao Paulo.

WHAT TO SEE AND VISIT

Note on Mexico City's Organization: Mexico City is divided into Delegaciones (Del.), which are "districts" within the city, and Colonias (Col.), which are "neighborhoods" within a delegación.  For more info, check out El Defe's website, which has great maps of Mexico City by colonia and delegación!

Note on Museums: most museums are closed on Mondays...

The fountain @ Museo Nacional de Antropologia (photo credit: @mnantropologia)

Museo Nacional de Antropologia
A beautiful building designed by Architect Pedro Ramírez Vázquez in 1964.  The fountain at the entrance is very famous and the museum is fantastic!
Address: Av. Paseo de la Reforma y Calzada Gandhi S/N, Col. Chapultepec Polanco, Del. Miguel Hidalgo, 11560 México, D.F. [MAP]
T: +52 55 4040 5300
Nearest Metro Station: Auditorio (Line 7) / Chapultepec (Line 1)

Museo Tamayo (photo credit: @eneltamayo)

Museo Tamayo
Located in Polanco, a very good museum of contemporary art, designed by Architects Teodoro González de León and Abraham Zabludovsky.
Address: Paseo de la Reforma 51 / esq. Gandhi, Col. Bosque de Chapultepec, Del. Miguel Hidalgo, 11580 México, D.F. [MAP]
T: +52 55 4122 8200
Nearest Metro Station: Chapultepec (Line 1) / Auditorio (Line 7)

The terrace @ Casa Luis Berragan (photo credit: Museo Casa Luis Barragán)

Museo Casa Luis Barragán
Our very own Mexican Pritzker winner – Luis Barragán. This place is magical, very nice experience in D.F.
Note: Visits are by appointment only so make sure you book in advance! For more info, check out the Casa Barragán website.
Address: General Francisco Ramírez 12-14, Col. Ampliación Daniel Garza, Del. Miguel Hidalgo, 11840 México, D.F. [MAP]
T: +52 55 5515 4908
Nearest Metro Station: Constituyentes (Line 7)

 

Museo Casa Estudio Diego Rivera y Frida Kahlo (photo credit: Estudio Diego Rivera)

San Angel Neighborhood 
If you go to San Angel Inn (see Restaurants section below for more info), take a walk through San Angel neighborhood, it’s very nice.  It is also the neighborhood where the Museo Casa Estudio Diego Rivera y Frida Kahlo is located.  If you’re in the area, make sure you stop by!

Museo Casa Estudio Diego Rivera y Frida Kahlo
The House-Studio of Diego Rivera and Frida Kahlo was designed by Mexican Painter and Architect Juan O'Gorman, who was a close friend of Diego Rivera. Built in 1931, it was one of the first buildings in Mexico City to combine organic Mexican Architecture with modern design ideals such as efficiency and functionality.
Address: Av. Altavista esq. Diego Rivera, Col. San Ángel Inn, Del. Álvaro Obregón, 01060 México, D.F. [MAP]
T: +52 55 8647 5470

UNAM Library (photo credit: Visit Mexico)

UNAM
The National University, Universidad Nacional Autónoma de México (a.k.a UNAM), is a monument to Modern Architecture and its campus is classified as a UNESCO World Heritage site.  Make sure you see the Biblioteca Central, famous for its murals by Mexican Painter and Architect Juan O'Gorman.  Also, in the cultural section you have the Espacio Escultórico de la UNAM, a very cool sculpture to visit.

Espacio Escultórico
Address: Mario de La Cueva, Col. Ciudad Universitaria, Del. Coyoacán, México, D.F. [MAP]

Bibilioteca Central
Address: Circuito Interior S/N,  Col. Ciudad Universitaria, Del. Coyoacán, 04510 México, D.F. [MAP]
T: +52 55 5622 1603

MUAC
Museum of Contemporary Art located in UNAM at the south end of the city. Very cool building designed by Mexican Architect Architect Teodoro González de León!
Address: Av de Los Insurgentes sur 3000, Col. Ciudad Universitaria, Del. Coyoacán, 04510 México, D.F. [MAP]
T: +52 55 5622 6972

Museo Universitario de Arte Contemporáneo (photo credit: MUAC via CNN Mexico)

Casa Azul in Coyoacán (photo credit: Visit Mexico)

Coyoacán
Located in the south of the city in Colonia Coyoacán.  The main plaza is beautiful and the Museo Frida Kahlo, the famous Casa Azul, is there.

Museo Frida Kahlo
Address: Londres 247, Col. Del Carmen, Del. Coyoacán, 04100 México, D.F. [MAP]
T: +52 55 5554 5999

Zócalo a.k.a. Plaza de la Constitución (photo credit: Visit Mexico)

Zócalo
The main plaza of Mexico City, where government, religion and the people collide.
Address: Plaza de la Constitución S/N, Col. Centro, Del. Cuauhtémoc, 06010 México, D.F. [MAP]
Nearest Metro Station: Zócalo (Line 2)

If you love books and have a thing for libraries (as we do), check out the following libraries! 

Bookshop @ La Ciudadela - The City of Books  (photo credit: Jaime Navarro via Dezeen)

La Ciudadela - The City of Books
In 2011, the National Council for Culture and the Arts, el Conaculta, launched the initiative to restore La Ciudadela as the “City of Books” and turn it into a cultural hub for Mexico DF housing a library as well as cultural programs and activities.  Architects Bernardo Gómez-Pimienta and Alejandro Sánchez were selected to renovate the 18th century building with contemporary architecture and technologies. One of the renovated sections is a bookshop with hundreds of wooden boxes mounted to the walls and ceilings, and a glass floor giving the space a levitating effect.  For more information on the renovation of this historic building, read this Dezeen article and the official Conaculta website (the latter is in Spanish only). 
Address: Biblioteca de México, Plaza de la Ciudadela 4, Col. Centro, Del. Cuauhtémoc, 06040 México, D.F. [MAP]
T: +52 55 4155 0830
Nearest Metro Station:  Balderas (Lines 1 and 3)

Jaime García Terres Library designed by arquitectura 911sc (photo credit: Jaime Navarro)

Personal Libraries @ La Ciudadela
In addition to the renovation of La Ciudadela, el Conaculta organized a competition and commissioned 5 architects to design personal libraries for celebrated Mexican writers: José Luis Martínez, Antonio Castro Leal, Jaime García Terres, Alí Chumacero and Carlos Mosiváis.  The intention was to design a dedicated library for each writer in order to house their private collections (donated to the state when they passed away).  Some of the collections have up to 40,000 books!  The result is beautiful and each library has its own defining character.
Address: Biblioteca de México, Plaza de la Ciudadela 4, Col. Centro, Del. Cuauhtémoc, 06040 México, D.F. [MAP]
T: +52 55 4155 0830
Nearest Metro Station:  Balderas (Lines 1 and 3)

The Biblioteca Vasconcelos was designed by Alberto Kalach, one of the best architects in Mexico at the moment.  In this library, the bookshelves are hanging from the main slab, giving the impression they are suspended. In the middle of this beautiful space there is a sculpture by Gabriel Orozco called Mátrix Móvil (the skeleton of a whale with motifs in graphite).
Address: Eje 1 norte Mosqueta s/n esq. Aldama, Col. Buenavista, Del. Cuauhtémoc, 06350 México D.F. [MAP]
T: +52 55 9157 2800
Nearest Metro Station: Buenavista (Line B)

La Biblioteca Vasconcelos (photo credit:  Tax Arquitectura via Design Boom)

WHERE TO STAY (in order of preference)

Rooftop Terrace @ Hotel Condesa DF (photo credit: Hotel Condesa)

Condesa DF
This hotel is really gorgeous and very well located.  The terrace is really nice and the hotel is located in Condesa, which is a very boho neighborhood where many cool things are located.
Address:  Av. Veracruz 102, Col. Condesa, Del. Cuauhtémoc, 06700 Mexico, D.F. [MAP]
T: +52 55 5241 2600

Pool Terrace @ Downtown Mexico (photo credit: Downtown Mexico)

Downtown Mexico
This hotel is part of the same group but located in downtown (Centro), which is all colonial and absolutely gorgeous but it might be too intense for your first time in DF as El Centro Historico is crowded, dynamic, popular and intense in general. I LOVE el Centro but maybe you spend one morning or afternoon there rather than staying there. The good thing about this hotel is the building and great refurbishment in a modern style, great combination of old and new, plus it’s close to the Airport.
Address:  Isabel la Católica 30, Col. Centro, Del. Cuauhtémoc, 06010 México, D.F. [MAP]
T: + 52 55 5130 6830

Terrace @ Hotel Habita (photo credit: Hotel Habita)

Hotel Habita
Same group but located in Polanco, which is a very nice area—more residential and upscale but less hip!
Address:  Av. Presidente Masaryk 201, Col. Polanco, Del. Miguel Hidalgo, 11560 México, D.F. [MAP]
T: +52 (55) 5282 3100

RESTAURANTS

Note: try to book restaurants in advance!

Contramar (photo credit: Contramar via Conde Nast Traveler)

Contramar
This is an iconic place you just can't miss!!! The ambiance is fabulous and the food excellent (order Tostadas de atun Contramar y Pescado a la talla), it’s where all the hip and creative people go to all the time. Mau the host is adorable!  The idea is to go there at 3PM and leave at 6, 7, or 8! Fridays are amazing there. Located in Roma-Condesa.
Address: Durango 200, Col. Roma, Del. Cuauhtémoc, 06700 México D.F. [MAP]
T: +52 55 55 5514 3169

MeroToro (photo credit: Sabores de Mexico)

MeroToro
Located in Condesa and same owners as Contramar is this delicious restaurant with a cuisine from Baja California, excellent!
Address: Amsterdam 204, Col. Condesa, Del. Cuauhtémoc, 03020 México D.F. [MAP]
T: +52 55 5564 7799

Rosetta Restaurante (photo credit: Rosetta)

Rosetta
Located in Colonia Roma (one of the most beautiful neighborhoods in DF; it’s very parisian or french in a way, old houses from 1900's and little plazas). This restaurant is delicious and beautiful, great pastas and bread - all made there. 
Address: Colima 166, Col. Roma, Del. Cuauhtémoc, 06700 México, D.F. [MAP]
T: +52 55 5533 7804

Panadería Rosetta
Fabulous place for breakfast!  They have 2 locations (one of them is in Roma) and make really really good bread (same owner as Rosetta).

HAVRE
Havre 73, Col. Juárez, Del. Cuauhtémoc, 06600 México, D.F. [MAP]
T: +52 55 5207 7065

ROMA
Colima 179, Col. Roma, Del. Cuauhtémoc, 06700 México, D.F. [MAP]
T: +52 55 5207 2976

Panadería Rosetta (photo credit: Rosetta)

Belmondo (photo credit: Time Out Mexico)

Belmondo
Really nice small place for salad and sandwiches, located in Colonia Roma.
Address: Calle Tabasco 109, Col. Roma, Del. Cuauhtémoc, 06700 México, D.F. [MAP]
T: +52 55 6273 2079

San Angel Inn
This was an old Hacienda located outside of Mexico City long time ago.  As the city grew it ended up within the city in one of the most beautiful neighborhoods in the southern part of DF.  I try to go every time I am in the city, I love the ambiance and it’s a classic! Try to seat at the terrace, otherwise inside is very nice too and the service is amazing.  It’s all Mexican food and really good.
Address: Diego Rivera 50 y Altavista, Col. San Angel Inn, Del. Álvaro Obregón, 01060 México, D.F. [MAP]
T: +52 55 5616 1402

San Angel Inn (photo credit: The American Academy of Hospitality Sciences)

Pujol (photo credit: Fiamma Piacentini for Pujol)

Pujol
This place is amazing. The owner is famous Mexican chef Enrique Olvera and it’s a fantastic experience. You will experience a high end modern Mexican cuisine that makes you travel through the subconscious of Mexico. A MUST!
Address: Petrarca 254, Col. Polanco, Del. Miguel Hidalgo, 11550 México, D.F. [MAP]
T: +52 55 5545 3507

Quintonil (photo credit: Quintonil)

Quintonil
Located in Polanco.  The sous-chef from Pujol created this great restaurant with a modern version of Mexican food. It’s very interesting and delicious!
Address: Newton 55, Col. Polanco, Del. Álvaro Obregón, 11560 México, D.F. [MAP]
T: +52 55 5280 2680

Maximo Bistrot
Another disciple of Enrique Olvera. This place is amazing and located in Colonia Roma.
Address: Tonalá 133, Col. Roma, Del. Cuauhtémoc, 06700 México, D.F. [MAP]
T: +52 55 5264 4291

Maximo Bistrot Local (photo credit: Maximo Bistrot)

CANTINAS AND BARS

Covadonga Cantina (photo credit: Art Deco Mexico)

Covadonga Cantina El Escudo
Located in Roma-Condesa this is a very cool cantina in a very well located neighborhood. It has become very hip also to spend afternoons in cantinas!
Address:  Calle Puebla 121, Col. Roma Norte, Del. Cuauhtémoc, 06700  México, D.F. [MAP]
T: +52 55 5533 2701

La Opera Cantina (photo credit: Ciudad de México Zona WiFi)

La Opera
Located in Centro.  A very pompous cantina in the heart of the city. You can eat in all cantinas and this one has a very Spanish menu...
Address: 5 de Mayo 10, Col. Alameda Central, Del. Cuauhtémoc, 06010 México, D.F. [MAP]
T: +52 55 5512 8959

La Faena (photo credit: Time Out Mexico)

La Faena
Located in Centro.  I love this cantina, this one is basically just to have drinks. Very authentic!
Address:  Calle Venustiana Carranza 49-B, Col. Centro, Del. Cuauhtémoc, México, D.F. [MAP]
T: +52 55 5510 4417

M.N. Roy
An underground place that became very hip. Designed by Emmanuel Picault, a frenchy who came to Mexico to deal with vintage furniture and created an empire. 
Note: can be a bit tough to get in on the weekends…
Address:  Mérida 186, Col. Roma Norte, Del. Cuauhtémoc, 06700 México, D.F. [MAP]

M.N. Roy Exterior Facade (photo credit: Dezeen)

M.N. Roy Interior by Emmanuel Picault and Ludwig Godefroy. (photo credit: Dezeen)

Globe-Trotting Contributors
Recommendations by Laura González Fierro, originally from Mexico City (Mexico), currently living and working between Sao Paulo (Brazil) and NYC (USA)
Illustrations by Rafael Fernández and web design by Marie-Adélaïde Mol, previously based in Singapore and currently living in Panama City (Panama)

Laura

Marie-Adelaide + Rafael

Coming Soon...

+ADD is a studio dedicated to [Architecture + Design + Development] 

Established in 2010 by Laura González Fierro who received her Architecture Degree from Universidad Iberoamericana in Mexico City in 2002 and a Master of Science in Advanced Architectural Design from Columbia University GSAPP in 2008. She collaborated with several architectural firms in Mexico City, Paris and New York, where she gained experience in design and coordination of larger and more complex projects.  Laura Gonzalez Fierro is a registered architect in the State of New York and a member of the American Institute of Architects. +ADD is a New York City based architecture firm whose work includes architectural and interior design, furniture as well as consulting for industry. 

Learn more about +ADD here.

Bali Bliss

Over the years, Bali has grown tremendously and attracts a lot of tourists, particularly along the coast from Kuta to Seminyak.  If you prefer to stay away from the crowds, we recommend staying around Ubud, about an hour away from Denpasar.  Ubud is still somewhat preserved and offers beautiful landscapes of rice terraces.  If you're looking for a place to relax and revitalize yourself while surrounded by nature, Ubud is the place to go.

WHAT TO SEE AND VISIT

The Green School
Entirely built with bamboo, the Green School was created with a didactic focus on green initiatives and lifestyle. The school is laid out in different sections carved in the rainforest with majestic bamboo structures.  A great display of a modern built form with indigenous materials, the Green School is a must see for architects and environmentalists.  The bamboo structures are amazing and the school looks like it came straight out of a science fiction movie. The Green School organizes daily visits and we recommend that you book your tour in advance.

The Green School

Tours: weekdays from Monday to Friday @ 4pm (no tours during public holidays), US$10 or 120,000 Rupiah per adult

Address: Jalan Raya Sibang Kaja, Banjar Saren, Abiansemal, Badung, 80352 Bali, Indonesia

WHERE TO STAY

Chapung SeBali

Chapung SeBali
Located a few kilometers away from Ubud near Keliki Village, Chapung blends Scandinavian modernism with Bali's tropical environment.  The hotel is composed of individual villas with a private pool and overlooking rice paddies.  The restaurant serves delicious food, mixing local and western flavors, with herbs and vegetables coming from the hotel's organic garden.  You can also rent a bike (for free if you booked directly through the hotel website) and explore the hotel's surroundings on wheels.  Although not inexpensive, we found that Chapung offers great quality accommodations and amazing service at a reasonable price, considering the rates for most private villa hotels in the Ubud area.
Tip: ask for Villa 6!
Note: during our last stay (in December 2013), we found out that the hotel was building a new section with hotel rooms and a pool.  We hope that by increasing the hotel capacity, Chapung won't lose its peacefulness and serenity.
Address: Jalan Raya Sebali, Keliki, Ubud, 80561 Bali, Indonesia
Tel: +62 361 898 9102 / +62 361 898 9103

WHERE TO EAT

Karsa Kafé
A short walk or bike ride away from Chapung SeBali, Karsa Kafé is a great lunch spot where you can enjoy a nasi goreng and fresh mango juice overlooking rice terraces.  The road is said to take you all the way to Ubud.  We haven't tried going all the way down to Ubud but the walk or bike ride along the rice fields and temples is definitely worth it!
Address: Bangkiang Sidem, Keliki, Tegallalang Gianyar, Bali, Indonesia
Tel: +62 817 344 658

View of the rice terraces from Karsa Kafé

WHERE TO HAVE A COFFEE 

F.R.E.A.K. Coffee
Famous among coffee drinkers in Ubud, F.R.E.A.K. has become an institution in Bali.  The original coffee shop is located in Ubud but they also have a branch at the entrance of the Green School, where you can have a cup of joe while waiting for your tour. Address: Jalan Silang Karang, Singekerta, Tebongkang, Ubud, Bali, Indonesia
Tel: +62 878 6212 9173
 

Globe-Trotting Contributors
Marie-Adélaïde & Rafael Fernández

Bangkok Insider

WHAT TO SEE AND VISIT

Reclining Buddha at Wat Pho

Recommended Tour (if you only have a day in Bangkok)

Start your day at the Mandarin Oriental Hotel to see its old colonial house and then board the river taxi to venture north on the Chao Phraya river.

Get off the water taxi to see the Wat Pho temple, Wat Phra Kaew (Emerald Buddha) and the Grand Palace grounds.

Warning: scam operators have been known to target tourists trying to see these sights. A very friendly Thai (some are friendlier than others!) will approach you to tell you the [Grand Palace, Emerald Buddha, etc.] is closed for a special holiday or closed until the afternoon, and try to divert you by "helping" you get a cheap tuk-tuk. Visitors should always approach a tourist police or preferably, the main entrance of these sites first to inquire.

After all the sightseeing, reward yourself with a sunset drink at The Deck (more info below), which has a rooftop offering amazing sunset views of Wat Arun (Temple of Dawn). Really beautiful view but try to get there in advance of sunset since you will not be alone, for sure!

End the day taking a tuk tuk over to Khao San Rd. It is the main backpacker street and although not significant to Thai history, it's an interesting street to see nonetheless, and it's always a happening place with all the pubs and restaurants.
















Other places to visit 

Jim Thompson House
Amazing collection of Thai antiques and house of the creator of Jim Thompson silk business.  The house is architecturally and culturally fascinating, and the cherry on top is the mystery surrounding Jim Thompson's disappearance. He used to be a former CIA agent before starting his silk company, and one day while hiking in Malaysia in the 1970s, he completely disappeared. Not a trace. This house is his legacy. Also, check out the Jim Thompson store, which has a lot of beautiful gifts to bring back for the family.
Address: 6 Soi Kasemsan 2, Rama 1 Road, Bangkok, 10400, Thailand
Skytrain Stop: National Stadium Station

Chatuchak Weekend Market
If you are in Bangkok on the weekend, check out Chatuchak Market early in the morning. It gets very crowded during the day. It's a great place to buy gifts and just see the busiest market in Bangkok.
SkyTrain Stop: Mochit Station 
MRT Stop: Kamphaenpetch Station

Chinatown or Little India
Both Chinese and Indians are prevalent in Thai history and culture, and these communities are vibrant. These neighborhoods are definitely worth checking out.

Floating Market

Floating Market
The floating market is actually outside of Bangkok and maybe will help you see why Bangkok used to be called the Venice of the East! It requires waking up very early (2-4 am!) and taking a hired taxi or public bus to the floating market. Great photo ops.










WHERE TO EAT

Supatra River House
Delicious Thai restaurant located on the Chao Phraya river bank. Their tom kha kai is incredible!
Address: 266 Soi Wat Rakhang, Siriraj, Bangkok Noi, Bangkok 10700, Thailand
Water Taxi Stop: Tha Chang Wang Lang Pier
 

WHERE TO GO FOR DRINKS

View of Wat Arun from The Deck

The Deck
After all the sightseeing, reward yourself with a sunset drink at The Deck, which has a rooftop offering amazing views of sunset with Wat Arun (Temple of the Dawn). Really beautiful but try to get there in advance of sunset since you will not be alone, for sure!
Address:  36-38 Soi Pratoo Nok Yoong, Maharat Road, Rattanakosin Island, Bangkok, 10200, Thailand
Water Taxi Stop: Tatien Pier

Sirocco
If you are looking for a grande finale, check out Sirocco, atop the Lebua, where the opening scene of Hangover 2 was filmed.  The view of Bangkok is amazing and it's a fantastic place for a drink on your final night in Bangkok. 
Tip: if the main bar is too crowded, snap a few photos of the view and go to the side bar for a drink.
Address: 1055 Silom Road, Bangrak, Bangkok, 10500, Thailand
BTS/Water Taxi Stop: Saphan Thaksin Station/Central Pier (5-10 min walk to Lebua)

                           Panoramic view from Sirocco (photo courtesy of Jeffrey Chua)

WHERE TO GO OUT 

Silom and Patpong are the mainstays of Bangkok nightlife. Though Patpong is seedier than Silom, it might just be worth checking out for a view into a different, darker side of Bangkok.  Soi 11 also has nightlife for all tastes and budgets. There's Above 11 at Fraser Suites for some hi-so fusion tapas with an incredible view of the city, or there are street-side bars serving cheap drinks from a tricked-out Volkswagen van - and everything in between! 

Above 11 Rooftop Bar
Address: 33 rd floor of the Fraser Suites Sukhumvit @ 38/8 Sukhumvit Soi 11, Klong Toey Nua, Wattana, Bangkok 10110, Thailand
BTS Stop: Nana station

WHERE TO STAY

Riva Surya Bangkok Hotel
Riva Surya is a small boutique hotel near the Old City. Overlooking the river, the hotel nicely blends modern and traditional Thai architecture. It's a great to place to stay if you wish to spend time in the historical part of Bangkok. And to go to the City Center, just hop in a Water Taxi from the Phra Arthit Pier located a few steps away from the hotel. 
Address: 23 Phra Arthit Road, Pranakorn, Bangkok, 10200, Thailand
Water Taxi Stop: Phra Arthit Pier

WHERE TO SHOP

Terminal 21 Mall
The newest mall in Bangkok, themed around an airport. It is an interesting look into the contemporary Thai cultural past-time - shopping! 
Address: 2,88 Sukhumvit Soi 19, Sukhumvit Rd, North Khlong Toei, Wattana, Bangkok 10110, Thailand
BTS Stop: Asok Station

WHERE TO GET TAILOR-MADE SHIRTS

Larry's Fashion (photo courtesy of Dolma Photography)

Larry's Fashion
Bangkok is known for its tailors and there are many to choose from but we recommend Larry. He is fast, reliable and his shop is centrally located near the Phrom Phong Skytrain station.
Address: 105 Sukhumvit Soi 22, Sukhumvit Rd, Khlong Toei, Sukhumvit, Bangkok,10110, Thailand
BTS Stop: Phrom Phong Station
 

WHERE TO GET A MASSAGE

Urban Retreat Spa
Massage parlors abound in Bangkok but some of them can be a bit sketchy.  We recommend Urban Retreat, a clean, pleasant and affordable spa.  They have two convenient locations, which you you can choose from depending where you are staying.
Open Daily from 10 am to 10 pm.
BTS Phrom Phong Branch: +66 (0) 2204 1042-3
BTS Asoke Branch: +66 (0) 2229 4701-3


HOW TO GET AROUND

Tuk Tuk (photo courtesy of Dolma Photography)

Sky Trains (BTS) and Subway (MRT)
Bangkok is known for its traffic jams so we recommend using the sky trains (BTS) and Bangkok's subway (MRT) as much as you can. The MRT connects to the BTS at Asok station. Day Passes are available for 130 Bhat.

Water Taxi (Chao Phraya Express Boats)
Another great way to beat the traffic - and to get a different view of Bangkok - is to navigate the city with Water Taxis.  The Water Taxis make stops on both sides of the Chao Phraya river.  You can transfer to the BTS (Sky Train) at Central Pier / Saphan Thaksin.

Tuk Tuk
You shouldn't leave Bangkok without taking a Tuk Tuk at least once.  You will most likely be over-charged for the ride and can bargain with the driver but you might want to let it go and consider it part of the Bangkok experience.

Globe-Trotting Contributors
Pierre-Emmanuel Mol & Sara Lehman, currently living in Bangkok
and formerly in Hanoi.  Check out their blog The Lotus & The Frog!

Hanoi 's Up and Coming Art Scene

Hanoi's Art scene is booming and art spaces as well as artsy bars and cafés are sprouting throughout the city.  Below are a few of our favorites.  We also recommend checking out Hanoi Grapevine and Word Hanoi for cool events and exhibits.

BARS

Bar Betta (Ba Dinh District)
Old Hollywood-themed bar on Cao Ba Quat Street with a great rooftop to sip a margarita after touring nearby Fine Arts Museum, HCM Mausoleum or Temple of Literature.
Address: 34C Cao Ba Quat, Ba Dinh, Hanoi, Vietnam
T: +84 165 897 9073

21 North (Tay Ho/West Lake)
New hip art space and bar directly facing the lake with outdoor seating to sip on some Ricard (zee-ka, in Vietnamese) at sunset.
Address: 49 Duong Ven Ho Tay
T: +84 (0)9 4670 8286

Tadioto (Hoan Kiem District)
Artsy bar and alternative art space near the Opera House. Perfect to relax with a book and a coffee by day, or with a drink after a long week. We recommend their passion fruit margaritas!
Address: 24B Tong Dan, Hanoi, Vietnam
T: +84 (0)4 6680 9124

CAFÉS

Cong Caphe (Ba Dinh District)
Cafe on Dien Bien Phu with funky art and a refreshing yoghurt coffee on ice.
Address: 32 Điện Biên Phủ, Hanoi
T: +84 (0)4 2247 0602

Manzi (photo courtesy of Hanoi Grapevine)

Manzi (Ba Dinh District)
Restored colonial house that’s been transformed into an independent art space, art shop and cafe.
Address: 14 Phan Huy Ích, Hanoi
T: +84 (0)4 3716 3397
 

CULTURAL CENTERS

Hanoi is home to many cultural centers that frequently host exhibitions.  Although it might sound strange to go to your home country's cultural institute while traveling in Vietnam, we recommend checking out what the cultural centers are up to as the exhibitions often aim to bridge their own culture with Vietnam's. Below are 3 of our favorite cultural centers in Hanoi.

          Goethe Institute Hanoi (photo courtesy of Goethe Institute)

Goethe Institute Hanoi
Address:  56-58 Nguyen Thai Hoc Street, Hanoi, Vietnam
T: +84 (0)4 3734 2251

Japan Foundation
Address: 27 Quang Trung, Hoan Kiem, Hanoi, Vietnam
T: +84 (0)4 3944 7419

Yayoi Kusama Exhibition at the Japan Foundation (June 2013)

Vespa Exhibition at Casa Italia (August 2013)

Casa Italia
Address: 86 Le Loi (near the Metropole Hotel), Hanoi, Vietnam
T: +84 (0)8 3824 4286

Globe-Trotting Contributors
Pierre-Emmanuel Mol, Sara Lehman, Marie-Adélaïde Mol, Rafael Fernández

Pem + Sara

Marie-Adelaide + Rafael