A Day in Teshima

We found out about Teshima while visiting the Chichu Art Museum in Naoshima, where we came across photos of the Teshima Art Museum and other art installations on the island.  Our itinerary was very tight and we only had a day left in Naoshima but with the help of a very friendly receptionist at the Benesse House, we devised a plan to make a small detour via Teshima before heading to our next destination – Kobe.  Teshima is amazing and if you’re planning to go all the way to Naoshima, we really recommend adding a day in Teshima to your itinerary.

WHAT TO SEE AND VISIT

Teshima Art Musueum (photo courtesy of Iwan Baan)

Teshima Art Museum
The crown jewel of Teshima, this museum is one of the most extraordinary pieces of contemporary architecture in the world.  The Teshima Art Museum is the product of a collaboration between architect Ryue Nishizawa and artist Rei Naito.  As you approach the museum site, you will be drawn into an intriguing organic shaped structure that hugs the landscape around it.  In its interior, an incredible vaulted space will absorb you into a silent experience of reflection and contemplation of water droplets gliding through the concrete surface.  You can’t miss this architectural wonder.  [MAP]

Les Archives du Coeur (photo courtesy of Yasuhide Kuge)

Les Archives du Coeur
Located on the east end of Teshima,  Les Archives du Coeur (“Heart Archives") by French artist Christian Boltanski is an art installation dedicated to record and archive the heartbeats of all its visitors.  After recording your heartbeat, you will enter a chamber where the recorded heartbeats (including yours if you choose to) will be the focus of an incredible audio-visual installation.  A truly out-of-body experience!  [MAP]

Due to our tight schedule, we could only visit a few installations but you can find out about other art sites on Teshima via the Art Setouchi website. 

Note: some of the artworks such as Tom Na H-iu by Mariko Mori and Distant Memory by Chiharu Shiota’s are closed during winter (from mid-November to end of March).

WHERE TO HAVE A COFFEE (OR TEA)

Café Il Vento
What appears to be a traditional Japanese house on the outside, is in fact a café with a psychedelic décor in the inside.  The artwork/café, also called Was du liebst, bring dich auch zum weinen  (“what you love, will also make you cry” in German), was designed by German artist Tobias Rehberger.  A great spot to have coffee and delicious home-made cakes after exploring the island!

Café Il Vento / Was du liebst, bring dich auch zum weinen

Teshima Art Museum Café (photo courtesy of Wallpaper*)

Teshima Art Museum Café
Designed by architect Ryue Nishizawa, the café is like a droplet of the Art Museum, very minimalist and zen. Try out their rice balls or their delicious donuts made with rice grown in the rice terraces of Teshima.

HOW TO GET THERE

From/To Naoshima
There is a ferry boat that runs between Miyanoura Port in Naoshima and Ieura Port in Teshima.   The boat ride takes approximately 20 minutes and costs 600 yen/person.
[Naoshima/Teshima Ferry Timetables]

From/To Uno Port
The ferry boat from/to Uno Port makes stops at both Ieura Port and Karato Port in Teshima.  The boat ride takes from 40 minutes (to Ieura) to an hour (to Karato), and costs between 750 and 1000 yen. 
[Uno/Teshima Ferry Timetables]

Teshima Passenger Ferry Boat

Note:  You can find additional information on how to get to Teshima on the Japan-Guide site.
 

HOW TO GET AROUND TESHIMA

Teshima Local Bus (photo courtesy of Japan-Guide)

The day we went to Naoshima was rainy so we got around by local bus (200 yen/ride) and by walk.  However, if you’re there on a sunny day, another option is to rent a bike so you can explore the island on your own schedule (the local bus doesn’t come by very often).

Note: The Art Setouchi website recommends renting pedelecs (power assisted bicycles) due to the steep hills in some parts of the island.  Bicycles can be rented on the South Side of the Ieura port terminal building from 9:00-16:00 (1,000 yen for 4 hours; 100 yen every additional hour; 40 pedelecs.  Closed on Tuesday, or on Wednesday if Tuesday is a national holiday).


OTHER USEFUL TIPS 

Baggage Check
If you’re visiting Teshima on the go (with your luggage), there is a baggage check service (300 yen/bag) at the Ieura Port Ferry Terminal, from 8:30am to 5pm.  We used the baggage check service and it was great!
 

Globe-Trotting Contributors
Marie-Adélaïde Mol and Rafael Fernández