Exploring Naoshima

Naoshima is one of the most amazing places we've ever visited. After an epic journey by air, land and sea, arriving in Naoshima was like landing in an oasis of nature and culture. If you’re into architecture, art, philosophy, and want to get off the usual tourist track in Japan, then Naoshima is for you.  The trip can be long and arduous but the journey to get there is part of the experience.  If you can, we recommend staying at least 3 full days so you can also explore Naoshima's sister islands, Teshima and Inujima.

WHAT TO SEE AND VISIT

Lee Ufan Museum

Lee Ufan Museum
We arrived at the museum on a late morning, after getting dropped off by the Benesse House shuttle bus that stops at the different art sites on the island. Perhaps a prelude to the Chichu Art Museum, the Lee Ufan Museum can be found nestled in the hills between the Benesse House Museum and the Chichu Art Museum. This pavilion-size structure gives you a preview of Tadao Ando ’s ideas for the island's buildings as spaces of retreat and reflection.

Chichu Art Museum (photo courtesy of Iwan Baan)

Chichu Art Museum
A short walk from Lee Ufan, the Chichu Art Museum is the crownpiece of Naoshima Island. Also designed by Tadao Ando, the museum leads its visitors through a journey of art installations by Claude Monet, James Turrell and Walter de Maria.
What makes Chichu truly unique is that the museum was carefully designed by Ando to best exhibit the artworks. Each art installation was beyond our imagination and we were mesmerized by the perfect harmony between the space and the artworks. Exploring the museum is an exterior-interior experience realized by Ando through his masterful use of light and concrete.   The truth is that words don’t do justice to this place, and you have to go there to see and experience this one of a kind museum and architectural masterpiece. 

Art House Project (photo courtesy of Benesse House)

Art House Project
The Art House Project consists of a series of 1- or 2-storey traditional Japanese houses scattered among Honmura District, Naoshima’s main residential area. Stepping inside the traditional houses, you'll discover incredible modern art installations.

Start at Honmura Lounge & Archive where you can get your ticket (we recommend the option that gives you access to all the houses) and a small map to navigate the labyrinth of streets of Honmura. While visiting the Art House Project, we met a really cool couple of Columbia University Law Professors with whom we explored the different houses and art installations.  It was a blast!
 

Ando Museum (photo courtesy of Benesse House)

Ando Museum
The Ando Museum is a great little museum that showcases Tadao Ando’s work as an architect, including hand-drawn sketches and models.  The museum is located in a traditional Japanese house, across from the Minamidera Art House. Definitely worth visiting if you want to learn more about the architect behind most of the buildings found on the Benesse Art Site. 

Yayoi Kusama's Yellow Pumpkin

Yayoi Kusama’s Pumpkins
There are two of Yayoi Kusama’s Pumpkins on Naoshima: the Red Pumpkin is at the Naoshima Ferry Terminal in the Miyanoura Area, and the Yellow Pumpkin is near the Benesse House Park.  They are staples of Naoshima and nice spots to take photos!

Check out the Benesse House official website for additional information on the Art Site, and the Naoshima Travel Guide for additional sights and activities on the island.

WHERE TO STAY

Benesse House Oval (photo courtesy of Iwan Baan)

Hotel Benesse House
The Hotel Benesse House is divided into three parts: the Park, the Beach and the Museum, which includes the Oval.  The hotel is architecturally exquisite,  every piece of furniture is well crafted and every detail has been well thought-out. We stayed at the Park and found it amazing, as our room was overlooking a garden of sculptures (a bit like Charles Trenet’s Jardin Extraordinaire!).  Yet, we were left wondering about the Oval, which is connected to the museum and is only accessible to hotel guests via monorail.  It was one of the best hotels we ever stayed at, and even though the rooms are pricey, we really recommend staying at the Benesse House.
Important Tip: make reservations well ahead of time because there are limited availabilities, especially at the Oval!

Check out the Naoshima Travel Guide for additional (and cheaper) accommodations on the island.
 

WHERE TO EAT

Issen Restaurant (photo courtesy of Iwan Baan)

Museum Restaurant Issen
Issen is located inside the Benesse House Museum.  To arrive at the restaurant, we walked across the museum until we reached one of the main galleries.  The setting was incredible, the service was excellent, and the food included a variety of Japanese traditional dishes that were both delicious and beautifully served.  After dinner, we were able to visit the museum in complete peacefulness. Note: you have to make a reservation.

HOW TO GET THERE

On our way to Naoshima on the JR Uno Line

There are several ways to get to Naoshima. In our case, we were traveling from Singapore and decided to go to Naoshima straight from Narita Airport (may sound crazy but totally doable thanks to Japan's amazing railway system).  A great tip we received at Narita was to transfer from the Narita Express to a Shinkansen (bullet train) at Shinagawa Station, which is a smaller train station and therefore easier to navigate than Tokyo Station.  From Shinagawa, we took a Nozomi Shinkansen (the fastest train category) to Okayama, where we switched to the JR Seto Ohashi Line from Okayama Station to Chayamachi Station.  At Chayamachi, we transferred to the JR Uno Line that took us to Uno Port.  We then walked from Uno Port Station to the ferry dock, which are a few meters away from each other.  Finally, we took the ferry to Naoshima.  When we arrived in Naoshima, the Benesse House shuttle bus (free for hotel guests) was waiting for us at the Ferry Terminal and took us to the Hotel Benesse House. 

Note: the best thing about traveling by train - aside from the mind-blowing efficiency of the Japanese railway system - is that you get to see the country.  As we approached Uno port, the landscape really changed to a more rural scenery.  On the trains from Okayama to Uno Port, we were the only none-Japanese passengers, traveling alongside commuters and children coming home from school. When we were lost, people helped us find our way and made sure we didn't miss our stop at Chayamachi to transfer the Uno Line.  It's a great way to interact with locals and see the less traveled parts of Japan!

Below is a summary of our itinerary from Narita Airport to Naoshima:

Narita Airport
Narita Express
|
Shinagawa Station
Transfer to Nozomi Shinkansen
|
Okayama Station
Transfer to JR Seto Ohashi Line
|
Chayamachi Station
Transfer to JR Uno Line
|
Uno Port Station
Transfer to Ferry Passenger Boat
|
Naoshima
Total travel time: approx. 8 hours

Additional directions can be found on the Benesse House website. We also discovered an alternative route by boat from Awaji Island to Naoshima, which is part of a two day tour of Awaji and Naoshima offered by Awaji Yume Tours.

Arriving at the Naoshima Ferry Terminal

Globe-Trotting Contributors: Marie-Adélaïde Mol and Rafael Fernández, with the help of Mary Seto, our globe-trotting friend from Japan, living in Panama City