Bangkok Insider

WHAT TO SEE AND VISIT

Reclining Buddha at Wat Pho

Recommended Tour (if you only have a day in Bangkok)

Start your day at the Mandarin Oriental Hotel to see its old colonial house and then board the river taxi to venture north on the Chao Phraya river.

Get off the water taxi to see the Wat Pho temple, Wat Phra Kaew (Emerald Buddha) and the Grand Palace grounds.

Warning: scam operators have been known to target tourists trying to see these sights. A very friendly Thai (some are friendlier than others!) will approach you to tell you the [Grand Palace, Emerald Buddha, etc.] is closed for a special holiday or closed until the afternoon, and try to divert you by "helping" you get a cheap tuk-tuk. Visitors should always approach a tourist police or preferably, the main entrance of these sites first to inquire.

After all the sightseeing, reward yourself with a sunset drink at The Deck (more info below), which has a rooftop offering amazing sunset views of Wat Arun (Temple of Dawn). Really beautiful view but try to get there in advance of sunset since you will not be alone, for sure!

End the day taking a tuk tuk over to Khao San Rd. It is the main backpacker street and although not significant to Thai history, it's an interesting street to see nonetheless, and it's always a happening place with all the pubs and restaurants.
















Other places to visit 

Jim Thompson House
Amazing collection of Thai antiques and house of the creator of Jim Thompson silk business.  The house is architecturally and culturally fascinating, and the cherry on top is the mystery surrounding Jim Thompson's disappearance. He used to be a former CIA agent before starting his silk company, and one day while hiking in Malaysia in the 1970s, he completely disappeared. Not a trace. This house is his legacy. Also, check out the Jim Thompson store, which has a lot of beautiful gifts to bring back for the family.
Address: 6 Soi Kasemsan 2, Rama 1 Road, Bangkok, 10400, Thailand
Skytrain Stop: National Stadium Station

Chatuchak Weekend Market
If you are in Bangkok on the weekend, check out Chatuchak Market early in the morning. It gets very crowded during the day. It's a great place to buy gifts and just see the busiest market in Bangkok.
SkyTrain Stop: Mochit Station 
MRT Stop: Kamphaenpetch Station

Chinatown or Little India
Both Chinese and Indians are prevalent in Thai history and culture, and these communities are vibrant. These neighborhoods are definitely worth checking out.

Floating Market

Floating Market
The floating market is actually outside of Bangkok and maybe will help you see why Bangkok used to be called the Venice of the East! It requires waking up very early (2-4 am!) and taking a hired taxi or public bus to the floating market. Great photo ops.










WHERE TO EAT

Supatra River House
Delicious Thai restaurant located on the Chao Phraya river bank. Their tom kha kai is incredible!
Address: 266 Soi Wat Rakhang, Siriraj, Bangkok Noi, Bangkok 10700, Thailand
Water Taxi Stop: Tha Chang Wang Lang Pier
 

WHERE TO GO FOR DRINKS

View of Wat Arun from The Deck

The Deck
After all the sightseeing, reward yourself with a sunset drink at The Deck, which has a rooftop offering amazing views of sunset with Wat Arun (Temple of the Dawn). Really beautiful but try to get there in advance of sunset since you will not be alone, for sure!
Address:  36-38 Soi Pratoo Nok Yoong, Maharat Road, Rattanakosin Island, Bangkok, 10200, Thailand
Water Taxi Stop: Tatien Pier

Sirocco
If you are looking for a grande finale, check out Sirocco, atop the Lebua, where the opening scene of Hangover 2 was filmed.  The view of Bangkok is amazing and it's a fantastic place for a drink on your final night in Bangkok. 
Tip: if the main bar is too crowded, snap a few photos of the view and go to the side bar for a drink.
Address: 1055 Silom Road, Bangrak, Bangkok, 10500, Thailand
BTS/Water Taxi Stop: Saphan Thaksin Station/Central Pier (5-10 min walk to Lebua)

                           Panoramic view from Sirocco (photo courtesy of Jeffrey Chua)

WHERE TO GO OUT 

Silom and Patpong are the mainstays of Bangkok nightlife. Though Patpong is seedier than Silom, it might just be worth checking out for a view into a different, darker side of Bangkok.  Soi 11 also has nightlife for all tastes and budgets. There's Above 11 at Fraser Suites for some hi-so fusion tapas with an incredible view of the city, or there are street-side bars serving cheap drinks from a tricked-out Volkswagen van - and everything in between! 

Above 11 Rooftop Bar
Address: 33 rd floor of the Fraser Suites Sukhumvit @ 38/8 Sukhumvit Soi 11, Klong Toey Nua, Wattana, Bangkok 10110, Thailand
BTS Stop: Nana station

WHERE TO STAY

Riva Surya Bangkok Hotel
Riva Surya is a small boutique hotel near the Old City. Overlooking the river, the hotel nicely blends modern and traditional Thai architecture. It's a great to place to stay if you wish to spend time in the historical part of Bangkok. And to go to the City Center, just hop in a Water Taxi from the Phra Arthit Pier located a few steps away from the hotel. 
Address: 23 Phra Arthit Road, Pranakorn, Bangkok, 10200, Thailand
Water Taxi Stop: Phra Arthit Pier

WHERE TO SHOP

Terminal 21 Mall
The newest mall in Bangkok, themed around an airport. It is an interesting look into the contemporary Thai cultural past-time - shopping! 
Address: 2,88 Sukhumvit Soi 19, Sukhumvit Rd, North Khlong Toei, Wattana, Bangkok 10110, Thailand
BTS Stop: Asok Station

WHERE TO GET TAILOR-MADE SHIRTS

Larry's Fashion (photo courtesy of Dolma Photography)

Larry's Fashion
Bangkok is known for its tailors and there are many to choose from but we recommend Larry. He is fast, reliable and his shop is centrally located near the Phrom Phong Skytrain station.
Address: 105 Sukhumvit Soi 22, Sukhumvit Rd, Khlong Toei, Sukhumvit, Bangkok,10110, Thailand
BTS Stop: Phrom Phong Station
 

WHERE TO GET A MASSAGE

Urban Retreat Spa
Massage parlors abound in Bangkok but some of them can be a bit sketchy.  We recommend Urban Retreat, a clean, pleasant and affordable spa.  They have two convenient locations, which you you can choose from depending where you are staying.
Open Daily from 10 am to 10 pm.
BTS Phrom Phong Branch: +66 (0) 2204 1042-3
BTS Asoke Branch: +66 (0) 2229 4701-3


HOW TO GET AROUND

Tuk Tuk (photo courtesy of Dolma Photography)

Sky Trains (BTS) and Subway (MRT)
Bangkok is known for its traffic jams so we recommend using the sky trains (BTS) and Bangkok's subway (MRT) as much as you can. The MRT connects to the BTS at Asok station. Day Passes are available for 130 Bhat.

Water Taxi (Chao Phraya Express Boats)
Another great way to beat the traffic - and to get a different view of Bangkok - is to navigate the city with Water Taxis.  The Water Taxis make stops on both sides of the Chao Phraya river.  You can transfer to the BTS (Sky Train) at Central Pier / Saphan Thaksin.

Tuk Tuk
You shouldn't leave Bangkok without taking a Tuk Tuk at least once.  You will most likely be over-charged for the ride and can bargain with the driver but you might want to let it go and consider it part of the Bangkok experience.

Globe-Trotting Contributors
Pierre-Emmanuel Mol & Sara Lehman, currently living in Bangkok
and formerly in Hanoi.  Check out their blog The Lotus & The Frog!

Coming Soon...

B A N G K O K !

Hanoi 's Up and Coming Art Scene

Hanoi's Art scene is booming and art spaces as well as artsy bars and cafés are sprouting throughout the city.  Below are a few of our favorites.  We also recommend checking out Hanoi Grapevine and Word Hanoi for cool events and exhibits.

BARS

Bar Betta (Ba Dinh District)
Old Hollywood-themed bar on Cao Ba Quat Street with a great rooftop to sip a margarita after touring nearby Fine Arts Museum, HCM Mausoleum or Temple of Literature.
Address: 34C Cao Ba Quat, Ba Dinh, Hanoi, Vietnam
T: +84 165 897 9073

21 North (Tay Ho/West Lake)
New hip art space and bar directly facing the lake with outdoor seating to sip on some Ricard (zee-ka, in Vietnamese) at sunset.
Address: 49 Duong Ven Ho Tay
T: +84 (0)9 4670 8286

Tadioto (Hoan Kiem District)
Artsy bar and alternative art space near the Opera House. Perfect to relax with a book and a coffee by day, or with a drink after a long week. We recommend their passion fruit margaritas!
Address: 24B Tong Dan, Hanoi, Vietnam
T: +84 (0)4 6680 9124

CAFÉS

Cong Caphe (Ba Dinh District)
Cafe on Dien Bien Phu with funky art and a refreshing yoghurt coffee on ice.
Address: 32 Điện Biên Phủ, Hanoi
T: +84 (0)4 2247 0602

Manzi (photo courtesy of Hanoi Grapevine)

Manzi (Ba Dinh District)
Restored colonial house that’s been transformed into an independent art space, art shop and cafe.
Address: 14 Phan Huy Ích, Hanoi
T: +84 (0)4 3716 3397
 

CULTURAL CENTERS

Hanoi is home to many cultural centers that frequently host exhibitions.  Although it might sound strange to go to your home country's cultural institute while traveling in Vietnam, we recommend checking out what the cultural centers are up to as the exhibitions often aim to bridge their own culture with Vietnam's. Below are 3 of our favorite cultural centers in Hanoi.

          Goethe Institute Hanoi (photo courtesy of Goethe Institute)

Goethe Institute Hanoi
Address:  56-58 Nguyen Thai Hoc Street, Hanoi, Vietnam
T: +84 (0)4 3734 2251

Japan Foundation
Address: 27 Quang Trung, Hoan Kiem, Hanoi, Vietnam
T: +84 (0)4 3944 7419

Yayoi Kusama Exhibition at the Japan Foundation (June 2013)

Vespa Exhibition at Casa Italia (August 2013)

Casa Italia
Address: 86 Le Loi (near the Metropole Hotel), Hanoi, Vietnam
T: +84 (0)8 3824 4286

Globe-Trotting Contributors
Pierre-Emmanuel Mol, Sara Lehman, Marie-Adélaïde Mol, Rafael Fernández

Pem + Sara

Marie-Adelaide + Rafael

Hanoi On and Off the Tourist Circuit

If you enjoy history and architecture, you will love Hanoi!  We traveled to Hanoi twice while living in Singapore, and were lucky to be shown around by two globe-trotters, Pem and Sara, who lived in Hanoi at the time.  They took us to some of their favorite local spots, including restaurants, cafes and bars around town.  There is a lot to do in Hanoi so make sure you have at least 2 to 3 days to explore the city.  Also check out our post on Hanoi's Up and Coming Art Scene!

WHAT TO SEE AND VISIT

Temple of Literature (Dong Da District)
Travel back in time at the Temple of Literature, home to Vietnam's first national university (established in 1076).  You can then have lunch at KOTO Restaurant (more info below), located right next to the Temple of Literature on Van Mieu street.
 

Temple of Literature

Hai Ba Trung Temple (Hai Ba Trung District)
Visit this small Buddhist temple dedicated to the Trung Sisters.  The temple is tucked away from the busy streets of Hanoi and a bit less touristy.

Hoan Kiem Lake (Hoan Kiem District)
Walk along Hoan Kiem Lake and visit the red-painted Huc Bridge.  Then go to City View Café and enjoy the view while having a fresh juice or local beer.


City View Café
Address: Han Viet Tower, 6th Floor, 203 Minh Khai St., Hai Ba Trung, Hanoi
T: +84 (0)4 2215 5768

 Huc Bridge (photo courtesy of Dolma Photography)

Sights of Hanoi's bustling streets from the City View Cafe

Hoa Lo Prison or "Hanoi Hilton" (photo courtesy of Dolma Photography)

Hoa Lo Prison, aka Maison Centrale
Prisons usually aren't at the top of our list of recommendations but in the case of Hanoi, Hoa Lo Prison is a must see.  You'll even get to see what are said to be John McCain's Vietnam War fatigues.

Uncle Ho (Chi Minh)'s Mausoleum
You have to get there early to visit the mausoleum and see Ho Chi Minh's embalmed body. The museum isn't a must, mostly in Vietnamese too...

The above are the general sights you'll read about in guides.  You can skip the water puppet show, at least the one in Hanoi - although it may be worth seeing one in a smaller village depending where you are traveling.
 

WHERE TO EAT

KOTO (Dong Da District - near Temple of Literature) 
Not-for-profit training restaurant that teaches Vietnamese youngsters from disadvantaged backgrounds to cook and serve up some tasty dishes. Try the vegetarian (or non-veg) bun bo nam bo.
Address: 59 Van Mieu Street, Dong Da, Hanoi, Vietnam
T: +84 (0)4 3747 0337  

Pots n’ Pans (Hai Ba Trung District)
Founded by a KOTO graduate, this sleek resto on Mai Hac De does Vietnamese-Western fusion right. Staff are super nice and are usually KOTO graduates too. Buy one, get one free happy hour every day.  Open 11.30am until late, 7 days.
Address: 57 Bui Thi Xuan Street, Hai Ba Trung, Hanoi, Vietnam
T: +84 (0)4 3944 0204/05

Nang Tam Vegetarian (Hoan Kiem District)
Vietnamese vegetarian in a house just off Tran Hung Dao.  Tofu in tomatoes and grilled aubergine should not be missed.
Address: 79A Tran Hung Dao, Hoan Kiem, Hanoi
T: +84 (0)4 3942 4140

Nga Hang Ngon (Hoan Kiem District)
This restaurant on Tran Hung Dao street serves typical Vietnamese street food done restaurant-style. It occupies two renovated colonial-style houses and open courtyard, and is widely popular with vietnamese and foreigners.
Address: 18 Phan Boi Chau, Hoan Kiem, Hanoi, Vietnam
T: + 84 (0)4 3942 8162/63

Puku (Hoan Kiem District)
Irish nachos, free wifi and great coffee drinks can be enjoyed here.  Open 24 hours.
Address: 16/18 Tong Duy Tan, Hoan Kiem, Hanoi, Vietnam
T: +84 (0)4 3928 5244 

New Day Restaurant (Old Quarter/North of Hoan Kiem Lake)
Good local cuisine without the hazards of street food.
Address: 72 Ma May, Hanoi, Vietnam
T: +84 (0)4 3828 0315

Green Tangerine (Old Quarter/Hoan Kiem District)
Innovative and elevated Vietnamese-French fusion in a beautifully restored french villa on Hang Be Street.
Address: 48 Hang Be, Hoan Kiem, Hanoi, Vietnam
T: +84 (0)4 3825 1286

La Restaurant (Old Quarter/Hoan Kiem District)
Located near St. Joseph’s Cathedral, a place to enjoy well-done Vietnamese favorites in a relaxed setting. Incredible potato and gouda soup.
Address: 25 Ly Quoc S, Hoan Kiem, Hanoi, Vietnam
T: +84 (0)4 3928 8933

Namaste Hanoi (Old Quarter/Hoan Kiem District)
Tasty offerings of both North and South Indian cuisine in veg and non-veg varieties. Crispy dosas that are bigger than your head.
Address: 46 Tho Nhuom St, Hoan Kiem, Hanoi, Vietnam
T: +84 (0)4 3935 2400 

Tamarind Vegetarian (Old Quarter/Hoan Kiem District)
Backpacker-type restaurant with vegetarian creations with interesting names such as veggie towers of babel or veggie coffin. Travel agency in the back.
Address: 80 Ma May, Hoan Kiem, Hanoi, Vietnam
T: +84 (0)4 3926 1296
 

WHERE TO HAVE COFFEE

Whipped Egg Coffee at Hanoi Social Club (photo courtesy of Dolma Photography)

Hanoi Social Club (Hoan Kiem District)
Very cool spot with a bohemian vibe.  A steamy cappuccino with their sticky toffee pudding hits the spot. Also a great place to try the uniquely Vietnamese cà phê trứng, coffee with whipped egg.
Address: 6 Hoi Vu, Hoan Kiem, Hanoi, Vietnam
T: +84 (0)4 3938 2117

Marilyn (Hoan Kiem District)
Resto-cafe with a rooftop overlooking St. Joseph’s Cathedral.  Their fresh fruit smoothies are refreshing after a walk around the old quarter.
Address: 04 Au Trieu, Hoan Kiem, Hanoi, Vietnam

Joma Bakery Café (Hoan Kiem District)
Bakery cafe of Lao origin with a big space on Ly Quoc Su, near the Cathedral. Great soup, free WIFI and free refills on large americano coffees.  Open every day 7am–9pm.
Address: 22 Ly Quoc Su, Hoan Kiem, Hanoi, Vietnam
T: +84 (0)4 3938 1619

    Kinh Do Café (photo courtesy of Dolma Photography)

Kinh Do Cafe (Hoan Kiem District) 
Great spot for breakfast. Catherine Deneuve was a regular while filming Indochine.
Address: 252 Hang Bong, Hoan Kiem, Vietnam
T: +84 4 3825 0216

Saint-Honoré Bakery (Hai Ba Trung District)
In the shadow of Vincom Towers, this French-inspired cafe offers dozens of different pastries, breads, and mouthwatering tarts.  Good for lunch when you are craving a cheesy, well-grilled panini.
Address: 31 Thai Phien, Ha Ba Trung, Hanoi, Vietnam
T: +84 (0)4 3974 9483


WHERE TO GO FOR DRINKS

*Ta Hien Street* (Old Quarter)
For evening drinks, go to Ta Hien Street where there are lots of bars and bia hoi's (literally freshly [brewed] beer). Sitting on a tiny plastic stool on the sidewalk is the way to go here! For a sit down place nearby, check out Mao's Red lounge. 

Mao’s Red Lounge (Old Quarter)
Bar on pub street with cheap drinks, good DJ, and a funky ambiance.
Address: 7 Ta Hien, Hanoi, Vietnam
T: +84 (0)4 3926 3104

CAMA ATK (Hai Ba Trung District)
Chill space to enjoy some well-spun tunes and a stiff, handcrafted cocktail.
Open Wednesday – Saturday 6:00pm – midnight.
Address: 73A Mai Hac De, Hanoi, Vietnam

Madake (Tay Ho District)
The new it-place to go to down a few beers and chat up friends both old and new.  Tasty Thai food also made on site.
Address: 81 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Hanoi, Vietnam
T: +84 (0)4 6276 6665
 

WHERE TO SHOP

Tan My Design (Hoan Kiem District)
Beautiful vietnamese-made household items that make great gifts. Nice pieces of jewelry and clothing too.
Address: 61 Hang Gai,, Hanoi, Vietnam
T: +84 (0)4 3938 1154
 

HOW TO GET AROUND (Prices as of January 2014)

By Motorbike
Renting a motorbike is the best way to see the city if you are comfortable with it. You can rent one for the day on Ta Hien Street, in the old quarter where you'll find lots of different stores.  Rental should cost about US$4/5 (i.e. 85K to 105K VND) a day.

By Cab
Cabs are quite inexpensive in general. Depending on how big they are, starting price is usually, 8K/10K/14K VND. Some meters do go faster than others, so in general I recommend taking the Mai Linh company (white and green cabs).  A cab from Noibai Airport in Hanoi to Downtown Hanoi should cost around 350K VND. Ask for 300K and settle for 350K - that's actually the price. If you arrive late at night and there are fewer cabs, they may get greedier.  That happened to us at 1am on a Monday, we paid 500K VND.
 

Globe-Trotting Contributors
Pierre-Emmanuel Mol, Sara Lehman, Marie-Adélaïde Mol, Rafael Fernández

Pem + Sara

Marie-Adelaide + Rafael

The Prep Guide to West Africa

A trip to West Africa requires a lot of preparation and planning, even if you decide to have a loose itinerary. First and foremost, take the time to look up the embassy or consulate's websites to figure out if you need a visa and/or vaccines for the country/ies you are visiting. Once you're on the ground, you'll realize pretty quickly that things don't work like in Europe or the US, especially when it comes to transportation and border crossings. Hopefully, the below tips will come in handy before and during your trip.

TRIP PLANNING

Plane Tickets

• Plane tickets to Africa can be very expensive so look into airfare as early as possible
• The search engine Vayama offers good rates and offers for plane tickets to Africa

Visas

• Double check if you need a visa before you enter the country/ies you are visiting; you will find the information on the country's embassy or consulate's website
• If you need a visa, make sure you apply ahead of time; it usually takes 5 to 10 business days to get it done (you can expedite your request but there will be an extra fee)

Vaccines

• Make sure your vaccines are up to date!
• The Yellow Fever* vaccine is mandatory for most West African countries. You will receive a yellow card that you must keep with you during your travels. In some cases, a copy of your yellow card is required for your visa application so don't wait until the last minute to get the vaccine.
• I also recommend getting vaccines for Tetanus and Typhoid*, as well as Hepatitis A* and B (if you didn't get them already).

* Yellow Fever, Typhoid and Hepatitis A are usually not covered by US insurance companies. Each vaccine costs between $150 and $190 so make sure you include them in your budget.

What to Bring

• A backpack is preferred if you'll be on the road (Osprey makes great ergonomic backpacks; they can be a little pricey but well worth the investment)
• Flip flops (for the beach and everyday use)
• If you plan on hiking, sneakers or hiking shoes (low-rise waterproof Merrell hiking shoes are great and not too heavy)
• Light weight close shoes such as espadrilles or TOMS (if you don't want to wear open shoes when traveling)
• At least 1 t-shirt or tank top per day, plus 1 or 2 extra ones if you have space (it's nice to have a change of clothes after a long day of traveling in the heat)
• One light long sleeved shirt (good to have when there is AC)
• A pair of light pants
• One or two pairs of shorts
• Small towel (cheaper hotels don't always provide towels)
• Flash light (very handy when power goes off)
• Sun tan lotion (even if the sky looks cloudy, the sun isn't far away)
• Bug spray with high DEET concentration (put on bug spray every day, starting at dusk and reapply before going to bed)
• If possible, try to get a MozStop (for sale on KLM flights); it looks like a gadget but it works!

In full globe-trotting backpacker gear

ON THE GROUND

Sanitation

• Do not drink water from faucets and avoid ice cubes. Only drink bottled water and make sure that the bottles are well sealed.

Currency

• Make sure you know what the local currency of the country is, and look up what the average cost per day is so you know how much to budget
• It also helps to know the exchange rates so you have a rough idea of how much you will be getting when exchanging money (that will prevent you from getting ripped off if you change money on the black market, especially at the borders)
• The local airport usually offers the best exchange rates so make sure you have cash to exchange when you arrive in the country (plus will need local money to pay for a taxi).

Transportation

• Always set the price before you get in a taxi, whether private or shared (there are no meters and drivers will always try to rip you off if you wait until you arrive at your destination)
• If you look for a taxi or mini-bus, try to speak with the driver directly (unless someone you trust offers you to negotiate for you), otherwise you might have to pay an additional "booking fee" (i.e. a made up excuse to ask for more money)
• When traveling by road, always add 1h to the estimated travel time indicated in your guide book. There is a lot of traffic - especially in big cities - and the roads are usually in bad condition, both of which will delay your trip.

Filling-up the tank

Border Crossings

• Be patient! Immigration can be long and painful so expect to spend at least 30 minutes at the border, filling out paperwork and getting your passport stamped
• If you're traveling between countries with different currencies, you will have to pay for your visa in the currency of the country you are traveling to. You can exchange money on the black market at the border but they'll rip you off so make sure you have a rough idea of what the exchange rates are; it will help you to negotiate and get the best possible rate.
• If your passport and visas are in order, you should be able to go through immigration without any problem. However, if you do not have the right visa, be prepared to run into difficulties and long-winded negotiations.

Togo-Benin border